[Eddies]

Had a bash at it today and really liked it.

The sequence I used was: reach up L/H from jug to small but good hold, shuffle feet about and with R/H go to gaston the top of crack in the groove. I held this a couple of times but was very hard to see my feet and where to put them!?
Any ideas?

Also can anyone tell me about the sneaky shortcut?

[BenF]

I get the big jug, get my lefthand in a small crimp, walk my left foot up under the roof, swing my right heel up onto the good holds right of the big jug (under the groove to the right), move my righthand up to a crimp on the same level as the lefthand, push my weight right over the rightheel, go up with righthand to a tiny crimp below the break, keep rocking over the right heel and snatch yet again with the righthand into the good pocketed break.  From there its easy just to bring the left foot onto the jug and match the top break.

A really good problem with a range of sitstart alternatives - direct, from the right and from over on the left under Simple Simon.

[dave]

Had a bash at it today and really liked it.

The sequence I used was: reach up L/H from jug to small but good hold, shuffle feet about and with R/H go to gaston the top of crack in the groove. I held this a couple of times but was very hard to see my feet and where to put them!?
Any ideas?

Also can anyone tell me about the sneaky shortcut?

sounds like you're on the right track - i think we did as you say then somehow got left foot up on the lip or jug, and went with left hand for that good incut hold. or scouse matched the backhand flake, turned it into a full-on undercut and went left thereafter:



i'm sure theres old threads about this too if you search.

[mini]

sounds like you're on the right track - i think we did as you say then somehow got left foot up on the lip or jug, and went with left hand for that good incut hold. or scouse matched the backhand flake, turned it into a full-on undercut and went left thereafter:

Whats with this going left and crimps business.

Okay, get in the position as per the above photo. While matcing the undercut a shown walk ya feet up and reach up for the sloping break above. Job done.

[Eddies]

I did look for previous threads on this prob but it seem i didnt look hard enough http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5959.0.html
Think im on the right path, I just need to stick at it.

[BenF]

Whats with this going left and crimps business.

   That's how everyone I've been there with has done the problem presumed to be Fingers.

Isn't following the flake a different problem (Johnny Utah, 7b)?  Starts on the easy problem and follows the flake leftwards to a big stretch up to the far away break.  All a bit squeezed in but I would have thought there was room for two lines given that there are two sets of holds that climb independently.   

[dave]

we've had this discussion before i'm sure - fingers is the start to a route, thus will be using everything in reach, and I doubt when the route was first done the ascentionist will have thought "i'll avoid that obvious and useful flake and instead do some harder moves on crimps so that when, in 20 years time, bouldering becomes popular and someone invents some kind of foam-based portable landing surface, and artificially keeping problems independant is in vogue, they will invent a problem which uses that flake coming in from the right".

[mini]

And seeing as the route goes directly above the flake and is the easiest way up........

[BenF]

 

Fair play on the ripostes (I guess I sounded like a bit of a twat) and I do now remember being here before, but that's how I climb Fingers and I think it's easier and more enjoyable that way.  And fuck it, there's room for two lines (acknowledging Dave's fair comments about the original ascent) there anyway.  However, I promise that's my last word on the matter.