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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 268618 times)

mofo

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#600 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 15, 2023, 09:06:51 am
I cleaned up Untoward at Black Rocks a few weeks back.
Took a couple of sessions as it was so minging. Very good compression style boulder problem above bomber gear.
Go get it.

Bonjoy

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#601 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 15, 2023, 09:55:16 am
Good work. Good route isn't it. I did it in 2011 (also took a bit of cleaning back then). Which side of the arete did you finish up? I ended up on the rhs at the top.

mofo

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#602 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
March 15, 2023, 01:46:03 pm
Great route. I also headed up and right by turning the arete. Seemed the easiest way although dropping it on that last move would be a big grim lob. It looks like another party ticked it on ukc and they may have headed up and left judging by the extra cleaning and chalk.

Teaboy

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#603 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 29, 2023, 10:49:35 am
Louis Wilder on Upper Wrysagn got a good brush yesterday. Deserves attention, is brilliant with the lower hard bit well protected, the upper bit is a bit more wiggy but not as hard; the perfect balance. Absolutely super classic. Cuchulainn was also brushed but not climbed (needs some 5/6mm cord to replace thread) and Wall of Ghouls was climbed but not brushed. Genuine quality routes up there.

SamT

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#604 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 29, 2023, 05:57:39 pm
Nowt to do with me but  a load of routes at Tintwhistle have been cleaned up.

Fiend

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#605 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 29, 2023, 07:54:17 pm
I've heard about that too. Definitely sounds like people should cheque them out.

SamT

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#606 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2023, 09:51:25 am

Yes, indeed, I mike head out there next week.

T_B

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#607 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 09, 2023, 10:58:44 am
Dharma. Clean and probably as dry as it’s ever gonna get though it could be a bit hot next wk. Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.

Apart from the crux crimp which would be tricky to hold if it was really hot the rest probably goes even on a warm day.

For future reference realistically it needs cleaned and then left to dry out before returning…

Personally I think it’s worth the effort - classic esoterica.

Hydraulic Man

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#608 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 10, 2023, 05:11:34 pm
Apparently Upping The Ante is almost in nick nearby as well. Surely one of the best quarried grit E5's in Derbyshire?

cheque

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#609 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 10, 2023, 11:53:29 pm
Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.

It’s like a little rainforest in there with its own microclimate. I doubt the temperature rise is going to help it unfortunately. It’s an awesome place  though, looks to have so many routes that would be great if they were in condition.

Bonjoy

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#610 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 08:42:49 am
Get Rich Quick is fantastic and safe. I expect it'll need a reclean by now though. Everything on that wall is worth cleaning up I reckon.

Aussiegav

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#611 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 07:44:12 pm
I took garden shears to Two Tier main wall on the right side today. Cut back all the nettles from Inbetweeners to the right hand end. Also cleaned up the right most route,  Tip Dollar 6a+.
The route needs a belay, which I’d be happy to equip if someone doesn’t mind lending me a drill.
I’d be happy to rebolt the routes to the left as well, Tippers & What a Waste.

spidermonkey09

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#612 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 09:09:14 pm
 Sure Shark can hook you up with the bolt fund drill if you message him. Nice one!

Neil F

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#613 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 09:56:17 pm
I took garden shears to Two Tier main wall on the right side today. Cut back all the nettles….

Nice one Gav, though a bit of ‘nettle beta’ will hopefully be useful:-

Shears probably isn’t the answer, though for a particularly tall crop, shearing them to a foot above the ground might be a useful start point.

Nettles do pull out of the ground fairly readily, if you grasp the stem near its base.  They won’t break off like many plants, and a length of root will come out with the stem.

Obviously you do need leather gloves for this - I always have a pair in my sac for belaying - but this approach will last much longer than shearing.

I pulled all the nettles out around the adit entrance at Smalldale last week, and you couldn’t tell there’d been any nettles there when I went back yesterday.  I’ll try to do some other sections at the base of that wall in the coming days (if I find myself back there). I wish others would do the same, but the lack of summer veg clearance undertaken by the younger generation seems sadly pitiful to me.  I carry a host of cleaning kit in my sac in the summer, including secateurs and a saw.  And I use them….

Last one on nettles: sadly, whilst my approach will give you a decent result for a season, it isn’t the final solution. If you’ve ever attempted to dig out a patch of nettles, you’ll know that the root system - which is bright yellow - is really extensive.  Round up, anyone…  :o

Tony S

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#614 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 10:08:52 pm
…the lack of summer veg clearance undertaken by the younger generation seems sadly pitiful to me. 

Crag cleaning shots do nothing for the Insta profile. Blame the algorithm  ;)

Tony S

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#615 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 10:11:42 pm
Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.

remus

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#616 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 10:34:45 pm
Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.

I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.

Neil F

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#617 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 10:35:15 pm
Cleaned up General Incompetence (known on the other channel as General Dismissal for unknown reasons) at Nettle Buttress, Cheedale last month. Good route.

General Incompetence was the long term project of Dave Lee, aka Chesters (he came from Chesterfield), aka ‘The General’.  Chesters was a brilliant climber and a good mate of mine.  I remember watching him trying the line one day - I might even have a photo buried somewhere gathering dust - and it was really impressive seeing Dave pulling some really challenging moves with the gear well below his feet…

After Chesters moved away and Dougie did the FA, Chris Gore suggested General Dismissal as a potential name, and I suggested General Incompetence. I seem to remember some (Gore?) thought my suggestion was a bit disrespectful, but it was actually a gentle micky take of a good friend and much respected climber. Chesters thought it was funny and certainly wasn’t offended by it.

Bit of 80s Cheedale history for you there…  :)

Neil F

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#618 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 10:37:01 pm

I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.

Crossed posts there, Remus.  I’m afraid you’re wrong…

Tony S

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#619 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 11, 2023, 11:40:28 pm

I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.

Crossed posts there, Remus.  I’m afraid you’re wrong…

Indeed. We’ve been here before:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612

remus

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#620 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 12, 2023, 06:38:31 am

I can't remember the source, but General Dismissal is the correct name. Somewhere along the line GI crept in and it's stuck around for a long time.

Crossed posts there, Remus.  I’m afraid you’re wrong…

Indeed. We’ve been here before:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612

Hahaha, I stand corrected! Thanks both.

Neil F

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#621 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 13, 2023, 07:12:43 am

Indeed. We’ve been here before:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649612.html#msg649612

Christ, that's so spooky  :o  I have absolutely no recollection of posting on that thread, and it was less that 2 years ago... :'(

Mind you, I see Remus was contributing 2 years ago too, and he's (considerably) younger than me  :lol:

remus

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#622 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 14, 2023, 06:37:39 am
Dharma. Clean and probably as dry as it’s ever gonna get though it could be a bit hot next wk. Getting this route in condition is a bit of a mystery as despite so little rain the crag was quite damp on Tuesday evening (humidity levels for Whatstandwell were in the low 60s and it was overcast). Yesterday they were in the upper 50s and it was much brighter.

Apart from the crux crimp which would be tricky to hold if it was really hot the rest probably goes even on a warm day.

For future reference realistically it needs cleaned and then left to dry out before returning…

Personally I think it’s worth the effort - classic esoterica.

Thanks for cleaning this up T_B, had a session on it yesterday and it was in good condition despite the rain on Tuesday. Very hot and sweaty though.

T_B

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#623 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 14, 2023, 08:41:45 am
Nice one. My mate’s itching to get back on it so I might well clean up Get Rich Quick based on Jonboy’s comment above.

El Mocho

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#624 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 14, 2023, 03:29:41 pm
Went and did Great Crack and Dharma today. Both dry - a little moisture on the start of the crack and a couple of the edges on the run out on Dharma seemed a big soapy, but this may always be the case. It was humid, but things were obv climbable.

Nice one Tom on the cleaning.

 

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