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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 223614 times)

T_B

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#575 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2020, 11:10:08 am
That makes sense - really helpful. I actually cleaned a small side pull/undercut at the back of the bulge to the right of the good flat glued edge that you’d clip off. Then was busting off that to the Gaston as you describe it as I couldn’t use that mingin slot/crimp. But then I’m gonna have to reach through to the two finger pocket with my right  :-\

Will Hunt

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#576 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2020, 01:06:54 pm
None of my doing but a few things I've noticed being done over the last couple of weeks.

Dragonslayer at Eavestone.
Also a new route to the right of it called Roots Manuva.

Doomed Oasis and Warriors at Guisecliff.

T_B

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#577 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 04, 2020, 10:39:39 pm
Cleaned the grass + ants out of Tin Drum at Curbar this evening. It’s the seam left of Be Bop Delux. Brilliant micro route/solo (gear after the hard bit so no point putting a rope on). Anyway, it’s as good as anything of that genre. Spicy with a couple of pads, would be fun ground up with a team.

thekettle

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#578 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 10, 2020, 12:24:41 pm
Hollywood Bowl, Giggleswick North:
Superbowl has now got a new lower-off, some new bolts and a second perma-draw in the roof (Thank you Eduardo). This means you can easily strip the top half without having to pull back under the lip, and then strip the first section to the cave separately (lower-offs in the cave).
The new lower-off is about 1m higher than the original, meaning there's a beefy slap to do after turning the lip, right at the end.  Probably 7c/+ now, and a brilliant, improbable route.
Everything else in the bowl is clean and has seen ascents up to Aladdin 8c, except for Whitelock witchery start - this is now normally started up Jorjas Connection at 7b+, or Illywacker at 7c.

Will Hunt

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#579 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 10, 2020, 12:33:40 pm
Not sure when you were in there, John, but the true start of Whitelock is clean and chalked at the moment. Not sure how popular it is though - certainly not the most appealing route in there!

thekettle

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#580 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 10, 2020, 04:40:00 pm
Not sure when you were in there, John, but the true start of Whitelock is clean and chalked at the moment. Not sure how popular it is though - certainly not the most appealing route in there!
I scrubbed it last week, then realised I could hack the lichen off in solid 2 inch thick chunks, but still not locate much rock underneath, so abandoned the cleaning. Saw some folks chalking and trying it on a TR but they abandoned and did the Jorjas start.

remus

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#581 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 15, 2020, 10:01:04 pm
Hollywood Bowl, Giggleswick North:
Superbowl has now got a new lower-off, some new bolts and a second perma-draw in the roof (Thank you Eduardo). This means you can easily strip the top half without having to pull back under the lip, and then strip the first section to the cave separately (lower-offs in the cave).
The new lower-off is about 1m higher than the original, meaning there's a beefy slap to do after turning the lip, right at the end.  Probably 7c/+ now, and a brilliant, improbable route.

Thanks John and everyone else who helped out getting Superbowl cleaned up. I did it on Sunday and it's an incredible route, better than sunset boulevard imo (don't let the slightly dirty start put you off). No idea why it gets 2* in the guide as it's definitive 3* material.

New lower off seems in a sensible spot, the moves to get it clipped are really cool and means you have to have a good sequence sorted through the roof.

SA Chris

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#582 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 10, 2020, 09:35:01 am
Robbie Phillips posted on Facebook Northumberland page they did some cleaning at Ravensheugh;

“Plumb Line” E5
“Billy Biscuit” E5
“The Reiver” F7B+ (E7)
“Dawes Route” F7A+ish (E5)
“Bonneville” F7A
“Underpowered” F7A
“The Plumber” E5 (F6B+??)
“The Magician” F8A

205Chris

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#583 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 10, 2020, 04:23:38 pm
Robbie Phillips posted on Facebook Northumberland page they did some cleaning at Ravensheugh;

“Plumb Line” E5
“Billy Biscuit” E5
“The Reiver” F7B+ (E7)
“Dawes Route” F7A+ish (E5)
“Bonneville” F7A
“Underpowered” F7A
“The Plumber” E5 (F6B+??)
“The Magician” F8A

Reiver is absolutely incredible. Anyone operating at that grade should have it at the top of their to do list.

andy popp

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#584 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 11, 2020, 06:20:51 am
Still disappointed I didn't get on The Reiver on my one visit to Ravensheugh.

“Dawes Route” F7A+ish (E5)

Is this the arete opposite The Reiver? I thought Johnny called it Reivers' Wives (which is genius).
« Last Edit: August 11, 2020, 06:40:13 am by andy popp »

gme

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#585 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 11, 2020, 08:39:28 am
I asked Jonny about this a while ago and he told me it should be called reality cult.
It’s a quality piece of climbing that’s a perfect highball with pads. Not quite as good as reiver but not far off, the hard climbing is lower than Reiver as well.

I added a sit start to it a few years back at 7B+ that’s quality but I didn’t top it out as it was filthy. Best get back up there.

andy popp

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#586 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 11, 2020, 09:26:29 am
I asked Jonny about this a while ago and he told me it should be called reality cult.

I do remember he got some pushback on how appropriate Reivers' Wifes was as a name. He must have changed his mind.

I was there the day he did it and remember thinking it looked very good. I was so lazy that day and didn't get on either route, despite both of them having teams on them.

Anyway, Reivers' Wives (and Reivers' Digest) are both still available for other new routes.

gme

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#587 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 11, 2020, 11:24:29 am
Reivers wives is brilliant given its location.

mrjonathanr

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#588 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 09, 2020, 07:34:31 am
Added some newer tat (and cut off old) to lower offs on Embankment 2, Time For Tea and the tat in the peg on Coventry Street.

Ally Smith

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#589 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 15, 2020, 11:30:11 am
"An Ivory Smile" 7c, at Devil's Gorge has been re-bolted with stainless glue-ins, cleaned, and re-climbed by me. It's a fun route going the full height of the gorge - bouldery low down, then techy balancy climbing to a stamina sapping finish.

Bolts courtesy of the North Wales Bolt Fund.

Conditions tend to be good at the gorge in September - daytime temps not as warm, so you don't get condensation from cold-air trapped in the cave/mine.

mrjonathanr

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#590 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 15, 2020, 06:55:25 pm
Three routes at Chee Tor now have new 11mm static replacing dodgy tat on their lower offs:
Absent Friends, Nostradamus/Rave On and Gulle Gulle Groove.

Thread on Absent Friends needs replacing with small diameter cord/tape.

Kingy

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#591 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 23, 2021, 09:17:00 am
I have scrubbed up Goldcrest on WCJ Cornice. Now all clean and chalked, more traffic will improve it. V hard moves but quality, cool kneebar in the top roof. I can't believe this was graded 7c!

Bonjoy

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#592 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 23, 2021, 09:53:00 am
Nice one. What grade do you reckon is more accurate (i've never been on the route)?

Kingy

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#593 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 23, 2021, 10:09:27 am
I haven't done it yet but found out how to do the hardest bit between the 3rd and 4th bolt after extensive scrubbing of the gunk. This must be about V8 but not sure I'm doing it the right way (high rockover with left toe). Then there is another hard bit to get up to the roof. The start shared with Nasty Man seems like something must have come off. The only way I could find to do it was via a Cypher style kick move after a massive reach off a low undercut in the intial break. Excellent top roof with a kneepad.

Has to be 8a and quality moves. Will report back if I get up it. I remember the pic of Jon on this in an old OTE but haven't managed to track it down for beta.

Stabbsy

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#594 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 23, 2021, 11:53:56 am
Has to be 8a and quality moves. Will report back if I get up it. I remember the pic of Jon on this in an old OTE but haven't managed to track it down for beta.

Coincidentally, I saw this pic a few days ago while looking for an article on South Lakes bouldering. OTE92. Crap at posting this stuff up, so hopefully you've got it and I don't need to work out the technology!

Kingy

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#595 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 23, 2021, 10:58:45 pm
Ah cheers for the reference, I'll try and track it down. Funny how these pics become lodged in your brain. I guess back then OTE and High was pretty much all there was for climbing media...times change!

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#596 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 24, 2021, 07:36:32 am
Don't forget Stumbler And Bumbler :)

Kingy

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#597 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 24, 2021, 08:41:46 am
Wasn't it Climber and Flower arranger?  :-\

Will Hunt

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#598 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 19, 2022, 08:36:00 am
Dragonslayer, Eavestone Crack, Oubliette and The Alamo all clean.

Eavestone Wall is sprouting some shrubs from its ledges but the vertical rock looked pretty clean and it wouldn't take long to sort out.

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#599 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
September 28, 2022, 07:52:12 am
Upping The Ante at Robin Hood Quarry is in superb condition. 2 minutes from the car but won't stay in this condition for long...3 stars and would be a trade route elsewhere...

 

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