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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 268564 times)

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#525 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 16, 2018, 09:27:55 pm
Definitely not a soft touch, I had a look at the grade conversion charts and e6 goes up to 7c+ which surprised me. It’s got no logs on ukc so I wondered if anyone had done it on here

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#526 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 16, 2018, 11:47:42 pm
Wouldn’t be surprised if it hasn’t been repeated.

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#527 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 03:04:12 am
Yeah, it must have been repeated loads of times as it’s pretty polished under the dirt. Just thought I’d post it up as a worthwhile but seemingly neglected route and assumed someone like yourself must have done it. Can imagine the rockstars of the 90’s did laps on it.

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#528 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 08:09:48 am
Can imagine the rockstars of the 90’s did laps on it.

Yeah laps on top rope maybe  :lol:

That’s how the routes on that wall mainly got climbed and polished as it was used as a top rope / shunting venue.

Far too hard for hard for me as I didn’t embrace headpointing and stuck to to ground upping routes (unless new routing obviously)

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#529 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 06:53:01 pm
It feels like a bold sport route really, stick a bolt in it and you’d have a quality 7b+. I wonder if a lot of the polish is from caving groups abseiling etc

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#530 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 06:58:08 pm
There is a bolt in it. An old 8mm cavers spit that was used for re-belay practice.

It protects the hard bit.......may have been filled in.....

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#531 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 17, 2018, 07:25:46 pm
There’s an old hole where that may have been but definitely no bolts now. So maybe bottom end e7?

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#532 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 20, 2018, 05:26:23 pm
I cleaned / brushed snapdragon on Chee Tor yesterday. Great moves and good gear. Unfortunately I misread the crux so fell off getting into the undercuts by the thread. Pulled back on and was fine after that. Nice route!

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#533 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 06, 2018, 07:32:10 am
Bit of phone in shoe footage of ‘All systems go’ to the right of Scarab. I redpointed it with pre placed (poor) RP’s to protect a ground fall off the crux. Can’t figure whether it’s 7b+ or 7c but it’s definitely quality climbing with great moves all the way. Well worth checking out if it’s your bag. Must have been a pretty solid lead for the time in 1985!

Watch All systems go on Vimeo:


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#534 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 06, 2018, 09:58:49 pm
Nice one Dan, looks really good

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#535 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 07, 2018, 07:44:49 am
Cheers Mark, I’d be interested to hear what you think if you do it.

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#536 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 11, 2018, 11:40:52 am
Rapture on Waterfall Buttress WCJ has been dusted down. 7bish on almost perfect rock after the start.

Shaded after 1.30 and very cool being so close to the waterfall.

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#537 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 11, 2018, 07:28:02 pm
Not a recent thing and not my work but much of the dark wall at Trow Gill is clean, chalked, and ticked at the moment. I'm looking for a partner for this Saturday if anyone is up for it.

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#538 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 13, 2018, 08:34:22 pm
Hollywood Bowl at Giggleswick North has had some cleaning and traffic on some of the lesser-trodden routes recently:
Divine Brown 7c+, Willywacker 7c, Superbowl 7c, Jorjas Connection 7b+. Accelerator 8b+ is clean and chalked with a new bolt in.

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#539 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 22, 2018, 08:20:58 am
Cleaned Strawberries man at dyserth waterfall crag of the a55 yesterday. Have to say that it's a brilliant route, 8a to the right looks great too.

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#540 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 22, 2018, 11:57:35 am
Nice one

DAVETHOMAS90

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#541 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 30, 2018, 03:54:53 am
Bit of phone in shoe footage of ‘All systems go’ to the right of Scarab. I redpointed it with pre placed (poor) RP’s to protect a ground fall off the crux. Can’t figure whether it’s 7b+ or 7c but it’s definitely quality climbing with great moves all the way. Well worth checking out if it’s your bag. Must have been a pretty solid lead for the time in 1985!

Watch All systems go on Vimeo:

I always envisioned a Fisher-esque slap fest, rainbow Lycra and a bit of Venus in Furs from the ghetto blaster..

.. definitely no heel hooks, or elevator music - not if you ever wanted me to sign on for you.

 ;D

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#542 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 30, 2018, 07:58:14 am
Cleaned a ton of loose rock out of the crux pitch of Hamadryad in Twll Mawr while climbing it the other day so it's now only 'loose' instead of 'tottering'. Brambles still in-situ though.

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#543 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 30, 2018, 06:01:33 pm

[/quote]

I always envisioned a Fisher-esque slap fest, rainbow Lycra and a bit of Venus in Furs from the ghetto blaster..

.. definitely no heel hooks, or elevator music - not if you ever wanted me to sign on for you.

 ;D
[/quote]

Haha, I did wonder if it was done with the heel or something a bit more ‘slappy’

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#545 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 11, 2018, 11:05:32 pm
I gave Dharma a clean on Thursday and went back to climb it today. Great route, bold 7c ish. I think the bottom and top pegs are a bit dodgy but the climbing is steady there. 2 of the middle 3 seem reasonable. It should stay clean for a bit, but a good north westerly would be best to reduce humidity. Beta vid below

Watch Dharma on Vimeo:

_

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#546 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2018, 01:46:39 pm
Chuffin eck that's a long runout Dan! Looks like a trouser filler

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#547 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2018, 06:19:48 pm
You can piss 7c Ted, get on the flash :D

Good cleaning choice, purple patch Dawes tick n all.

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#548 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2018, 06:40:04 pm
Cheers Ted / Fiend, it’s definitely flashable and while run out you probably wouldn’t hit the floor off the final move to the ledge unless your belayer had a load of slack out. Still probably my top end in terms of risk.

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#549 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 22, 2018, 06:34:34 pm
The old pegs on the The Angler at Rubicon were replaced with bolts earlier this summer, after consultation with the first ascentionist. Hence there is still a bit of a runout after the crux. One very hard move, feels 7c/+ ish ? Also makes The Pinch Test and The Wimp a bit more appealing as there is now a decent belay.

 

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