UKBouldering.com

Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 268608 times)

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#500 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 03, 2016, 05:16:34 pm
Great Mark, care to suggest stars for them?

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 874
  • Karma: +128/-0
#501 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 03, 2016, 05:45:01 pm
Worth a star each. There's a bunch of good routes in the 7s up there, Dope, Witch in Stitch as well as the popular Never Look Back

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 922
  • Karma: +40/-1
#502 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 04, 2016, 11:59:33 am
Sanctuary wall, Devon.

Worth a plug to get more people up there.

There's a well equipped link up from Free the Spirit into Corvoisier that goes at about 7b+ (E6 6b probably feels right).  If you like 30 metre long overhanging jug fests, it's your cup of tea.  Loads of threads and pegs in very good condition, with good back ups available too.

One of the best pitches of it's type (sporty trad on a very atmospheric steep cliff) that I've ever done

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 922
  • Karma: +40/-1
#503 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
April 18, 2017, 11:51:09 am
Booby Prize, Marsland, North Devon

Did this yesterday.  Absolutely stunning route.  Really unique climbing in a stunning place.  About 7b+, very pumpy due to the nature of the holds (boobs).  It is currently clean and chalked, so make the most!  It gets pretty dirty due to the mud at the top.  Preplaced rope for the top is highly recomended/essential.  The pegs are in good condition (pretty new titanium), and there's a few decent placements too.  We did it after abbing down, cleaning/chalking/figuring out the moves.  WOuld be bloody deperate as an onsight!

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#504 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
April 18, 2017, 12:21:14 pm
Good effort! Always thought this looked amazing. Whose are the Ti pegs?

At closer to my payscale, have you done Brainchild (Bude)? This is another route entirely reliant on pegs that - when I last looked, from the ground - seemed to have crumbled to rust streaks.

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 922
  • Karma: +40/-1
#505 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
April 18, 2017, 03:15:00 pm
Don't know, but they've been there for a few years I think.  They are very crucial.  There would be no decent gear until about 12 metres without them. 

Such a brilliant route, definitely worth making the effort to go and do

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#506 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
April 29, 2017, 11:14:53 pm
Flame Arete at Hawkcliffe was clean on arrival today. I abbed it to brush it, but needn't have bothered, strictly speaking.
It's like a physically harder version of Strapadictomy, in a cool wooded setting. Very safe. Definitely worth travelling for.

Note that Squirrel Crack has Jackdaws nesting in it so isn't really a goer.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1044
  • Karma: +95/-2
#507 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 02, 2017, 08:25:27 pm
I cleaned stuffed badger and Kristian cleaned summer wine today at nettle butress. Get on them there ace

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#508 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 20, 2017, 05:52:08 pm
Read on FB today that Gary Gibson has spent 70-80k on bolts and pegs .  :o

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 874
  • Karma: +128/-0
#509 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 16, 2017, 04:17:22 pm
I cleaned Feeding The Pony and Small Things at Black Rocks this weekend. Quite keen for the latter if anyone fancies it let me know (Feeding the Pony felt depserate...)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9932
  • Karma: +561/-8
#510 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 17, 2017, 04:07:56 pm
I’ve had a rope on FDP before. Bottom move is fun (nowhere near the 7b mentioned by rockfax), the top dyno is pretty eliminate though and can be staticed by gastoning the layaway.
The Eighth Fold is bloody brilliant well protected bouldering if you’re in market for obscure Black Rocks E6. Probably unrepeated since we did it and not green so probably good to go without ab clean. Protection is a good ballnut 2 and RP 2 in slot out right. You can climb up and place gear from the right then downclimb and lead with it clipped.


mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 874
  • Karma: +128/-0
#511 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 18, 2017, 07:23:32 am
I’ve had a rope on FDP before. Bottom move is fun (nowhere near the 7b mentioned by rockfax), the top dyno is pretty eliminate though and can be staticed by gastoning the layaway.
Are you talking about Small Things there (not FTP?)?
Eighth Fold looks good, I'd be keen to try that

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9932
  • Karma: +561/-8
#512 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 18, 2017, 12:26:59 pm
Sorry yes I mean Small Things

Ally Smith

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 328
  • Karma: +16/-0
#513 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 18, 2017, 02:45:19 pm
 Weedkiller (the 7c+ route, not the boulder problem traverse) has a new bolt under the roof and is nice and clean

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#514 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 19, 2017, 01:38:42 pm
Sanctuary wall, Devon.

Worth a plug to get more people up there.

There's a well equipped link up from Free the Spirit into Corvoisier that goes at about 7b+ (E6 6b probably feels right).  If you like 30 metre long overhanging jug fests, it's your cup of tea.  Loads of threads and pegs in very good condition, with good back ups available too.

One of the best pitches of it's type (sporty trad on a very atmospheric steep cliff) that I've ever done

Just seen this!

Great work Ged  :2thumbsup: Sounds like a much better way of accessing the top of Courvoisier too. What a crap name  :P
What's the state of play on Flaming? I remember the pegs being dire on the bottom groove (if you climb it that way, instead of the wall). They were left over from White/Littlejohn, attempting to access the top of CV with a traverse along Madness. The top peg on Flaming Drambuie is important, especially if you do the direct finish - which I think is amazing - but I'm worried about the hold it's behind.
Shock horror. I'd advocate a bolt there instead!  :o  I'd have a look, but it's a long way from Sheffield.

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 378
  • Karma: +42/-0
#515 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
November 01, 2017, 01:08:24 pm
Lammergeyer Buttress Update for your BMC & RF Guides  (NB=New bolts) courtesy of the Peak Bolt Fund.

2. As Summers Die 7?
This has been bolted with low grade steel bolts and as far as known nobody has been able to repeat it? The bolts don’t follow the most probable line of least resistance and there are rock scars present.  Although a previous guide describes “demands an unreasonable degree of flexibility”

3. One way reflection E5 6b
One bolt in the middle of the wall after the crux. Very slate style. Not climbed in 30 years and ivy has taken over the start. Recently top roped at a very worthwhile 7a/+. This would be next on the list for retro if no one objects.

Unknown project up blank wall of snappy non holds??

Pinch an inch 7b+ is a direct start to: (NB)

4. Final Apocalypse 7a+ (NB)
Now straightened out to a lower off above.

5.6.7.8 Same. A bit blocky horror show around here although the flake line finishing out right Periscope Voyeur maybe worth a look.

To the right of the flake line is a wall of good solid compact rock.
 New line up compact rock 8a+ (NB)

9. Living with a porcupine 7a (old gear)
One very hard move at start to easier climbing on poor rock. Someone else may clean this up but it won’t be great.

10. Tree Surgeon 7b+ (NB)
Lots harder than previous guide books had speculated with their imperial to metric conversion. May not look like much but this one is good and bouldery. Shares the same starting holds as the next route but immediately pulls left contrary to the BMC description. (Note RF topo numbers are back to front)

11. Once upon a time 7b+ (NB)
Again much harder than expected. The bolts force the climber to join the previous route at the last bolt. Perched up on the right is a pillar of doom. Don’t touch! Apart from this the climbing is good.

12. The Fall 8a (NB)
The removal of some cruddy undercuts has just notched this one up a grade. The nature of the moves and the rock make bolt clipping a challenge so preclip what your happy with. Good.

13. Vindicator 7c/+ (NB)
The most popular route so far.

14. SkyFall 7c/+ (NB)
A new route in the proximity of an old project.

So there you have it. A few things to go at from 7a to 8a+. The crag seeps far less than others of its style. The climbing is butch, with hard undercutting and crimpers. The easier routes make for poor warm ups so get some in at Rubicon first.

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 378
  • Karma: +42/-0
#516 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
November 01, 2017, 01:18:38 pm
Grade changes currently can not be made on the UKC database as it is locked into the RockFax app but a note is made in the additional descriptions for affected routes.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=140

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 378
  • Karma: +42/-0
#517 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
November 04, 2017, 11:47:26 pm
Edit:
3. One way reflection 7a ish? (NB)
Good fingery climbing to a bolt/thread lower off.

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 922
  • Karma: +40/-1
#518 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
November 28, 2017, 10:25:35 pm
in reply to Dave Thomas: not been on flaming drambuie yet, although I followed the first pitch of it a few years ago and pulled a massive hold off it. I don't know if it's still climbaable. My mate led the top pitch and seemed to think the pegs were good enough. I didn't follow due to buggered elbows. Will have to go and get on it soon.

On the subject of sanctuary wall, did you do the e6's on the left? Call of the wild etc? I had a look at them and yet need some attention. The pegs are all useless now so the start looms pretty dangerous. Again, will have to go and sort them at some point. They look brilliant!

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#519 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 21, 2017, 08:20:20 am
Gary Gibson reported on Facebook that he's cleaned and replaced old threads on the Fly, Cleos Mood ,Black Grub, Central Wall, Catharsis and Midnight Mass at Beeston Tor and plans to do more work.

Can be a nice winter venue with some winter sun. Sounds like access might be a little overgrown still so dress for that and maybe take a handsaw

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 378
  • Karma: +42/-0
#520 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
February 15, 2018, 11:58:55 pm
The prickly rose wood, dead branches, hawthorn and brambles above Circe at Stoney Middleton have been cleared away.
 The old belay tree is mostly dead so I have cleared a passage up to the healthy cluster of trees to the left.

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
#521 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 07, 2018, 10:29:44 pm
Cleaned Ritual E4 6a at Peel Crag in Northumberland today. Feels a bit eliminate at the start but middle section is great. Removed lichen from the obvious footholds and excavated the larger handholds. Still doesn't look too appealling from below but is now clean enough to be a fun proposition. Peg doesn't look too bad but it is ancient, I backed it up on ab to a cam and wire in the route to the left.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#522 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 08, 2018, 10:22:36 am
Very good, will take heed of that.

user deactivated

  • Guest
#523 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 15, 2018, 10:30:54 pm
I’ve given ‘All systems go’ e6 6c on bubbles wall at Stoney a brush (apart from the top crack of scarab which was just to minging with dirt). I shunted the route which starts up scarab then moves right at the good flat hold at 10ft then straight up the wall to the base of the crack. It’s really quite good technical climbing on edges and pockets. Quite bold to lead with a low-ish thread and then unplaceable poor rp’s above. Potential ground fall going to the break and maybe the move before. It was pretty smeggy conditions and very dirty at first but felt around f7b+/c (I was only shunting tho). I’d be interested to hear if anyone’s done this. It would be an impressive onsight.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2952
  • Karma: +332/-2
#524 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 16, 2018, 05:08:02 pm
...Quite bold to lead with a low-ish thread and then unplaceable poor rp’s above. Potential ground fall going to the break and maybe the move before. It was pretty smeggy conditions and very dirty at first but felt around f7b+/c


Soft-touch E6 then!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal