Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 306596 times)

haydn jones · June 11, 2015, 07:10:19 pm

cleaned and climbed dog dirt, go cat and in the drink today at dog's dinner buttress.

Go Cat is excellent and worth doing, in the drink i thought wasn't very good but it did have 1 very good move at mid height off a cool RH ear but that's about it. Dog Dirt i just read the description on ukc that kristian wrote and he says span right to undercuts at the start, wish i knew that before getting on this, ended up going just strait up direct, felt the living end. maybe a tough 7B/+ boulder problem!

kc · June 12, 2015, 11:25:25 am

Did you start left of the block with a small edge RH and a crap side pull LH and leap LH into the hard to contact slot?

haydn jones · June 12, 2015, 12:29:19 pm

No still on block. I just didn't go out right to the under cuts was a cool move. Hard rock over to a decent sidepull

kc · June 12, 2015, 12:41:34 pm

ok. Zippy had to wedge a block behind the slab to reach the first holds.

kc · June 12, 2015, 12:45:47 pm

Gary didn't understand why I put a belay below the roof. Did not fancy surfing fridge sized blocks.

Mirf · July 07, 2015, 09:48:06 pm

Anyone know who has re-equipped a couple of the routes on lammergeyer buttress at wcj? Looks like a good job , would be good to get the rest of this crag scrubbed up and re bolted. Keen to help out myself if I can get hold of some bolts.

kc · July 08, 2015, 12:10:00 am

That would be me. "Vindicator" hard 7c and a new one to the right "skyfall" 7c+.
I also have a closed project in the middle which would have been done if I had not been knocked down by flu.
You are welcome to have a go at reequipping. I can get you all the bolts you need.

Mirf · July 08, 2015, 10:37:25 am

Hope the flu situation is improving.Good work on the new routes they look good keen to give them a go. Do you think any of the first ascentionists would disagree with rebolting? No one ever goes there anymore but I remember having some good days there back in the 90s when everything on rubicon wall felt beyond me. It's an ok bit of rock with some good bouldery routes. What bolts are you using? I have some 10 mm stainless expansions and a few petzl hangers I'm happy to use otherwise I'll try and get some off you sometime.

kc · July 09, 2015, 10:44:24 pm

Much better thanks.
I can't imagine there would be to much fuss replacing the various bits of fixed gear with good bolts. Only thing is Paul Mitchell did a few of them and we all know his stance. Chris wright is not bothered. Not sure about Richard Davies? I had a brief look at "The Fall". There is some potential to make something new and harder there by dispensing with the band of very crumbly loose undercuts out left and crafting a more direct line.

I have tonnes of 12mm expansions and hangers plus resin bolts too.

Jamie Sparkes · August 05, 2015, 02:15:07 pm

Hi,

Was chatting to dan middleton who suggested asking on here about borrowing a drill and getting some bolts for regearing down in cheedale. Couple of loose bits and bobs which could do with replacing.

Bonjoy · August 05, 2015, 03:25:21 pm

Your best bet is to PM kc and let him know what you have in mind as he has the pbf kit. It has been in use a lot of late so you might have to wait a while.

Johnny Brown · August 17, 2015, 10:53:08 am

Central buttress WCJ yesterday, El Mocho led La Chute with some effort. Shiny new bolt on the crux and lower, but no repeats logged on UKC since 1994. Hilariously below Behemoth (which we did after) in the new graded list. Harder moves and pumpier. Did this always have such a horrendous move across the roof? Good old Peak lime E5s...

Hydraulic Man · August 27, 2015, 07:42:38 pm

Cleaned "A Tall Story" at Rubicon this evening. Dusted down and cleaned off a couple of loose flakes. Nut slots cleaned out. Very good climbing with good but unobvious gear. PM for gear beta......

DaveyDave · September 12, 2015, 11:23:06 am

Not really rebolting but the jug on the Rumble in the Jungle dyno is disconcertingly wobbly, looks like it might need some TLC before it flies off in someones hand - not really sure what the best thing to do is

Potash · October 02, 2015, 08:13:57 am

Climbed Spazz Energy on the right end of Two Teir yesterday and gave it a good scrub.

I have no idea how much fixed gear this route originally had but I only placed one wire. The rest was all sold enough but the two bolts to the left were a bit old and rusty.

Who has the peak bolt fund kit if I were to offer to replace them next week?

T_B · October 02, 2015, 08:54:55 am

Spazz or Spizz? Spazz is a classic Gibson squeezed in abomination IMHO that needs de-equipped. It detracts from Spizz, which is/was a classic E5 #yorkshiredisease

Potash · October 02, 2015, 09:02:54 am

My mistake. The E5.

The only bolts on Spazz (7a+) that interfered with Spizz (E5) were at the top and as there is a really good thread at that height it made no diffrence to how it climbed.

The bolts in the groove (on Lightweight) were looking rusty. Were they always there?

T_B · October 02, 2015, 09:10:41 am

Righto - good work.

Not sure about those bolts in the groove. Just remember doing Spazz a few years ago and feeling dirty afterwards - such a squeezed non-line.

Bonjoy · May 16, 2016, 08:36:02 am

From UKC - Graham Hoey has done a major clean up at Tintwistle Knar - "All the best routes in the central and right-hand bays are now clean enough to enjoy. You won't get a better day's climbing at HVS to E5, with some of the best and least spoiled quarried routes on gritstone. Let's get out there and keep them in good condition!"

Gus · May 16, 2016, 09:14:06 am

Quote from: DaveyDave on September 12, 2015, 11:23:06 am

Not really rebolting but the jug on the Rumble in the Jungle dyno is disconcertingly wobbly, looks like it might need some TLC before it flies off in someones hand - not really sure what the best thing to do is

Just to give this a bump, would anyone with the necessary tekkers be keen to have a go at sorting this? I'd be happy to provide a belay etc. for said hero/ heroine! Keen to get Rumble polished off this summer but that jug is definitely coming off if I start swinging my carcass around on it again!!

Paul B · May 16, 2016, 04:53:40 pm

So I tried gluing this back on in its flapping state a handful of years ago by peeling it forward and applying glue underneath (I'm amazed people were still willing to jump at it the way it was rocking).

IM(uneducated)O it'll need to be removed (any fat RPs at the minute?), cleaned and then re-glued rather than a repeat of the temporary fix (

) mentioned above.

shark · June 27, 2016, 09:17:58 am

From Robin of Greenwood on FB:

Quote

For all the other ex-pat trad climbers out there who are waiting for the Cornice to dry, get yourself over to Chee Tor.
Over the past week a few of us have climbed, cleaned, and replaced threads on the following: Golden Mile, Mortlock's Arete, Ceramic, Meditation, Approaching, Shake, Splintered Perspex, and Queer Street. There's probably a few more I'm forgetting, but you get the idea...
Despite the rain this weekend the crag has been in mint condition both days, which is more than can be said for the Cornice.

SamT · June 27, 2016, 10:05:42 am

Hydraulic Man · June 28, 2016, 07:37:45 am

For anyone after an easy E5, Tuba Mirum at Stoney had 3 repeats at the weekend and is well chalked. The lower wall is still a bit snappy though.

Party in the Park on High Tor also climbed a couple of times in last 2 weeks. Well chalked and well good!

andy popp · June 28, 2016, 07:48:19 am

Quote from: shark on June 27, 2016, 09:17:58 am

From Robin of Greenwood on FB:

Quote
For all the other ex-pat trad climbers out there who are waiting for the Cornice to dry, get yourself over to Chee Tor.
Over the past week a few of us have climbed, cleaned, and replaced threads on the following: Golden Mile, Mortlock's Arete, Ceramic, Meditation, Approaching, Shake, Splintered Perspex, and Queer Street. There's probably a few more I'm forgetting, but you get the idea...
Despite the rain this weekend the crag has been in mint condition both days, which is more than can be said for the Cornice.

Such a great crag. One of my favourite in the Peak.