Makes sense, though a retrospective splitting of the thread into component areas would be a massive job. Maybe better to lock this one and start with new area-specific ones. Anyone else have thoughts on that?
Easy Rider on the Cornice cleaned. Good route to try if you have done Jug Jockey (seems harder?) Care needed on the slightly flexing flake in the break after leaving JJ - feels like it might bust off although has been reinforced with a lot of sika, you have been warned! The last bit is OK now its been dusted down but was filthy earlier
Its directly above the path, and there are some big blocks waiting to come off. A good candidate for de-gearing.
On Distant Voices I replaced the 8mm caving bolt with a 14mm x 110mm Titanium glue-in, which should be more confidence-inducing.
The bolts are Titan climbing eternas glued with Hilti RE500. The choice was Francis', informed by his experiences in Thailand, Vietnam and Hong Kong.
RE 500 is bubble gum red, looks fab on white Limestone.
QuoteOn Distant Voices I replaced the 8mm caving bolt with a 14mm x 110mm Titanium glue-in, which should be more confidence-inducing.I don't know enough about the venue or the route to pass comment, but (!) I can think of places where if this is considered a like-for-like replacement, we're going to see routes changing character. A tricky one for sure though, it wouldn't make much sense to replace one dodgy bolt with another either.
Not the best choice of glue though especially with British temperatures. Strong as houses but it's a bit too runny and slow setting for climbing bolts.It was designed for use in construction when fixing re-bar and such like into deep holes. That's why it's very runny and slow setting so it will penetrate into great depths.The responsible bolters amongst us will want to check that the resin has gone off before pulling the ropes not wait an hour or more. It may take 48h for it fully cure!I like to work with a thick glue to patch up with. RE 500 is bubble gum red, looks fab on white Limestone.
Re-cleaned the John Allen E3 6b Parallel Universe at Rivelin the other day. This goes up the front of the buttress between Only Here for the Smear and Moontan buttresses. It gets a poor write up in the guide, presumably only on the basis that it hasn’t been clean any time since the FA. It’s actually really nice and is a good airy 6C highball with a couple of pads. Worth doing before it retreats under the moss again for another 30 years, if you’re into this sort of thing.