Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 306595 times)

TobyD · March 25, 2009, 07:51:00 am

Quote from: El Mocho on March 24, 2009, 07:43:33 pm

On the grit side of things replaced the tat on the bolts and peg on 'Adam Smiths Invisible Hand'. Although the bolts are ancient they didn't seem to bad, and the climbing is ace.

nice one. care to elaborate on the reliability of the bolts as far as you can? Or the difficulty level compared to, say, Mother's Pride? Fancy a go GU / flash and would like to know what i'd be letting my self in for....

fatboySlimfast · March 25, 2009, 08:23:11 am

From what I remember the crux is next to the bolts so really more like a slump on to the rope, still bit cheeky higher up though......the crux move is amazing

El Mocho · March 25, 2009, 09:42:01 am

Quote from: fatboySlimfast on March 25, 2009, 08:23:11 am

From what I remember the crux is next to the bolts so really more like a slump on to the rope, still bit cheeky higher up though......the crux move is amazing

True. The hardest section is passing the third bolt so you would just sag onto top bolt (and there are two more to slow you down if it rips!) Although I didn't bounce test them they did seem pretty good - they don't look like they are going to snap but I don't know how deep they go.

I hadn't looked at the moves when I replaced the tat so gave it a kinda flash attempt. Felt quite a hard move to get to clip the third bolt and I then wanted to down climb and realised I had got a bit high so lowered off. I then did it straight off the go after. If you can clip the 3rd from low/down climb I think the flash is well on. It is a little more comitting getting to the peg - you will actually fall onto the bolt rather than sag - the climbing is easier although still 6a or so.

The crux section is very nice, as is all the route.

Quote from: creamtime on March 25, 2009, 07:51:00 am

Or the difficulty level compared to, say, Mother's Pride?

I onsighted Mothers Pride last week which was more of a battle for me (I was pumped stupid on the top and didn't really trust the pegs that much) whilst second go on Adams it felt ok (although obviously I didn't flash it!) Also did Perplexity at the weekend and it felt the easiest of the three.

fatboySlimfast · March 25, 2009, 10:09:16 am

I think a couple of people have on-sighted it in the past but I am struggling to remeber who.
Anyone tried Winters Grip, looks good with some pro on it as well, think Fatdoc did it in the 80's, one for on-sighting as well I rekon

Neil F · March 25, 2009, 12:46:36 pm

Graham Hoey told me there was a very good hand-placed blade on Winter's Grip - or maybe two? He thought it was a pretty steady lead with those.

Such an idea would never have occurred to me in 1984, which is why I soloed it - which felt pretty spicy (no mats in those days). Mind you, headpointing hadn't been invented then either, though that is effectively what I did....!

It was a classic cold, crisp gritstone day, with FA's of Quality Street, Winter's Grip and The Crypt Trip all going down.

Neil

El Mocho · March 25, 2009, 04:48:49 pm

In baltic conditions this morning I cleaned 'clock people' at millstone. It was so cold I nearly lost my fingers. I couldn't decide weather to clean this or go to crag x so I am kinda hopeing it was wet there as it would make me feel better about the state my gear and rope is in now (ie covered in shit)

Cleaned the bottom half pretty well, but just the holds on the top section (so if you drag your foot when moving it will be filthy) but it was proper raining at the time and all very green so it will prob need a quick brush when it is dry (it would probably benefit from a better clean to the top section as well but I doubt if I can be arsed)

Looks pretty safe and technical, take your rps.

I was thinking about cleaning the E7 further left - the fall but don't bounce one - as it sounds classic but I seem to remember it is in a similar condition to the clock people wall...

nic mullin · March 26, 2009, 01:09:35 pm

FBSF - I headpointed winter's grip sometime in 2002 I think. There's 2 slots that take hand placed pegs - #2 knifeblades (the CAMP ones, Black Diamond are too thin) are what you need. I climbed it starting on the right (as have others I've talked to) but I seem to remember discussing it with Neil on UKC a few years ago and he stayed on the left all the way.

It's safe and has nice moves the way I did it, can't comment on what it's like on the other side though.

simes · March 26, 2009, 04:39:56 pm

Quote from: El Mocho on March 25, 2009, 04:48:49 pm

I was thinking about cleaning the E7 further left - the fall but don't bounce one - as it sounds classic but I seem to remember it is in a similar condition to the clock people wall...

The Bad and the Beautiful...
The best route Ive ever done.

Steve R · March 26, 2009, 05:22:13 pm

hasn't something broken on bad and beautiful or am I imagining reading something to that effect?

Neil F · March 26, 2009, 05:33:33 pm

Quote from: nic mullin on March 26, 2009, 01:09:35 pm

FBSF - I headpointed winter's grip sometime in 2002 I think. There's 2 slots that take hand placed pegs - #2 knifeblades (the CAMP ones, Black Diamond are too thin) are what you need. I climbed it starting on the right (as have others I've talked to) but I seem to remember discussing it with Neil on UKC a few years ago and he stayed on the left all the way.

It's safe and has nice moves the way I did it, can't comment on what it's like on the other side though.

Yes, I did climb it on the left, which felt the obvious way to me back then. I seem to remember hanging a small crimp out left, and slapping several times up the upper arete with my right, until a final slap brought me back into balance, and able to let go of the crimp without instantly barndooring towards Lawrencefield..... I've some old school pics of the FA somewhere - resplendent in hairy green Helly trousers!

T_B · April 20, 2009, 09:46:21 am

Just thought I may as well flag up that I gave Scoop de Grace (Running Hill Pits) a good brushing yesterday. The bottom of the scoop (hold that Sam is reaching for in the photos in the back of the Rockfax) is still a bit green, but it looks like the sort of stuff that you need a wire brush to get off? And I'm not sure if I'd want to do that...

Anyway, amazing feature and perfect for this time of year as it faces north west - conditions were mint yesterday and the whole of the quarry incredibly dry.

I didn't get further than struggling to hold the slopers in the bottom of the groove.

Presumably you use these, plus stiff boots and technique to get those decent edges up and left, then rock back right into the scoop? Anyone?

Bonjoy · April 20, 2009, 10:42:13 am

Nearly ended up there myself yesterday too. Ended up at a very hot Stanage End instead

.
If you soak a green hold with a wet rag before brushing you can sometimes clean that sort of green off with a plastic brush.

Which reminds me I cleaned Shredded Feet a nice John Allen E3 6b/f7a at Black Rocks about a month ago.

Johnny Brown · April 20, 2009, 11:17:48 am

The Scoop de grace photos in rockfax are of a duff sequence starting on the right. The way Sam did it started on the left, very reachy for us (though shouldn't be a problem for you Tom), then a couple of stern pulls lead to a good hold left of the bottom of the scoop. The photo on my UKC gallery shows the move after, I don't think you use the slopers in the base of the scoop for hands at all, maybe for feet though. There was talk of a hold coming off a few years back, don't know whether it has been done since. Good venue, did you do much else?

T_B · April 20, 2009, 11:27:35 am

Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 20, 2009, 11:17:48 am

The Scoop de grace photos in rockfax are of a duff sequence starting on the right. The way Sam did it started on the left, very reachy for us (though shouldn't be a problem for you Tom), then a couple of stern pulls lead to a good hold left of the bottom of the scoop. The photo on my UKC gallery shows the move after, I don't think you use the slopers in the base of the scoop for hands at all, maybe for feet though. There was talk of a hold coming off a few years back, don't know whether it has been done since. Good venue, did you do much else?

Ah - that makes sense! I thought that might be the case as the slopers on the bottom of the groove are terrible and the crimps on the left small, but positive. I was trying it from the right though with a big bounce off the deck to that good edge, but couldn't then work my way leftwards without getting drawn into the bottom of the scoop. Must go back. I just checked the photo of yours on UKC this morning...

Yep, great little spot. Did the E4 direct past the spanner which has a couple of stern pulls low down and a new peg. The E5 immediately left of scoop with a big move at the top - v well protected by small wires and even though it's morpho, felt soft for the grade. then the classic calamity crack which is fab. plus a few other e1/2s - a fine day out a great rock temps when I suspect others were struggling in the sun

Falling Down · May 02, 2009, 05:53:09 pm

Nettle Butttress down t' Dale saw a good going over today. Martin Daley rebolted Toys for the Boys last night and cleaned it up today. Me and Brian Hall cleaned all the easier routes to the right which are really good; a couple of mates cleaned Subterra and me and Lee Proctor cleaned Stung which I'll rebolt with Martin next week.

T_B · June 01, 2009, 03:24:14 pm

Thought I may as well post that Reproduction on High Tor had it's nut placements cleaned out very recently. Great route, which has good gear between longish runouts (you will want to back up the thread on Tales which is lookin v old). A must for anyone that's done Tales/Supersonic. And it's easier/less harrowing than Bastille.

Adam Lincoln · June 01, 2009, 08:33:30 pm

Gigantic in Wilton 1 really clean and chalked now.

Fiend · June 01, 2009, 11:58:58 pm

Pricked By A Pulse E3/4 5c *** @ Pen Tyrau, Arenning Fawr, Meirionnydd - now in good climbable condition. Lower wall has had all holds well cleaned of moss etc etc and is totally fine.

Wilderness Grit E3 6a ***, Later That Night E3 5c *** and Araf Nawr E3 5c ** @ Y Grisau, The Rhinnogs, Meirionnydd - all cleaned and well chalked at time of posting.

All excellent routes BTW.

Bonjoy · June 21, 2009, 11:45:05 am

Quote from: Falling Down on May 02, 2009, 05:53:09 pm

Nettle Butttress down t' Dale saw a good going over today. Martin Daley rebolted Toys for the Boys last night and cleaned it up today. Me and Brian Hall cleaned all the easier routes to the right which are really good; a couple of mates cleaned Subterra and me and Lee Proctor cleaned Stung which I'll rebolt with Martin next week.

Went on TftB yesterday. What a great route! Could be best 7c+ in the Wye Valley I reckon, perfect rock, excellent climbing in a really nice setting. Big thanks to all involved in cleaning/re-bolt here! But what does 'Moon Bridge II' mean?

Falling Down · June 21, 2009, 10:49:56 pm

I'll pass on your thanks to Martin. He cleaned and rebolted the 7c/7c+ to the left of Stung yesterday too. Not sure what you mean by Moon Bridge II????

Bonjoy · June 22, 2009, 08:08:21 am

It's a mystery to me too, someone had scratched it into the grey dust at the bottom of TftB. I thought it might have some cryptic significance. Guess it was someone else.

Jaspersharpe · June 22, 2009, 05:27:37 pm

Sounds like a case for Jack Black and Silver.

Bonjoy · June 23, 2009, 08:55:53 am

I noticed Esmerelda 7c+ ** had been re-bolted too. How is it? Looks pretty good.

Falling Down · June 23, 2009, 10:51:16 am

Martin cleaned and rebolted Esmerelda on Saturday and had a go Sunday. I'll get him to come on here using my logon and he can give you the details... he mentioned some confusion over the start.

Tim Broughtonshaw · June 23, 2009, 10:57:01 am

Quote from: Bonjoy on June 21, 2009, 11:45:05 am

Quote from: Falling Down on May 02, 2009, 05:53:09 pm
Nettle Butttress down t' Dale saw a good going over today. Martin Daley rebolted Toys for the Boys last night and cleaned it up today. Me and Brian Hall cleaned all the easier routes to the right which are really good; a couple of mates cleaned Subterra and me and Lee Proctor cleaned Stung which I'll rebolt with Martin next week.
Went on TftB yesterday. What a great route! Could be best 7c+ in the Wye Valley I reckon, perfect rock, excellent climbing in a really nice setting. Big thanks to all involved in cleaning/re-bolt here! But what does 'Moon Bridge II' mean?

There is a nice crimpy wall climb at sector Odyssey Kalymnos called Moon Bridge. It goes at 7c+. Maybe done by the same person?

Cheers
Tim