[Kingy]

I cleaned up Jive Turkey at the Tor on sunday. Its a nice 7b+ from the Weedkiller belay. Unpolished rock plus the bolts are in good condition. It just needed the cobwebs and dust removing and a bit of chalk on it. Stick clip the Weedkiller belay and yard up the rope to start. If you want to check out the moves on TR, traverse the Cream Team break leftwards from the Sardine belay, lower down Bullit the Blue Sky and put the pieces in on the way down. A nice change from Sardine!

[Kingy]

I cleaned and dusted off Rooster Booster pitch 2 recently and it climbs well, a little bit snappy in places but does not affect the quality of the climbing. A few of the bolts are a bit old but there are so many of them that there are no safety issues. The only thing I would do is clip the first bolt on Jive Turkey with a 4 foot sling to back up the first independent bolt after the Weedkiller belay as if this failed without being backed up, you might be close to the ground. The crux is just before it slabs out and is quite an intense sequence on sidepulls, crimps and a flat undercut. There is a gaston which would make the sequence easier but it is crumbling and needs glueing, I missed it out. The climb goes to the top of the crag, the moves leaving the Cream Team break are not easy and there would be some good whipper potential if you came off near the top. The belay is not great to be honest, I lowered off the dead stump down to the break and then lowered off the maillons. Probably 7c in reality, certainly nails for 7b+.

[JC]

I cleaned up Jive Turkey at the Tor on sunday. A nice change from Sardine!

Had a play on this yesterday Ted, i agree its not a bad route. However i got a bit confused at first as to where it went at the top! I think i went up The Exterminator instead! lol    Some of the rock is a bit snappy though, i pulled a couple of chunks off!

[Kingy]

Had a play on this yesterday Ted, i agree its not a bad route. However i got a bit confused at first as to where it went at the top! I think i went up The Exterminator instead! lol    Some of the rock is a bit snappy though, i pulled a couple of chunks off!

Cool Jon! Zippy says it should be erased from the history books as it has now been superceded by his direct finish so it is now just a linkup. For Jive Turkey when you get to the break you step right and finish up Bullit the Blue Sky which is quite tricky just before the belay so the line is effectively a zig-zag. Yes in places the rock quality leaves something to be desired but this is more than made up for by the position.

Is the Exterminator Zippy's new direct finish to Jive Turkey? Keith said it was 8a+ to link Weedkiller into Jive Turkey finishing up this new direct finish (and not stepping right and finishing as for Jive Turkey), sounds fair to me! Do you know where the Exterminator finishes as there is no belay at the break - do you traverse right a bit to the Bullit loweroff?

There is also Zippy's new route to the left of Weedkiller which is apparently easier than Weedkiller! Hmmm, more linkup possibilities...

[Bonjoy]

I recently cleaned Spanish Fly at Gardom’s. It was very wet so I couldn’t pull on to check I’d cleaned all the right bits. It was totally filthed up, can’t imagine it’s been climbed in a long time. The top wall is still a bit dirty but it looks easy enough for this not to matter too much. Have put gear beta on http://gritlist.wetpaint.com/page/E6+Peak+District . Will probably need a couple of decent days to dry out or a strong wind. Looks very good!

[JC]

I wouldn't say that it should be erased from the history books. The top wall of the exterminator is a lot harder than jive turkey!  Going from the magazine report on the route, it says that the top bit is probably 8a and the full route (from weedkiller) 8a+.  If memory serves correctly i thought that the exterminator doesn't go to the ledge rest on weedkiller, but steps right just before this.?  The route is heavily sika'd i think...

[Kingy]

Interesting, I didn't see that magazine report, I will try and see how it goes. I think Zippy at one stage last summer was trying to link Weedkiller into the black wall inbetween Jive Turkey and Crumblefish, what eventually became Ste Mac's new 8c starting up the old Brazilian project. I think this was abandoned when Steve succeeded on his direct 8c version. I think it would be very contrived not to go into the rest on Weedkiller when continuing up Jive Turkey. Perhaps you would not be allowed to use this rest if attempting Zippy's old project indirect start to the 8c. Certainly the rest that you are not 'allowed' to take on Waddage at the Chimes belay would be a lot less contrived!

[Ru]

Zippy's 8a+ climbs Weedkiller then spans right into the black wall left of crumblefish. The direct start is 8c.

[Kingy]

Zippy's 8a+ climbs Weedkiller then spans right into the black wall left of crumblefish.

Thanks for clarifying Ru. The impression I got was that this was never actually climbed before Ste stepped in with the 8c.

[Ru]

Dont know then. Zippy is about to email me the full list of all his variations on the crag for the guide, so I will divulge all when I get that.

[robertostallioni]

That reminds me of a situation involving Griffo, a mate of mine, travelling home on the night bus, sitting next to a "clockwork orange" nutjack. They struck up a conversation with the Griffster trying to maintain positivity with this loose cannon. Griffo was happily getting skooled when suddenly a question arose, something had piqued Griffo's interest. He needed more info, "Can you divulge?" he asked. The nutjack looked straight at him as though he had been asked to name all 12 reindeer. Seconds passed. Finally he replied "Yes, you can".

[Kingy]

Dont know then. Zippy is about to email me the full list of all his variations on the crag for the guide, so I will divulge all when I get that.

Excellent, it would be good to know what the score is with about all the variations on this bit of the crag. Look forward to it!

[JC]

Just an update for Bonjoy or whoever,  i re-bolted a couple of routes down Cheedale last week. On Rhubarb buttress :-   first two bolts on 'De Vine' (8a+) replaced. The rest are solid glue-ins.  Also re-bolted the 7b+ to the left  'Me Tarzan' whilst i was there.
Their not in condition or anything, but at least they are ready for next year. If you like short bouldery routes like at Rubicon then 'De Vine' should be on your list. Nice looking route.

Cheers
Jon C

[Bonjoy]

  Nice one Jon.

[JC]

Bonjoy, re-bolted 'The Ogre' this afternoon.  Looks wicked, although it will need a clean when it dries out. Looks quite hard too, big moves on small edges and undercuts.   Have you also looked at 'Kumquat' on Chee Tor East? Supposed to be another 3* 8a+/8b. Looks very good.

Jon C

[andy popp]

Good effort. Did you like for like it, e.g. is still just 4 bolts and quite big runouts?

[JC]

Good effort. Did you like for like it, e.g. is still just 4 bolts and quite big runouts?

There's a couple of extras - one at the start & a dogging bolt at the crux.  I like the look of Boobs as well,  will be getting on that. Did it ever get a repeat? 

[Bonjoy]

Awesome, i've always wanted to get on The Ogre. Is it dry??

[dave]

I like the look of Boobs as well

you're only human.

[JC]

I like the look of Boobs as well

you're only human.

I knew someone would say that      Its not dry at the moment bonjoy, but i shouldn't think it would take ages to dry though?

[andy popp]

The Ogre is a great route

I like the look of Boobs as well,  will be getting on that. Did it ever get a repeat? 

At last! I've been trying to get people to try this for years, to no avail. Will be interested to know what you think (it should dry quicker than the Ogre, being a bit more open). Never heard of any repeats. Al Murray told me he'd found it 'very genetic'. I took this to mean he couldn't do it.

[JC]

Had a play on Boobs today Andy. Did all the moves ok, but didn't go for the redpoint cos it was bloody freezing! lol   Like the style of climbing though, a bit like Long Tor Quarry.   Found the last section to the lower-off the trickiest bit. Super technical footwork required. Will hopefully get back there when its slightly warmer!   

[andy popp]

I found the moves through the lower bulge (small right hand edge and little ear next to it, v. small feet?) the technical crux but the top (shared with Boo) is definitely the redpoint crux. I fell off there a few times on redpoint despite already having done Boo first go.

[El Mocho]

On the grit side of things replaced the tat on the bolts and peg on 'Adam Smiths Invisible Hand'. Although the bolts are ancient they didn't seem to bad, and the climbing is ace.

Nice conversion from gritstone season stuff to Limestone season as it is essentialy a f7b grit arete!

[Idol eyes]

Whats the DL on that Douggy Hall route on (nettle butress?). had all the bolts stripped by G Hoey ages ago... E7 never knew alot about lime... tried this with the bolts just before they were tugged out,,, any repeats...
thought it was 8a (f)