[Bonjoy]

That sounds plausible. Probably the same person who put tick marks labelled L1, L2, L3 and L4 on the route. I'm on the lookout for a one handed climber wearing Mr Magoo specs!

[Falling Down]

That'll be Martin - he's as blind as a bat.  Still  no excuse for airfix instructions oin the rock.. 

[Bonjoy]

Ooops, I brushed them off. Hope he doesn't get lost  .
To be honest I found it amusing rather than offensive.

[Falling Down]

I shouldn't worry, he's getting married this Saturday so will be 2 stones heavier in three months and not even get off the ground.

[T_B]

Jon - how were the other routes looking on Nettle Buttress? E.g. Summer Wine? Overgrown etc or have they been getting some action too? Ta.

[Bonjoy]

They were dry but didn't look to have had recent traffic. It's a clean crag by Cheedale standards and the unclimbed stuff didn't look too bad and has little plant life on route (top outs might be worse).
Am considering replacing Stuffed Badger's two shit bolts (next to each other) with one decent bolt.
On Summer Wine I couldn't see the peg mentioned in an old guide but the stuck wire mentioned was in place.

[Bonjoy]

Did some bits at Nettle Buttress on Monday:

•   Cut back Sycamores from the base of Major Incompetence and Summer Wine
•   Stuck hold back on Esmeralda which had fallen off at the weekend. Note: there is a biggish lump of looseness at the base of the top arete/groove by the last bolt. I’ll take it off next time I’m there, but feel free to do it for me. It’ll probably make the route a touch harder, but still soft at 7c I think.
•   Cleaned Summer Wine and removed the ancient stuck wire. Looks a great route with no looseness and ok gear (small-medium cams and tiny wires). The peg looks in good nick (usual caveats apply). I left a sling and crab on the tree as a lower off.
•   Cleaned Stuffed Badger, a good looking Moffat E5 up the hanging scoop just left of Summer Wine. Replaced the thread in the first break and replaced the pair of ancient bolts with a 12mm glue in. The traverse in at the bottom was too wet to clean properly, leaving three options for anyone trying the route in its current condition:- clip the second bolt on Long Dead Train to protect yourself slithering across the wet bit, do the direct start or traverse in from the start of Summer Wine. Lowers off from same sling as SW.

Both the E5s looked excellent and un-gnarly, I’ll definitely be going back to give them a go.

[Falling Down]

Nice work Jonbonjovi.... 

[uptown]

•   Stuck hold back on Esmeralda which had fallen off at the weekend. Note: there is a biggish lump of looseness at the base of the top arete/groove by the last bolt. I’ll take it off next time I’m there, but feel free to do it for me. It’ll probably make the route a touch harder, but still soft at 7c I think.

I think that should read soft at 7c+, though it might have felt hard as it was my warm-up?

Good effort on your work Jon, are you the only peak slime guardian who's investing time in sorting out the unclimbed unclean classics down there, or should I wad others too?

[Falling Down]

 

[Bonjoy]

Falling Down of course. Martin re-equipped TFTBs and Esmeralda, but I don’t think he’s a UKBer. JC and Belperpete do lots of cleaning and re-equipping. He recently sorted out DeVine, another (7b+) route on Rhubarb Buttress and The Ogre on Chee Tor. Pig (aka Kristian Klemmow) has done more than his fair share of re-equipping on peak lime, though not so much this year as he’s just had a kid. Could do with a few more hands on deck really.
I thought 7c for Esmeralda with the kneebar trickery, but as we couldn’t redpoint with the hold missing it’s hard to know for sure. The non-kneebar way looked harder, maybe 7c+. Hopefully will get back there tomorrow and get a better idea.

[JC]

He recently sorted out DeVine, another (7b+) route on Rubarb Buttress

You mean 8a+ bonjoy? 

I visited Nettle Buttress for the first time yesterday and was well impressed! Unfortunately in this weather there was a massive amount of dampness on a lot of routes. Tried Toy's but that was minging damp.  Esmeralda and the 7b+ to the right both look dope though.  Good work on re-equipping peeps.   

[Dolly]

Has anyone been on/done Devine ?

[JC]

Yeah i did it about a month ago. I would definately recommend it. The moves are fantastic and its got the best mono move on it, wicked stuff     Its probably soft for the grade - 8a/+.
Only problem is the slab at the bottom is usually shitty and wet.

[Dolly]

OK cheers

[Bonjoy]

He recently sorted out DeVine, another (7b+) route on Rubarb Buttress

You mean 8a+ bonjoy? 

Bad wording on my part. I meant you'd re-equipped DeVine and the 7b+ next to it.

[T_B]

I'm about to head out to Cheedale now. At the risk of asking an unanswerable question, do you think Nettle Buttress will be affected by condensation?  I suppose if it is then I'll head along to Chee Tor.  Interested to see that buttress anyway as I've never even looked at it...

[Johnny Brown]

Nettle buttress was fine last week in not disimilar weather. Surprised to hear it was damp yesterday.

[belperpete]

Nettle buttress was fine last week in not disimilar weather. Surprised to hear it was damp yesterday.

I was with JC yesterday and it really was uncomfortably humid, to the extent that, as we dropped down to the Wye (from Wormhill)
clouds of water vapour, trapped by the trees hung over the river. You could have filmed one of those 'Predator' type American movies, where the heroes
are all muscley men, with camo paint on, headbands and big guns. Oh and they also growl in really deep voices when they talk.
 

[Johnny Brown]

Strangely, Dense has suddenly got all keen to go to Cheedale.

http://www.youtube.com/v/ZFYxCIr-Byo

[uptown]

I'm about to head out to Cheedale now.

How was it this evening then T_B?
Should I head down there tomo or will it be sloppy?

[belperpete]

  Sorry, forgot to mention the tight, sweat stained armless vest and the wrist-band
Oh my god, might try again down there tomorrow, myself!! See ya Dense!

[T_B]

Belperpete totally on the money. If only I'd checked back on UKB before heading out...

I wear spectacles. It was like being in a sauna. Got 3/4 of the way up Summer Wine, toothbrushing as I went, with glasses steaming up. Got pumped on sweaty/dusty rock, couldn't get any decent gear in above the peg. Reversed a bit and told my girlfriend to take the rope in tight on the peg. Sure enough the gear after the peg all pulled, I fell slowly and landed in a heap on the ground. A few nettle stings. She was tied down, but had some rope burn. I think we might be going sport climbing in a couple of weeks, rather than a Brit trad extravaganza

[Johnny Brown]

Effort Tom! Its no wonder these things are neglected... hardly representative of UK trad though?

[T_B]

yeah, it's a funny place Cheedale. I remember having a similar hard time on Autobahn on Chee Tor many moons ago. That dusty stuff somehow means you can't just pull and go. Add in the completely ridiculous levels of humidity and one asks the question "what the f*ck am I doing here?". Stuffed badger to the left looks good with a shiny new bolt in it  good effort jon et al kick starting the crag again. 3 teams there last night.