UKBouldering.com

Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 309729 times)

Felix14

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +5/-0
#675 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 09:10:20 pm
Found a yellow rope by the wall. Left it under great white.

Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 802
  • Karma: +54/-0
#676 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 09:29:00 pm
You’ve got me psyched: I’ve just sent Mr Walker a permit request. Fingers crossed it stays dry.

Mr Walker only owns the bit with The Shootist and the approach originally described in the old YMC limestone guide. It's possible to walk in over the top from Austwick with no need to contact Mr Walker (the originally described parking isn't really suitable for one car, let alone any more).
It would be a fair old walk from Austwick given that’s over near Settle! I presume you mean either Hawkswick or (more likely) Arncliffe?

Felix14

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +5/-0
#677 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 09:35:41 pm
It is Arncliffe yes. Read Austwick and didn't even notice.

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 203
  • Karma: +18/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#678 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 09:38:21 pm
Barracuda
Start at the very left end of the upper ledge. Start by a otricky move stepping left onto the walL…

northern yob

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 353
  • Karma: +42/-2
#679 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 09:47:42 pm
Found a yellow rope by the wall. Left it under great white.

Nice one… it belongs to one of my peeps. Thanks someone will collect it this week. 👊

Felix14

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +5/-0
#680 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 09:49:28 pm
Just looking at northern limestone 2015 and it shows the line going up from the left of the ledge, then right a bit (where stairway branches off) then left. This lower section is incredibly loose now, I assume it wasn't in the past? It's possible to start  3m right of this and avoid the looseness.

The guide also shows Death Wish starting up Barracuda which is incorrect. I think it's been clarified on UKC that it starts up central wall.

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 203
  • Karma: +18/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
#681 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 03, 2024, 10:36:50 pm
Barracuda.
The line on the topo in the current Rockfax guidebook and on the Rockfax app is wrong. It was right in the previous edition, so I have added a screen shot of the old topo to UKC for you to see.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=433810
« Last Edit: August 03, 2024, 10:46:36 pm by Steve Crowe »

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3150
  • Karma: +174/-4
#682 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 04, 2024, 08:25:57 am
Another voice to add to what Will said; I spoke to the BMC office about this a few years back and the advice was "just go and don't worry about a permit unless you're set on parking by the farm" ; although it's not really parking so much as pulling up on the side of the road and blocking it in a preagreed way.

I can add the walking directions from arncliffe on here if it would be useful. It's a pleasant walk and largely flat other than a few minutes at the beginning. Certainly better than the Yew Cogar walk! Otherwise just DM me.

northern yob

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 353
  • Karma: +42/-2
#683 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 04, 2024, 09:45:05 am
I don’t know if there’s some underlying issues with mr walker, people seem to be implying that the parking isn’t suitable….

We parked 2 cars, without any issue, nothing was blocked, it’s certainly possible to park 3 without any issue, the permits are a undoubtedly a ball ache, but in all honesty we sorted it all out within a couple of hours, his response over email was prompt, it’s definitely good to have other options but it’s a small price to pay for easy access to a great crag.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8191
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
#684 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 04, 2024, 10:00:22 am
It is Arncliffe yes. Read Austwick and didn't even notice.

I always get these two mixed up  :slap:

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3150
  • Karma: +174/-4
#685 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 05, 2024, 10:35:07 am
I don’t know if there’s some underlying issues with mr walker, people seem to be implying that the parking isn’t suitable….

We parked 2 cars, without any issue, nothing was blocked, it’s certainly possible to park 3 without any issue, the permits are a undoubtedly a ball ache, but in all honesty we sorted it all out within a couple of hours, his response over email was prompt, it’s definitely good to have other options but it’s a small price to pay for easy access to a great crag.

Mr Walker has a mixed reputation among those I've spoken to but good to hear he is responding quickly. My comment re the parking was that it isn't a layby, its a very slight widening of the road which would mean that if more than one group was already there you'd not be able to park there even if you did have permission. Not very likely though admittedly. The attraction of the village parking and walk from there is to remove any issues around parking/getting permits which might result in a few more spontaneous visits from folk who haven't planned ahead. Its such a short season at Blue that its worth emphasising that if you wake up one day and want to go, just go and don't worry about the permit, just walk in the other way.

accynez

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 11
  • Karma: +8/-0
#686 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 12, 2024, 04:15:24 pm
More Blue Scar cleaning yesterday. Death Wish is now very clean and chalked. Ready for any brave souls that might fancy an onsight attempt. Looked like someone had been on True Blue as well. No other teams there so parking definately wasn't an issue even on a sunny Sunday. Applied for permit Monday morning, took 5 minutes, had it by Tuesday lunchtime.

Felix14

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +5/-0
#687 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 13, 2024, 06:05:25 pm
Good to see these routes getting cleaned and climbed. I'm keen to get to Blue on Friday but I'm without a partner at the moment. Any psyche on here?

northern yob

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 353
  • Karma: +42/-2
#688 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 13, 2024, 06:15:59 pm
I’m planning on going on Friday…. Looks like I’m going to be solo!! Was planning on some traxioning, there’s a small chance my plans might change but I’d be happy to hold your ropes/exchange pleasantries I might end up with a mate but the more the merrier….. probably see you there, I’ll be there in the am, might leave early pm.

The Shocker

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 5
  • Karma: +1/-0
#689 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
November 06, 2024, 12:12:23 am
Hang Ten in the Green Room has had a good scrub (top job Job Brindley). The two original pegs remain, but not really peg reliant route with modern rack. 1st is poor but not necessary and with lots of cam options nearby. 2nd at the crux and last piece before the runout arête is in OK nick (possibly replaced early '00s), but also easily protected by RP's and cam. Razor crimps are still snappy and the runout still massive!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal