the shizzle > chuffing
Routes cleaned or re-equipped
Hacker:
On the off chance anyone has come across a BD green Z4 whilst doing all the cleaning in electric quarry mine dissapeared in there one evening in the summer.
Spent about an hour looking for it but never found it :wavecry:
Hydraulic Man:
--- Quote from: El Mocho on September 27, 2023, 04:35:38 pm ---
--- Quote from: Neil F on September 27, 2023, 02:59:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: El Mocho on September 26, 2023, 06:12:21 pm ---I think the current grade is realistic.
--- End quote ---
Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben :-\
I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale ;D
--- End quote ---
I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.
I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.
--- End quote ---
I got my wire back, thanks Ben.
The left hand crimp went yesterday completely...Nick Conway sorted another sequence out and repeated along with Dom... still possible (and just as hard)
Felix14:
Cleaned some routes at Baildon lower quarry recently and added some lower offs/ab points so you don't have to do the annoying walk off. Here's a list of stuff I've cleaned or were already clean.
J.R. Special E6 6c
Removed bramble cornice, but not brushed. Seems hard and bold.
Cripples Revenge E6 6c
Clean and with lower that serves Hergest Ridge also. A tad eliminate but nice moves, peg is ok.
Hergest Ridge E4 5c
Best rock in the quarry on the upper section, a bit ledgey to get there. Steady but bold.
Anne of Cleaves E3 5c
Best route here and the shaley break at the start doesn't detract too much. Brilliant climbing above. The top ledge is still a bit dirty but fine. Lower off on tree above.
Barred for Life E4 6a
Haven't cleaned but looks in good nick. Pegs can be backed up with small gear.
Triang Hvs 5a
Still a bit dirty but climbable. Loose block in the initial groove and some very loose stuff on the top out. Easily avoidable though.
Mandy Fly Me E2 5b
Scary slab at the start then nice moves up the pod.
Live and Let Pie E6 6b
Seen lots of attention recently, tis a good route. Peg is decent and crux is well protected with lots of small cams.
Scythe Man E5 6a
Removed lots of loose flakes at the lip. Care should be taken with all the rock in the roof but the gear is good. Full on adventure.
Scoop E3 5c
Slab is clean. Scary and goes on a bit further than you'd like. Upper corner is still dirty but much steadier.
Cobra Groove E6 6c
Hard move pulling over lip protected by bomber peg. Nails
Viper Vs 4c
Nice varied climbing, a tad bold. Clean enough, the upper crack still has some detritus in it but is fine. Lower/ab point which serves all the routes from Triang to Viper.
Iain's Swansong E6 6b
Already clean. Some good moves but not the best route hereabouts.
Tony:
--- Quote from: T_B on September 27, 2023, 03:50:54 pm ---I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.
--- End quote ---
You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.
Fiend:
--- Quote from: Felix14 on April 30, 2024, 07:00:47 pm ---Cleaned some routes at Baildon lower quarry recently and added some lower offs/ab points so you don't have to do the annoying walk off. Here's a list of stuff I've cleaned or were already clean.
J.R. Special E6 6c
Removed bramble cornice, but not brushed. Seems hard and bold.
Cripples Revenge E6 6c
Clean and with lower that serves Hergest Ridge also. A tad eliminate but nice moves, peg is ok.
Hergest Ridge E4 5c
Best rock in the quarry on the upper section, a bit ledgey to get there. Steady but bold.
Anne of Cleaves E3 5c
Best route here and the shaley break at the start doesn't detract too much. Brilliant climbing above. The top ledge is still a bit dirty but fine. Lower off on tree above.
Barred for Life E4 6a
Haven't cleaned but looks in good nick. Pegs can be backed up with small gear.
Triang Hvs 5a
Still a bit dirty but climbable. Loose block in the initial groove and some very loose stuff on the top out. Easily avoidable though.
Mandy Fly Me E2 5b
Scary slab at the start then nice moves up the pod.
Live and Let Pie E6 6b
Seen lots of attention recently, tis a good route. Peg is decent and crux is well protected with lots of small cams.
Scythe Man E5 6a
Removed lots of loose flakes at the lip. Care should be taken with all the rock in the roof but the gear is good. Full on adventure.
Scoop E3 5c
Slab is clean. Scary and goes on a bit further than you'd like. Upper corner is still dirty but much steadier.
Cobra Groove E6 6c
Hard move pulling over lip protected by bomber peg. Nails
Viper Vs 4c
Nice varied climbing, a tad bold. Clean enough, the upper crack still has some detritus in it but is fine. Lower/ab point which serves all the routes from Triang to Viper.
Iain's Swansong E6 6b
Already clean. Some good moves but not the best route hereabouts.
--- End quote ---
Top work Felix :2thumbsup: :bow: :clap2: Had a great day there 10 years ago, definitely some fine quarry climbing that deserves more attention. Do you want to join the Lancs guidebook team by any chance :lol:
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