[El Mocho]

I didn't try before the hold broke, I imagine it's a slightly harder move now, judging by the state of the holds left and from what Hydraulic said. But it's not hard enough, bold enough or sustained enough to bump it up an E grade (again like Hydraulic says it's no more than E4 without this section, assuming nothing falls off the trav left with you attached), and as someone brought up at Almscliff I believe there is nothing above 6c anyway, just dif levels of 6c.

[Fiend]

Sounds like your mum needs to work a bit on her crimping strength and determination if she blew the flash go tho....

[Neil F]

I think the current grade is realistic.

Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben 

I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale   

[kc]

Regarding the Rubicon route. "Harder than Caviar" was the original quote. ???

[T_B]

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light. The first 3 moves are harder than the first 3 moves of Caviar and it didn’t look like I was at the hard bit yet!

[kc]

I thought the moves were really good from the undercut but I lost interest very quickly with the sharp crimpy start and other distractions. I'm sure Caviar felt easier but that was 20 years earlier with enthusiasm.

[El Mocho]

I think the current grade is realistic.

Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben 

I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale   

I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.

I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.

[El Mocho]

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light. The first 3 moves are harder than the first 3 moves of Caviar and it didn’t look like I was at the hard bit yet!

I thought the first move was the hardest so stick with it. I'm not sure if you've been on a rope on it but it's very ground up able with a few pads. I can message you some gear beta if you want, it's prob around 7a from the bolt onwards.

Bosi flashed this but fell off Caviar and I think he had dogged up Caviar already (I didn't pay enough attention to be sure) so that was a fall on first RP on Caviar vs flash on PMD.

It's not easy though, around 7B/+ and without pads would be quite high getting the flake. I had 3 pads which changed the nature of it completely.

[Hydraulic Man]

Just a suggestion but would be really interesting if someone could do a Lime List for the Peak with routes above E5 and the current state of rhe gear etc..The current guides are hopelessly out of date...

[shark]

Just start a thread…

[Hacker]

On the off chance anyone has come across a BD green Z4 whilst doing all the cleaning in electric quarry mine dissapeared in there one evening in the summer.

Spent about an hour looking for it but never found it 

[Hydraulic Man]

I think the current grade is realistic.

Just wondering how typical it is for you to get on the crimps on a 6b move and simply give up, Ben 

I agree that the E grade is a given, but from what I saw the other day, the crux looked every bit a 6c sequence to me - even if at the lower end of the Almscliff scale   

I'd forgotten it was 6b, even though you told me that at the crag the other day, was thinking it had been given 6c - as per the name one ard move on an E6 on Peak lime would be 6c anyway. So 6c.

I found a rock 5 at the top, assume it was 1 of you guys. I've left it on the start hold of OAM.

I got my wire back, thanks Ben.

The left hand crimp went yesterday completely...Nick Conway sorted another sequence out and repeated along with Dom... still possible (and just as hard)

[Felix14]

Cleaned some routes at Baildon lower quarry recently and added some lower offs/ab points so you don't have to do the annoying walk off. Here's a list of stuff I've cleaned or were already clean.

J.R. Special E6 6c
Removed bramble cornice, but not brushed. Seems hard and bold.

Cripples Revenge E6 6c
Clean and with lower that serves Hergest Ridge also. A tad eliminate but nice moves, peg is ok.

Hergest Ridge E4 5c
Best rock in the quarry on the upper section, a bit ledgey to get there. Steady but bold.

Anne of Cleaves E3 5c
Best route here and the shaley break at the start doesn't detract too much. Brilliant climbing above. The top ledge is still a bit dirty but fine. Lower off on tree above.

Barred for Life E4 6a
Haven't cleaned but looks in good nick. Pegs can be backed up with small gear.

Triang Hvs 5a
Still a bit dirty but climbable. Loose block in the initial groove and some very loose stuff on the top out. Easily avoidable though.

Mandy Fly Me E2 5b
Scary slab at the start then nice moves up the pod.

Live and Let Pie E6 6b
Seen lots of attention recently, tis a good route. Peg is decent and crux is well protected with lots of small cams.

Scythe Man E5 6a
Removed lots of loose flakes at the lip. Care should be taken with all the rock in the roof but the gear is good. Full on adventure.

Scoop E3 5c
Slab is clean. Scary and goes on a bit further than you'd like. Upper corner is still dirty but much steadier.

Cobra Groove E6 6c
Hard move pulling over lip protected by bomber peg. Nails

Viper Vs 4c
Nice varied climbing, a tad bold. Clean enough, the upper crack still has some detritus in it but is fine. Lower/ab point which serves all the routes from Triang to Viper.

Iain's Swansong E6 6b
Already clean. Some good moves but not the best route hereabouts.

[Tony]

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.

You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.

[Fiend]

Cleaned some routes at Baildon lower quarry recently and added some lower offs/ab points so you don't have to do the annoying walk off. Here's a list of stuff I've cleaned or were already clean.

J.R. Special E6 6c
Removed bramble cornice, but not brushed. Seems hard and bold.

Cripples Revenge E6 6c
Clean and with lower that serves Hergest Ridge also. A tad eliminate but nice moves, peg is ok.

Hergest Ridge E4 5c
Best rock in the quarry on the upper section, a bit ledgey to get there. Steady but bold.

Anne of Cleaves E3 5c
Best route here and the shaley break at the start doesn't detract too much. Brilliant climbing above. The top ledge is still a bit dirty but fine. Lower off on tree above.

Barred for Life E4 6a
Haven't cleaned but looks in good nick. Pegs can be backed up with small gear.

Triang Hvs 5a
Still a bit dirty but climbable. Loose block in the initial groove and some very loose stuff on the top out. Easily avoidable though.

Mandy Fly Me E2 5b
Scary slab at the start then nice moves up the pod.

Live and Let Pie E6 6b
Seen lots of attention recently, tis a good route. Peg is decent and crux is well protected with lots of small cams.

Scythe Man E5 6a
Removed lots of loose flakes at the lip. Care should be taken with all the rock in the roof but the gear is good. Full on adventure.

Scoop E3 5c
Slab is clean. Scary and goes on a bit further than you'd like. Upper corner is still dirty but much steadier.

Cobra Groove E6 6c
Hard move pulling over lip protected by bomber peg. Nails

Viper Vs 4c
Nice varied climbing, a tad bold. Clean enough, the upper crack still has some detritus in it but is fine. Lower/ab point which serves all the routes from Triang to Viper.

Iain's Swansong E6 6b
Already clean. Some good moves but not the best route hereabouts.

Top work Felix Had a great day there 10 years ago, definitely some fine quarry climbing that deserves more attention. Do you want to join the Lancs guidebook team by any chance 

[T_B]

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.

You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.

No but I was wondering whether it was dry as I’m keen. Been doing more bouldering this winter so hoping to get a bit further. Generally I get out Tuesday evenings so let me know if you fancy a session on it?

[stone]

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.

You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.

From what time of day is it coming into the shade? I suppose it is more East-facing than Caviar but less steep?

[Felix14]

Cheers Fiend.
I'll Pm you my CV 

[Felix14]

Just cleaned up some routes at blue scar. The routes aren't pristine but the worst of the dust has been removed. The whole crag is bone dry at the moment and has some of the best trad routes on Yorkshire limestone. Would be good to see some action this year after not seeing anyone else climbing there last year.

The access situation is still as described on ukc. An email requesting access should be sent to sundail@globalnet.co.uk along with proof of BMC membership.

Central Wall E5 6a
Apart from the cluster of tat in the middle the gear is generally good albeit spaced wires. A brilliant adventurous pitch. Take care with rock on the bottom of this and Priapism.

Priapism E5 6b
Long and hard with a bulge at the top. Fixed gear in good nick. Where the pegs are bad it is possible to back them up.

The Shootist E5 6b
Replaced all the threads and lower off. Probably quite reasonable without the threads but would maybe be even less popular. Immaculate rock on most of the route, a little creaky at the top, take care.

[Tony]

Just cleaned up some routes at blue scar.

Nice one again Felix. Any plans to go back for The Great White? It’s a brilliant route. Unfortunately 8 years later and I’ve still not been back for a clean ascent.

[Felix14]

I did that last year. Had plans to clean it this year again though. It's one of my favourites there. Again fixed gear should be in good nick.

[Tony]

You’ve got me psyched: I’ve just sent Mr Walker a permit request. Fingers crossed it stays dry.

[northern yob]

Nice work Felix!

Seeing this was the push I needed to sort my shit out and get back here after what must be more than 20yrs, planning to spend a bit of time here this year…. Keen to do a bit of headpointing as well as some onsighting. The E3 and E4 by the shootist are chalked and semi clean as well now…. It really just needs some traffic, maybe installing a via ferrata to the tops would help so people can easily rig top ropes….. 🤣

Obvs i jest…. Great crag! Let’s not fuck it up with peg bolts… via ferrata’s , bolts and convenience.

[Will Hunt]

You’ve got me psyched: I’ve just sent Mr Walker a permit request. Fingers crossed it stays dry.

Mr Walker only owns the bit with The Shootist and the approach originally described in the old YMC limestone guide. It's possible to walk in over the top from Austwick with no need to contact Mr Walker (the originally described parking isn't really suitable for one car, let alone any more).

[Felix14]

Good to hear NY!

Yes Will that's good to point out. It's obviously a longer walk but depends whether you enjoy emailing or not I suppose. Definitely a good option for doing the sport stuff.

I've also cleaned Barracuda and The Great White. I think in some guides the topo for Barracuda is a bit misleading at the start. It's best to start up Blue Angel/Stairway up a tricky, bold wall to start. Then move diagonally towards the Central Wall tree. The obvious more direct line up the wall is very loose.

Both routes are necky to start but after are well protected and make great onsight/ground up propositions.