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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 268543 times)

Kingy

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#550 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 22, 2018, 08:39:32 pm
Great news Mark, I'll have a look at this. Makes sense to have these routes climbed rather than mouldering away....

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#551 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 26, 2018, 05:27:32 pm
I cleaned and climbed ‘Only Human’ on front of rivelin needle today. Amazingly good moves on very scrittly and some friable rock. Really worth checking out if your a Rivelin fan, Grimer must have done it back in the day, I’ve still got his jumpy wooler to complete the ‘collection’

ian dunn

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#552 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 29, 2018, 08:24:59 pm
Quite a bit of tidying up at Malham in the last week, New belay on Free and Even Easier the previous one was seriously fucked, plus re positioning the third bolt,  Consenting bolts sorted out so you aren’t going to deck from the crux! Against The Grain and Taking the Space bolts added where you are clipping from wet under cuts and Career by Prospects a direct start added and the situ wire placed with a glued in resin bolt.

shark

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#553 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 31, 2018, 01:25:45 pm
Quite a bit of tidying up at Malham in the last week, New belay on Free and Even Easier the previous one was seriously fucked, plus re positioning the third bolt,  Consenting bolts sorted out so you aren’t going to deck from the crux! Against The Grain and Taking the Space bolts added where you are clipping from wet under cuts and Career by Prospects a direct start added and the situ wire placed with a glued in resin bolt.

Good work Ian. That third bolt on Free and Even Easier is a joy to clip now.

One suggestion for any future work. The grey glue smeared around that bolt looks a bit unslightly as it is in white rock so maybe look to wipe it off for future bolts you place in white rock.   

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#554 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
November 12, 2018, 01:02:53 pm
Brief vid of ‘only human’ quick end of day redpoint after cleaning and working. A bit lazy really, must do better  :spank:

Watch Only Human on Vimeo:

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#555 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 29, 2018, 08:06:42 pm
Popped to Rivelin today and gave ‘Big Al’ a clean. It was very scrittly. Opted to lead it with climbing up to the peg on Plague and clipping it before doing the direct start. This would have been ok-ish with 4 pads and probably highball font 7b. I’d go for e5 6c rather than English 7a  easier than Declaration on the needle which is 7a.



Wood FT

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#556 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 29, 2018, 10:20:25 pm
Brief vid of ‘only human’ quick end of day redpoint after cleaning and working. A bit lazy really, must do better  :spank:

Watch Only Human on Vimeo:

Only just watched this with sound, I really like Cat Power, have you seen her 'speak for trees' videos on youtube? Such brilliant nothingness

DAVETHOMAS90

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#557 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 30, 2018, 02:42:41 pm
I didn't like the music! In fact, I nearly switched the video off.
Such brilliant nothingness is what I thought you'd have without the music.

Good to see the more obscure stuff being climbed, and videos are always good "get off the couch" fodder.

Dan, separately, I can't remember if I asked you, do you have any photos or video from Declaration? I seem to remember we may have said something about it previously. Great that it's given 7a, which was always Dave's proud moment and "Declaration".

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#558 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 30, 2018, 03:55:04 pm
Hey up chaps :) yeah I’m up and down with music on climbing vids. As monkey boy? Recently mentioned on here no music takes you into the experience a bit more and is less off putting. That said I like Cat Powers so it is what it is I guess. Had a look at the vids on YouTube Guy, I like the cicadas and lofi vibe, reminds me I don’t make enough time in life for ‘nothingness’, cheers. I’ve posted the declaration vid below Dave, what a great set of moves. Can’t think of anything harder on the edge, quarries excluded of course  :ohmy:

Edit: have you looked at the ‘Disintergration loops’ Guy? Worth a ganders

Watch Declaration Rivelin Needle on Vimeo:

Re-edit of Big Al

Watch Big Al (Original version with direct start) on Vimeo:
« Last Edit: December 30, 2018, 04:20:03 pm by Dan Cheetham »

DAVETHOMAS90

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#559 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 30, 2018, 04:45:35 pm
Great stuff Dan.

Plenty of people will prefer the music of course, and I think it's important to keep to your own expressive instincts, rather than just adapting to opinion.

I think we may have passed on the Declaration video. Thanks for re-posting. Should get out there on it myself.

All the best for the New Year!  :thumbsup:

Actually, I love that Declaration video. Find it really moving. Thanks.

Wood FT

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#560 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 30, 2018, 05:23:59 pm
I didn't like the music! In fact, I nearly switched the video off.
Such brilliant nothingness is what I thought you'd have without the music.

I tend to agree if the recording doesn't get ruined by the wind. This was more of an aside to kindred listener.

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#561 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
December 30, 2018, 06:12:00 pm

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#562 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
January 05, 2019, 07:23:07 pm
More mid range punterizing at Rivelin again. Can’t get enough of the place 😂 this route I thought was a bit weird. Clinker - make a move on a pebble in the scoop then reach the right arête? Anyway gave it a dust / de scrittle on Ab, then did it this way. Has anyone else tried once you start rocking over you can’t move to the e1on the left. Quite a good move but couldn’t see any pebbles further right. Some very thin slopey nothings but I did have 3 split tips so hard to tell. Strangely bad conditions despite the temps


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#563 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
January 20, 2019, 09:56:37 pm
Anglezarke is the bees knees, wot a place. Popped there today for a mooch and found this line on Grey wall -I think it was Age of Reason but can’t be sure as wasn’t in the guide we had. Dare I mention them. Anyway cool moves and prob around e5 6b depending on how much you trust the rock quality and corroded peg.


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#564 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
January 20, 2019, 09:58:32 pm
Ps gotta love the new YouTube vibe. Goodbye 4K anamorphic, hello 320p lofi - ness

Will Hunt

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jwi

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#566 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 20, 2019, 03:59:22 pm
Nina Caprez has partially rebolted Mingus in Verdon (8a) and replaced all belays on it. She also checked the status of the pitons.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/verdon-nina-caprez-reequipe-mingus-300m-8a-verdon-mingus-300m-8a-rebolted-by-nina-caprez/

So now you can follow in Lynn Hill's footstep and casually onsight this route knowing that you don't have to clip rusty caving bolts from the late 80s, at least not on any of the hard parts ;)

Kingy

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#567 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 27, 2019, 01:49:51 pm
I cleaned Stogumber Club 7c+ on lower 2 Tier last night. Its the route to the left of Entree. Worth doing but gnarly! Here is a short video of it for beta (the second one after Flow)


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#568 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 27, 2019, 04:07:19 pm
Nice one Ted, how does this rate on the Peak 8a+ scale? (i.e. is it actually 8b?). Been interested in this ever since I belayed Joble on it, though he made it look hard and I put it in the 'till I'm a mutant...' list.

Kingy

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#569 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 27, 2019, 04:24:12 pm
Cheers Guy I thought it was about the same as the other 8a+s down at 2 Tier like Gonads and Ultralight. This was after my mate discovered a much easier way of doing the crux using your RH in a 2 finger gaston pocket to reach the crux sidepull by the 3rd bolt. I was pinching this hold with my thumb in that pocket before, which was much harder. I understand James was also trying it this way as he couldn't otherwise use the pocket (possibly as your fingers need to be quite thin) which is maybe why he commented that it was about the same grade as Kali Yuga. Its been 10 yrs since I did Kali but am inclined to think it is a tougher proposition than Flow.

Wood FT

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#570 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
June 27, 2019, 06:28:31 pm
Cheers Guy I thought it was about the same as the other 8a+s down at 2 Tier like Gonads and Ultralight. This was after my mate discovered a much easier way of doing the crux using your RH in a 2 finger gaston pocket to reach the crux sidepull by the 3rd bolt. I was pinching this hold with my thumb in that pocket before, which was much harder. I understand James was also trying it this way as he couldn't otherwise use the pocket (possibly as your fingers need to be quite thin) which is maybe why he commented that it was about the same grade as Kali Yuga. Its been 10 yrs since I did Kali but am inclined to think it is a tougher proposition than Flow.

 :thumbsup:

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#571 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2020, 10:15:51 am
Gave Disillusioned Screw Machine at WCJ Cornice a good scrub on Thursday. Someone else had been up it but it was still pretty filthy. Now just filthy hard.

Man could this crag could do with being re-equipped. Given Brachiation Dance is a 3 star 7b+ it’s pretty shocking the state of the bolts and the lower off being one bolt and another bolt with no chain or hanger.

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#572 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2020, 10:41:10 am
Gave Disillusioned Screw Machine at WCJ Cornice a good scrub on Thursday. Someone else had been up it but it was still pretty filthy. Now just filthy hard.

Thanks for that. I have been on that one a few times over the last few weeks and have been intermittently cleaning it. Was pretty grim a few weeks ago! That top crux is hard!

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#573 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2020, 10:48:19 am
Tbh I was shut down on the whole crux section. But then it is about F6b until the 3rd bolt so essentially 8a in 12 feet! From the good hold/edge/undercut at the start of the hard bit are you putting your left heel on the obvious big flatty and reaching up with your left hand to that crimp? I wasn’t using the small pocket/slot out left.

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#574 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
May 30, 2020, 10:58:20 am
Tbh I was shut down on the whole crux section. But then it is about F6b until the 3rd bolt so essentially 8a in 12 feet! From the good hold/edge/undercut at the start of the hard bit are you putting your left heel on the obvious big flatty and reaching up with your left hand to that crimp? I wasn’t using the small pocket/slot out left.

Yes. Exactly as you describe, reach up from low feet to mingling crimp with left hand, put left heel up, flag with right foot and then up with right hand to pinch and then snatch again with right hand to good hold. After that reach up with left hand to grim split crimp thing and put left heel up and right foot up and almost drop knee then snatch Gaston. After that I bring left hand up to pocket and bust up to the jug with left hand.
I think I would have been better leaving this one till later in the season when I was re-adjusted to minging Peak crimps.

Like you say 8a in about 12 feet

 

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