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Routes cleaned or re-equipped (Read 268552 times)

Andy B

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#475 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 03, 2016, 07:17:03 pm
Put a new thread and krab on the belay for 42nd Street today, but didn't have a knife to cut the old tat out, so it would be worth carrying a knife if anyone on here does it.

Wood FT

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#476 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 03, 2016, 07:47:27 pm
Put a new thread and krab on the belay for 42nd Street today, but didn't have a knife to cut the old tat out, so it would be worth carrying a knife if anyone on here does it.

nice one, fond memories of that route

Bonjoy

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#477 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 03, 2016, 09:03:05 pm
Cleaned Roadrunner at High tor, including pulling all the grass out of the upper half of A6. Backed up the tat on the peg (I also had forgot my knife), but didn't have anything to replace the thread with (needs 50cm of thin tape and a bit of wire to thread it through the placement).

Hydraulic Man

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#478 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 06, 2016, 03:17:13 pm
A Millers Tale recleaned and was "dusted and busted" this morning by Conners.

Andy Barker gave his blessing to back the peg up with a new bolt and the thread on the top wall replaced. It is most certainly E6 to onsight. Great route, 3 stars.

Excalibur on Moat Buttress will be tidied up tomorrow. All old 8mms replaced with new stainless and the situ wire backed up by new bolt. 2 new threads and a new belay. Just one wire for top groove which looks ok.

Looks a fantastic route but may need a few more days to dry. Thanks to Andy P for the go ahead.

HM

shark

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#479 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 06, 2016, 08:14:38 pm
A Millers Tale recleaned and was "dusted and busted" this morning by Conners.

Andy Barker gave his blessing to back the peg up with a new bolt and the thread on the top wall replaced. It is most certainly E6 to onsight. Great route, 3 stars

Was the bolt really necessary? The peg can be backed up by wires

a dense loner

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#480 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 06, 2016, 09:02:49 pm
Good god can no one do anything of help anymore!

DAVETHOMAS90

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#481 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 06, 2016, 10:32:40 pm
A Millers Tale recleaned and was "dusted and busted" this morning by Conners.

Andy Barker gave his blessing to back the peg up with a new bolt and the thread on the top wall replaced. It is most certainly E6 to onsight. Great route, 3 stars

Was the bolt really necessary? The peg can be backed up by wires

Quite.

I think it would be great if a lot of the old trad test pieces remained that way. Just because the FA endorses the retro bolt, that's a very small sample of opinion. If it's the equipping/re-equipping of sport routes, then do it right, but let's not just go ahead and start r-bolting everything on the say so of one person.

It's great to have the full spectrum of the trad experience on Peak rock, and fantastic that the whole re-cleaning effort seems to be gaining some momentum, so wouldn't it be great to preserve that where possible?

Besides, I need the excuse of tricky gear when I'm feeling wimpish.

Bonjoy

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#482 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 07, 2016, 10:14:28 am
What's the sketch with getting to the bottom of Excalibur, does it not start above water?

Andy P

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#483 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 07, 2016, 10:51:12 am
In fairness to HM re: Excalibur, he felt it polite to flag his intentions via a PM.
'Tis of no consequence to me as I live 12,000 miles away and haven't climbed for 24 years. I said 'go for your life mate', take care.
Its not like there's now three bolts on Skinhead Moonstomp ...

DAVETHOMAS90

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#484 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 07, 2016, 02:25:14 pm
In fairness to HM re: Excalibur, he felt it polite to flag his intentions via a PM.
'Tis of no consequence to me as I live 12,000 miles away and haven't climbed for 24 years. I said 'go for your life mate', take care.
Its not like there's now three bolts on Skinhead Moonstomp ...

..which had a very stylish ascent at the weekend - not by me, I might add. Looked great. Fantastic to be back at the big cliff. Was going to PM you.

I don't know about fairness to HM. It was a good opportunity to say that many people don't like the assumption that any route is fair game to be retro'd on the FA's say so. I was referring to Miller's Tale. I don't know about Excalibur, as I've never been on it - the tights always put me off  ;D

kc

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#485 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 07, 2016, 04:12:21 pm
When the water level is low around Rubicon the start of Excalibur is easily reachable. You may want to chuck a few rocks and bits of drift wood in the mud below the start to keep your boots clean.
Last autumn I was starting to prepare Drawbridge the 7c to the left again and was ok. Still needs a few more bolts before it's ready. Best bit is it climbs out left over the water and turns back right so you can lower off over land.

Please make sure there are no nesting birds below these routes.

Andy P

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#486 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 08, 2016, 06:57:28 am
In fairness to HM re: Excalibur, he felt it polite to flag his intentions via a PM.
'Tis of no consequence to me as I live 12,000 miles away and haven't climbed for 24 years. I said 'go for your life mate', take care.
Its not like there's now three bolts on Skinhead Moonstomp ...

..which had a very stylish ascent at the weekend - not by me, I might add. Looked great. Fantastic to be back at the big cliff. Was going to PM you.

I don't know about fairness to HM. It was a good opportunity to say that many people don't like the assumption that any route is fair game to be retro'd on the FA's say so. I was referring to Miller's Tale. I don't know about Excalibur, as I've never been on it - the tights always put me off  ;D

The tights Dave, surely not?
The premise of my previous post is that it's of no consequence to me. The 'youngstars' mind the crags these days ...




shark

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#487 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 08, 2016, 09:00:26 am
The premise of my previous post is that it's of no consequence to me. The 'youngstars' mind the crags these days ...

As if. KC is no spring chicken now and HM lacks both youth and star quality.  ;D

kc

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#488 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 08, 2016, 09:24:37 am
And most of the youngsters are to lazy. The rogue bolters tend to be  50+.

haydn jones

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#489 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 08, 2016, 02:15:35 pm
Anyone got zippy's contact info he lives near me and said if i needed to borrow his drill give him a message but he never gave me his number! D'oh!

thinking of putting a few bolts in.

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#490 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 08, 2016, 02:22:34 pm
Anyone got zippy's contact info he lives near me and said if i needed to borrow his drill give him a message but he never gave me his number! D'oh!

thinking of putting a few bolts in.

Ive just texted you it

Andy B

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#491 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 10, 2016, 08:29:09 pm
We cleaned Dragonflight and replaced the threads in the upper break today.

kc

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#492 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 24, 2016, 07:01:29 pm
Drawbridge down when the levee breaks 7C has been reequipped.
Use the stepping stones at low tide and climb out over the water. The lower off will bring you back down over land.
 If anyone fancies a go, could they take a collection of spanners (old 8mm troll Lego's, cassin rusty rings). Leave the Petzl bolt for the girdle as that wants to be clipped.
Please retreat from this area if there is any sign of nesting and leave the flora and fauna intact. Triple S I and all that.

kc

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#493 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
July 24, 2016, 07:14:16 pm
Ignore the topo in the latest guide. It is an independent line and does not traverse out of the choss pile to the right.

haydn jones

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#494 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 01, 2016, 09:12:17 pm
Whats the deal with the routes to the right? Do they finish strait up over the bulge like the line in the guide(i have the old wrong fax guide) or do they traverse all the way rightward also theres another line of bolts between the e6 and let the tripe increase what is this? Or is it somebodys proj?

kc

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#495 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 01, 2016, 11:47:35 pm
http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/WCJ-Moat%20Buttress.htm

This is similar to the new guide and also shows line 1 traversing out of the choss. It starts direct from the waters edge.

Neil F

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#496 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 07, 2016, 06:41:03 pm
Chatsworth Edge - Spiral Route. Some interesting industrial archaeology revealed from beneath carpets of vegetation....

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#497 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 07, 2016, 08:22:17 pm
Does Chatsworth Edge catch any sort of breeze?
Always been put off by the lack of gap between Midgie season/ green north facing rock season.

mark20

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#498 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
August 14, 2016, 09:38:38 pm
Continuing KC's Lammergeyer revival, I've rebolted and glued up The Fall, possibly nudging 8a now a band of chossy undercuts have gone. Good and fingery

mark20

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#499 Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
October 03, 2016, 04:59:41 pm
Rebolted 'A Man Called Horse' a fingery vert 7b+ at Moving Buttress, Cheedale. It looks like it originally finished right of the top bolt to a good flake, but there is potential for a bouldery direct finish, at a similar grade (there's a good rest).
The wall to the right is harder and even fingery-er, My Lovely Horse 7c.

 

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