[abarro81]

Couldn't see anything in a search, so...
Any tall and weak people got good beta for the drop down at the end? Tried it for the first time today and struggling to get anywhere with this move. Do most people do it how unclesomebody does in his youtube vid?

[r-man]

If you're tall you can lank the last move, but behind your back people will tut and mutter. No 7c tick for that! As long as you have left hand in the pocket and bring right hand to the undercut, anything goes, I think... (though I'm aware I may be sternly reprimanded for this suggestion)

Most people do it as per unclesomebody's vid. I've heard it's possible to get a toehook in using this method. You can also egyptian to get undercut, which I did as it felt less tenuous, but then there's still a hard move to shift your trailing foot.

[abarro81]

By lank the move do you mean using go-again sequences rather than drop downs? I was under the - perhaps misinformed - impression that this was 'cheating' for the powerband tick? Or is it just looked down on? I found the toe hook (both high one on L of pillar and low one on R of pillar) but it seemed to make it harder in some crazy way.

[r-man]

Yes, it's cheating. That's the message I was attempting to convey.

The toehook never worked for me either. Anyway, it's limestone. It's Raven Tor. The beta is: PULL HARDER. 

Just keep trying the last move. Suddenly it will click.

[The Sausage]

Going again isn't cheating, it's not powerband. You haven't done it in any sense whatsoever if you don't drop down to the undercling off the pocket. As R-Man says, just pull harder. There aren't really any tricks, get your feet bridged between the back wall and the pillar, and lurch down for the undercling.

[Kingy]

I sacked off the egyptian method as wack in the end. Easier to get the undercut and then nails to jump your RF down to the ledge as your left foot is then too high. Best to man up for the vague bridge between right wall and pillar. Try tiny spike for LF which is higher than tall person's left foothold and polished small square right foothold up and right of the big low edge for RF. You sort of back step off the RF and your feet are not too low. Works pretty well for those not tall enough for the low footholds.

[dave]

It makes me laugh when people get all precious about people not using the "original sequence" and lanking through at the end of powerband, yet are quite happy to lank through the pinch bit in the middle using all the big footholds that never used to be there and that really short people can't use anyway. bear in mind the middle bit used to be the crux. I'm guessing most people taking the holier-than-thou stance on powerband end conveniently forget the middle bit.

climbing from the beginning to the end using everything; a great 7c (bottom end?), call it what you want.

[r-man]

climbing from the beginning to the end using everything; a great 7c (bottom end?), call it what you want.

Crap.

[Jaspersharpe]

Hmmm. If you climb from begining to end using everything then that would include being able to drop down to the mono and miss out the middle moves as well as missing out the pocket move at the end by swinging straight from jug to pillar.

This is still a good problem but it isn't Powerband and I don't think it would warrant 7C as it's a lot easier than the "original" way. I originally did the problem very quickly this way (as it was shown to me by Zippy as the easier version) and then worked on first doing the middle bit properly and then the middle bit and the end properly. Likewise with Staminaband. I never felt that I had actually done either problem til I'd eliminated the easier moves but I know other people were happy enough using the lank method at the end and taking the tick.

It's a good point re the footholds but it's slightly different if they just make the same moves easier to actually missing out the move on the pocket at the end. Is it even possible for everyone to do the middle moves in the "original" way now? I know I used lower footholds than some people and if these have now improved then I would either have to use them or artificially make the problem harder for myself than it originally was by using the higher holds. Either way I'd still want to be doing that end move to get the Powerband tick as anything else is, well, something else to me. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Oh and in answer to the OP I generally used the egyptian and as Kingy said the crux was moving your foot down after getting the undercut. The vague bridge method makes for a harder move to get your hand down but then it's pretty much all over.

[dave]

Hmmm. If you climb from begining to end using everything then that would include being able to drop down to the mono and miss out the middle moves

i woulnd't lose sleep over it, but i think the notion of the low mono way being easier isn't applicable these days - I think this method came about before the big footholds appeared, and then I gather it was actually an easier sequence - these days I think it would actually be harder than doing it the normal way - hence why you never see anyone doing it this way (or at least i haven't).

[Jaspersharpe]

I didn't realise that the footholds had made that much difference as dropping down to the mono used to be way easier. Interesting.

[Johnny Brown]

Wow. The shittest problem in the peak looks shit, but is actually even shitter. Not only is it a low traverse, its an eliminate. I really think if it hadn't been Jerry who did these they would have been laughed off the historical record.

[account_inactive]

If it wasn't for the great powerful climbing.......

[SA Chris]

Wow. The shittest problem in the peak looks shit, but is actually even shitter. Not only is it a low traverse, its an eliminate. I really think if it hadn't been Jerry who did these they would have been laughed off the historical record.

Harsh words, softly spoken.

[Jaspersharpe]

Wow. The shittest problem in the peak looks shit, but is actually even shitter. Not only is it a low traverse, its an eliminate. I really think if it hadn't been Jerry who did these they would have been laughed off the historical record.

Hogwash. I don't give a toss who did it first, the climbing is great. 

[Andy B]

If it was that bad people would just get the tick (for historical/ FA significance or whatever) and never do it again, and yet loads of people keep coming back and doing it time and again. There are more and more non-eliminate alternative problems on limestone, and yet this is, i suspect, still the most popular boulder problem on british lime (except for 1, 8, 14 obviously). Doesn't sound like the shittest problem in the peak to me.

[unclesomebody]

Wow. The shittest problem in the peak looks shit, but is actually even shitter. Not only is it a low traverse, its an eliminate. I really think if it hadn't been Jerry who did these they would have been laughed off the historical record.

Seconded. I only did it because I was moving in the footsteps of Ben and Jerry. As far as I'm concerned it's shit. Strict blueband has far better moves, but it's still not very good.

[Andy B]

I only did it because I was moving in the footsteps of Ben and Jerry.

and if all the footholds have changed you weren't even doing that!

What a waste of your time!

[Stubbs]

Aren't the people who come back and do it time and again just trying to get fit enough to  do staminaband 

[Bonjoy]

I think it climbs really nice. You've got to make the most of what's to hand. Castle Hill's a bit too far from S7 for my after work sessions. I pity you climbers who's high standards stop you enjoying your local crags.

[dave]

I pity you climbers who's high standards stop you enjoying your local crags.

never was a truer word spoken.

[Andy B]

Aren't the people who come back and do it time and again just trying to get fit enough to  do staminaband 

Nope. I see plenty of people who've already done staminaband still playing on Powerband, plus some that do Staminaband time and again.

[Jim]

There are much better local crags for those living in sheffield.
Thankfully us mancs have hobson moor and wimberry which was in great condition last night

[dave]

There are much better local crags for those living in sheffield.

I hear the plantation is an amazing choice for those humid midgey 25degree july evenings when its lashing down with rain. Plus throw into that mix the excellent sport routes on offer and you've sold me - I WILL NEVER GO TO THE TOR AGAIN.