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Another problem at Burbage South (Read 4104 times)

travs

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Another problem at Burbage South
June 09, 2008, 08:45:05 am
Did a nice mantel problem at Burbage South on Saturday. It looks pretty inocouous but is harder you might think. Its located on a small boulder next to the path half way between Forked Lightening Crack and the Knack. Its very low to the ground and at the quoted grade no aretes are used. Start hanging the lip and mantle up on a variety of small seams, named 'Mini Mantle' graded 7a. On another note, does anybody know about the variety of problems below attitude inspector? Namely, great roof and prow, sit start between two boulders about 6c, and then next to this a blunt arete to slopey top out and to the right a lurch of a right hand side pull with feet on smears to another slopey top out?

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 09, 2008, 09:04:00 am
 They were both done by Iain Farrar a couple of year back, but I can't remember details. Vaguely recall 7c being mention for the LH one but could be wrong.

travs

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#2 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 09, 2008, 09:10:59 am
Thanks for that Bonjoy, 7c would sound about right.

Percy B

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#3 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 09, 2008, 09:53:23 am
Has anybody done the ramp and arete right of the route No Zag (just right of the area Travs is on about)? Its been brushed, but I dunno if its been done - has a spicy move to the break quite high up. I repeated Travs problem The Neck on Saturday (twice as it happens!) - its very good, but quite sharp. 7b seems about right.

dave

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#4 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 09, 2008, 10:00:39 am
yeah, its been mentioned on here recently:


cofe's photo

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 09, 2008, 10:05:21 am
Quote
Has anybody done the ramp and arete right of the route No Zag (just right of the area Travs is on about)? Its been brushed, but I dunno if its been done - has a spicy move to the break quite high up

This is Gib's Rib, though I don't remember a ramp? Worthwhile, 7a+.

Percy B

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#6 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 08:42:38 am
You say rib, I say ramp, lets call the whole thing off....
Thats the problem - its very good.

Somebody's Fool

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#7 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 01:40:08 pm
It is very good.  Also more like 7a.

Conditions were horrendous when JB repeated it.


Johnny Brown

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#8 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 05:05:05 pm
In trainers. The two factors may have contributed to my overgrading.

Pantontino

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#9 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 07:03:02 pm
Yeah but we all know that you've got 'special' trainers - seem to have some sort of glue on the bottom. How else could a man/monkey thing stick to the crag with such carefree abandon I ask you?

(or maybe JB has just got a pair of those fancy Daescents - if that's a trainer, then my pet dog is in fact an elephant)

Jim

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#10 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 08:18:57 pm
In trainers. The two factors may have contributed to my overgrading.
should we downgrade wss now then?

Somebody's Fool

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#11 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 08:46:13 pm
Not yet petal.

That can wait til you've done it.

Jim

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#12 Re: Another problem at Burbage South
June 11, 2008, 09:29:18 pm
thank fuck for that

 

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