[BenF]

We're planning on spending a few weeks in Switzerland this summer and amongst the bouldering and running up and down hills, I have to ensure that there is plenty of route climbing done too.  I have little idea of what there is sport climbing wise in Switzerland, having only climbed mountains or been bouldering there so far and my searches on the web haven't been that forthcoming yet. 

Basically we're after single pitch or multi-pitch sport climbing, on almost any kind of rock (as long as its solid).  Has anyone got any suggestions?  Obviously a Swiss version of Ailefroide, the Chamonix Valley or Ceuse would be great, but in reality areas with good sports crags and a variety of grades would nice.  We've decided not to take snow gear this year so approaches need to be simple but a "mountain feel" to the routes would also be cool.  Basically has anyone got any suggestions/advice on sports climbing in Switzerland? 

Thanks in advance.

[SteveM]

Did some bolted stuff in the Saas valley last year. The best was on the Dri Horlini, all just a few minutes walk from the Almageller hut which had the cutest blonde guardians who cooked the scrummiest apple cake for miles around. Approach to the hut took a couple of hours but the uplift took care of the steepest height gain 

Panorama of the crag:


We were there for trad & alpine stuff so there's probably better elsewhere in Swissland.

[robertostallioni]

Have only done limited sport in Swiz but there are 2 uber crags and another highly recommended. Lehn is apparently the best climbing (most varied in route anywhere). Voralpsee- pad deep ripples, edges and sidepulls on a 15 degree wall for 30 metres....and Chinese wall - Chinesische Mauer is also highly rated.

Peace out

[Jim]

The crag at the top of cresciano looked quality. However it will be fucking boiling up there in the summer

[BenF]

Hmm...  good news so far, thanks guys.  Lehn in particular sounds proper boss and I will check it out in more detail. 

[robertostallioni]

Just checked Lehn and Voralpsee details on 8a.nu.
Lehn is spot on. Sandstone, but climbs like lime/gritstone mix. Crimps, slopers, everyting at every grade! Voralpsee  requires forearms of popeye. 8a routes and up for quality. They have a couple of phots too. I remember Karl B and the boy Napier going five/ six years ago to lehn and Chinesichemauer and Chris C loving voralpsee.

[robertostallioni]

Found a chinese wall review by Toby Dunn on cragx website (article issue No.14)

[BenF]

Thanks for the further research Roberto, much appreciated.

[Norton Sharley]

Can't remember what the Swiss guidebooks are called but you are welcome to borrow them (pm me).

Crags round Interlaken are ok but not worth travelling all that way to in their own right.

Gastlossen is fantastic for mountain atmosphere, single and multi pitch routes, free camping (but I didn't say so), 30 mins walk in and a great refuge.

The grey Swiss guide has directions to it, then go to the refuge for latest routes.  Will dig out some piccies and post on flikr group later.

[AndyR]

Climbed in Spazzacaldera many moons ago - think it mostly fits your bill - nice couple of pitch cragging in super mountain setting - you get a cable car up.
Some info here http://www.campingacquafraggia.com/spazza_en.htm

[BenF]

Cool, thanks Andy.  Looks pretty pleasant environment, maybe as nice as climbing in the cave on a summers evening.

Norton, thanks for the kind offer of guidebooks.  I ordered and received the Plaisir Ost and Plaisir West guidebooks (published by Filidor) earlier in the week and they seem to fit the bill with page after page of multipitch routes on granite, gneiss and limestone in the mountains, as well as plenty of lower level sport crag opportunities.  Although the guides only really cover the lower grades under 7a, they seem perfect for much of the trip and I'm certain that I can get topos for harder crags when I arrive.  So it looks like we'll have plenty of choice of longish, mixed protection routes in the mountains without needing too much commitment (think Aig Rouges rather than getting involved in a route on the Dru).  Pretty fuckin' psyched after looking at the photos and topos in the guides. 

[SA Chris]

Ben, mentioned it before, but chech out the Miroir d Argentiere in the Plaisir West. Amazing bit of rock.

[SA Chris]

Spazzacaldera

Sounds like a volcano for stupid people?

[BenF]

Ben, mentioned it before, but chech out the Miroir d Argentiere in the Plaisir West. Amazing bit of rock.

Yeah, it's been in the back of my mind for a while and since getting the guide this week, it's been in the front!  Looks brilliant.  Always heard about this amazing slab, but never got round to travelling over there on any of my numerous trips to Chamonix and nearby.

[SA Chris]

The direct is probably H/VS and nicely sustained. The bottom is a bit scrappy - grooves / chimneys (with one exciting letter box - remove pack and clip to other rope!) but once on the slab it's just amazing. Guide bolted, but a small rack makes it a lot more enjoyable.

Doss / freecamp in the valley - the hostel is silly money. Saw a couple of potentially interesting boulders.

[BenF]

Thanks Chris, we'll head over there at some point on the back of that recommendation. 

[AndyR]

Spazzacaldera

Sounds like a volcano for stupid people?