[Greg C]

Sorry for being a bit slow, do you mean the right hand crimp in the steepness of Art of Self Destruction/Crucifix Kiss?  Presumably you feel it would make AOSD a little easier too then?

No my post was crap and unclear. I was trying to talk about the crimp/ pinch thing on beauty of being numb. The 7b at the left hand end of tom's that gaskins does on stick it. This is the problem with the hold that has snapped!

I can't understand why someone would actually discard the hold, you would have thought they would have just left it in an obvious place so it could be glued back, ah well.

In terms of the climbing: I anticipated (as I'm sure anyone who climbs here did) that the pinch would eventually fall off a few years back and climbed TBOBN without this hold, it's a touch harder, 7b+ maybe. You essentially do the same move to the lip, but all the way from the starting slot. TBOBC will be a fair bit harder, although I have tried this without the pinch and it's definitely possible.

[BenF]

TBOBN without this hold, it's a touch harder, 7b+ maybe. You essentially do the same move to the lip, but all the way from the starting slot.

Ah well, gives me something "new" to do up there.

[(woz)]

Went to Tom's last Thursday to try beauty of being numb after managing crucifix kiss the weekend before. Noticed that the right hand crimp hold had snapped off! The hold had seemed loose at the weekend but it seems to have snapped of in a bit of a peculiar way. There was no sign of the hold on the ground to rescue. Can anyone shed any light on this and has anyone done it since the hold has snapped? It is definitely still doable but I don't know if it would get the same grade? possibly easier

I don't understand - I climbed BOBN on saturday (24th), and didn't notice any difference. The rattly pinch is defo still there. Didn't see any other signs of damage. Just for the record, I didn't leave any litter, and brushed a fair few tickmarks off WOR.

[Ru]

And I did it on Sunday and the pinch was still there. It did look to have some glue on it though, so perhaps the mystery is getting closer to being solved.

[GCW]

I don't know why I'm bothering, but:
1.  I'm glad the hold is still there.
2.  Greg, it wasn't patronising.  It was saying that you do a great job looking after, and documenting, your local crags.  I'm sure everyone applauds you for that.  I felt (and still do) that you were heavy handed Re:  Andi.  That's my opinion (and Lizzy's it seems), yours is different.  Sobeit, we're all entitled to opinions and if they weren't all different things would be boring.  The same sides thing is what it says, we want to respect our crags and ensure they are kept clean and access maintained.  If you felt it to be patronising, I'm sorry, but it wasn't meant to be.

Only on the net could such a stupid argument occur over something so daft.
Enough now.  Too much off topic.

Anyone got any beta for Beauty Of Being Crucified?

[andyheb]

And I did it on Sunday and the pinch was still there. It did look to have some glue on it though, so perhaps the mystery is getting closer to being solved.

When i was there thursday 22nd the top of the rattley pinch thing had snapped of leaving a leftwards slanting crimp for your right hand. Haven't been since so I hoping it has been glued back in place. I'll have a look tommorrow when i head out for another go.

!

Anyone got any beta for Beauty Of Being Crucified?

I think the key to BOBN is getting your left heel into place and really pulling in on it but couldn't be sure as I ain't done it yet

[MB]

Okay, just to confirm that the hold was well stuck on when i was there last night. No more wobble.

[GCW]

Just been.  It looks to me like the hold came out, along with the chock on its left that held it solid.  It's been glued back without the chock bit:



What this means is you can now get more of your thumb on the pinch, but crimp the top less as it's more flush.  The move felt a tad easier, but I'd still think 7b was fair.

[Moo]

please don't hate me for linking to Ukclimbing again i saw this the other week

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=299234&v=1#x4429275 

does bentleys biceps post on here under a different name?

[GCW]

That was a troll.  It was posted on 3rd May, I was there on the 8th and all was normal.  The breakage must have happened around the start of last week.  I assume when Andy went on 22nd May it had just come off and someone was holding onto it in order to glue it back.

[moose]

timeline makes sense - I was at Woodwell on the 15th May and the hold was its rattley old self.