[tomboulderer]

Anyone have any videos of spring voyage 7c next to the buckstone dyno. I need beta!

[Andy B]

There's one on the moon web site, but it doesn't give much away as it's filmed from above.

[tomboulderer]

yeah, i checked that one. I think i have a good idea of how to do it. Good conditions and a new layer of skin should do it!

[cofe]

think it's on winter sessions too.

[tomboulderer]

Sweet not seen winter sessions yet, will have to check that out, thanks.

[Jim]

there was a thread about this years ago, have a search.
2 methods, either get the crimp with right and throw for top with left hand or;
match crimp, but foot in big chipped hold and throw to top with right hand

[GCW]

I was trying the matched method years ago.  Could match but then I was screwed.  Didn't think to try the non-match method.  I found it very condition dependent.  Good luck.

[Jim]

I can't reach the crimp, have been pushed on but can't span between the holds = morpho

also like GCW says, wrong time of year for this
and there are plenty of much better problems to do in the peak

[GCW]

This is what I tried (bearing in mind I never finished it):
Hands in break.  I seem to remember LH on a sidepully thing.  RF smear low, LF in break.  Get edge with RH.  Heel/toe thing with LF, match hands.  Dunno after that.
Be aware I'm 6'2", ape index -4 (ie 71" span) and it was pretty stretched out for me.  I'm sure there's a better method though.  Sorry, not a lot of help.

[dave]

i have tried this every which way and still come up with no cigarillo, so that should scotch the notion that its easy for the tall. the only easy sequence is with a runup.

you can match, or try to pull through without matching, or even try and go again with right hand. all nails. The only thing i would say is, in my opinion, using the buckstone carved holds ain't cricket. you're climbing "the wall left of the dyno", not "the wall left of, but also including holds on (when you get a bit stumped), the dyno".

[GCW]

True, that is.  No chips.  Not that it would help me much
Wait for a cold, crisp day- that rail feels so much better.

[Drew]

Be aware I'm 6'2", ape index -4 (ie 71" span)

6'2" = 74"
74"-4" = 70"
No?

[GCW]

6'2" = 74"
74"-4" = 70"
No?

Yup.  -3 it is.  Sorry, my mental arithmetic is evidently slipping.

[robertostallioni]

Be aware I'm 6'2", ape index -4 (ie 71" span) and it was pretty stretched out for me. 

Like this?

[Drew]

More like this at -3 or 4



 

[GCW]

Bunch o' bastards. 

[granticus]

It's most definitely morpho.....  ie. If you can't span between the holds there is no other way, it is impossible.

Once saw the Dawes attempting it and then going into a rant  about how crap new boulder problems are  that they aren't hard at all and just reach dependent  I'm sure I could do this if I could bluddy reach etc. etc..   

I'm 5''10 and ape index is -1'' and I was nowhere near spanning between the holds..  If you don't have the reach don't bother because you won't do it.

[Jim]

also its not a very good problem. did I mention this already?

[Johnny Brown]

Its actually ok, not great but not bad. Better than anyhting on peak lime for instance. Or in the lakes, on any rock. But I digress, its very conditions dependent and also harsh on the skin.

I've used the left-hand chipped hole each time I've done it. Its not actually an eliminate like this, feel free to use it for your hands as well, I'm not convinced it makes it easier. The trick on the span is not to get too greedy with the undercut. Get it well, pull on, then slide it out until only the tip of the middle finger is on the hold, then try the reach. I find a funny technique where you are almost in balance and the reach is done basically by unbending the left knee. The other tip is to make sure your shoulders and arms form a straight line so you make the most of your reach. I have a big span but am not tall.

[Andy B]

It's most definitely morpho.....  ie. If you can't span between the holds there is no other way, it is impossible.

I'm 5''10 and ape index is -1'' and I was nowhere near spanning between the holds..  If you don't have the reach don't bother because you won't do it.

If you don't have the span to reach from the good hold it is still possible to get to the slopers using the following sequence:

LH jug undercut, RH pressing down on break, RF on poor triangular pebble to the right of the usual footholds. Pull on and get a left heel toe in the break, flip your right hand to palm off the top of the break directly underneath the righthand (lowest) sloper, bring your left hand over to match by your right hand, palming the break as an undercut, hang out slightly and deadpoint to the sloper whilst releasing the left hand slightly, but then catching your tips near the lip as you hit the sloper with your right.

This probably won't work for the shortest of spans but works at least down to a span of 5' 8" (me). Unfortunately this is obviously harder than just reaching the sloper from the jug, and as I only get this far one in three goes it makes working the crux that much harder, and I haven't managed the whole problem yet. Sliding around on the slopey undercuts is also even worse on the skin, especially when my foot blows off the pebble, which it does every other go.

I had also assumed that the big chip was out, but I'll try using that next time.

Hopefully this will put Spring Voyage back on one or two peoples tick list, who may have written it off.

Although morpho, it's clearly not a shit problem.

[dave]

using a kneebar i've also managed to reach to the rail, similar to bank's way, without undercutting anything in the lower break in any conventional manner. kneebar may work for people less than tall but taller than 5'8". in good nick you can also pull off the ground on the poorer of the 2 lefthand undercuts, gains you a few inches extra reach.

[Andy B]

using a kneebar i've also managed to reach to the rail, similar to bank's way, without undercutting anything in the lower break in any conventional manner.

If your not undercutting like fuck on the break then it ain't similar to my way. The knee bar will only work if your tall anyway.

[dave]

i think i had like a wrist/palming undercut. "like fuck" is subjective. Not on the normal hold was the point it was trying to get across though.

[Andy B]

"like fuck" is subjective.

Sorry. To be more specific "like fuck" means "harder than you can," girlfriend.

You still have to be tall to do it off the kneebar is the point I was trying to get across though.