Austrian Bird Climbs 8B (Read 13694 times)

no no paul,
i know it's something important, if you get on the news, to have things clear and honest.
mine was the comment of a man thrown into work, with a flesh that's turning grey from the neon lights.

Jim · May 27, 2008, 05:47:17 pm

majority take 8b

http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Magic+Wood&AscentName=Pura+Vida&AscentType=1

Paul B · May 27, 2008, 08:12:04 pm

I have to say i'm still more than a little dubious.

dobbin · May 27, 2008, 08:28:24 pm

Nige and I looked at this and it looked like a very swiss 8b to be honest. There are actually good holds on it for instance. Thats not to say it isnt, as neither of us pulled on, but it looked distinctly more feasible than other problems at that grade. Taking a grade consensus off 8a.nu is an interesting one - you could argue that this is what people think it is and thats why they put it down as that, or you could argue that people are putting down what it says in the topo and not what they think it actually is? how many take the guidebook grade, and how many are honest enough to claim what they actually thought it was worth? I take guidebook grades. Except if I think they are miles out. Oh, its all subjective, one mans poison blah blah and all that - its a great effort by a very talented young climber, lets not get over excited about whether it is or it isnt. Well done Barbara.

Omega · May 27, 2008, 09:47:47 pm

defo a midget

http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/1890.jpg

grumpycrumpy · May 28, 2008, 12:33:26 am

Quote from: r-man on May 27, 2008, 03:15:17 pm

Awesome stuff.

Either those mats are twice as large as normal, or Barbara is a very tiny human.

The mats are normal sized , she's just a long way away from them ..

GCW · May 28, 2008, 12:41:54 am

Chris Core in action, labelled as 8a+ here:

Gotta say, the line doesn't inspire me. Sorry

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 07:17:30 am

Quote from: Jim on May 27, 2008, 05:47:17 pm

majority take 8B

Golly! What a total surprise!

Jaspersharpe · May 28, 2008, 07:53:43 am

I was going to ask in the original post if there was any question about the grade (being as it's where it is) but after seeing that DG et al had taken 8B I didn't bother. Should have done a search on here really! Interesting and I agree that it does matter.

Seen that video of Core before but the way he absolutely fucking paths New Base Line is always worth watching again.

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 08:02:37 am

Speak for yourself, Sunbeam.

I've been pondering more important issues, for example, why the fuck does Core still tuck his shirt into his trousers? This is on a par w/ Fiends' socks.

Jaspersharpe · May 28, 2008, 08:04:27 am

Surely not quite as bad an offence as that!?

The Sausage · May 28, 2008, 08:45:08 am

...has nobody else noticed that the news link gives the grade as 8a+/8b... it doesn't even seem that 8b is being claimed. It very soberly mentions that Mrs Zangerl is pushing the limits of women's bouldering, not smashing them or anything.

Although I also think these things are important, bouldering grades are very hard to quantify. However I think if a problem is consistently a first/only ascent by a person of a problem of a certain grade, it indicates a borderline grade at best.

The Sausage · May 28, 2008, 08:47:57 am

Just went back to the news item. It says "with this ascent...she has explored the current limit of female bouldering".

Percy B · May 28, 2008, 08:55:34 am

Consensus seems to be soft 8b from everybody that's done it. My question is this? Who cares about the grade? I've seen her climb and she is an absolute machine - way, way stronger than any other female boulderers I have seen climb. Commenting on grades of problems based on other climbers comments on websites and not on your own experience is a waste of time. If you've done the problem then you can tell the world you think Pura Vida is only 8a+ and its not as impressive effort to climb it as everybody thinks. If not, why not keep your comments to yourself? Sometimes a few people on UKB seem far too quick to put down other climbers efforts without any basis in personal experience.

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 09:10:01 am

And so sayeth Saint Percy of Sheffield . . .

Jaspersharpe · May 28, 2008, 09:12:35 am

Quote from: The Sausage on May 28, 2008, 08:45:08 am

...has nobody else noticed that the news link gives the grade as 8a+/8b... it doesn't even seem that 8b is being claimed. It very soberly mentions that Mrs Zangerl is pushing the limits of women's bouldering, not smashing them or anything.

They've altered it since yesterday.

dave · May 28, 2008, 09:13:36 am

who's saying its not impressive Perc? no-one.

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 09:16:00 am

I fucking love grade arguments (especially about people I've never met or will and couldn't care less about): there so small-time; so irrelevant; so arbitrary; so boring; so predictable.

If it wasn't for grades, I'd be a rapist.

saltbeef · May 28, 2008, 09:21:26 am

Quote from: Houdini on May 28, 2008, 09:16:00 am

If it wasn't for grades, I'd be a rapist.

that you dense?

Baron · May 28, 2008, 09:43:42 am

"If it wasn't for grades, I'd be a rapist."

Idiot.

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 09:45:48 am

Get a grip, Baron.

abarro81 · May 28, 2008, 11:21:57 am

Baron's right - shouldn't it be "If it weren't for grades... "?

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 11:24:20 am

You're grammar needs work.

Jaspersharpe · May 28, 2008, 11:27:34 am

What qualifications does she have? Most supermarkets operate an equal opportunities policy which can be useful for elderly relatives seeking employment.

Houdini · May 28, 2008, 12:18:59 pm

Pfft! 8schmee . . .

I'm more interested in what she look like in her birthday suit.

Paul B · May 28, 2008, 01:43:25 pm

Quote from: Percy B on May 28, 2008, 08:55:34 am

Consensus seems to be soft 8b from everybody that's done it. My question is this? Who cares about the grade?

Me for one, just like i'm interested in things like what was the first 8a, who climbed it, the same for 8b,+,8c what the best onsight in the world has been and what the cutting edge is at any point in time. Theres nothing wrong with that.
If someone comes out and says my god thats utter shit a woman only climbing 8a+ then feel free to take offense.
on another point come on its in Magic Wood, its not exactly well known for reliable grading is it?

Quote from: Percy B on May 28, 2008, 08:55:34 am

If not, why not keep your comments to yourself?

because its a discussion board?

c.j.d. · May 28, 2008, 02:06:57 pm

Very good effort from a strong female type, but, alas, 8a/+ (from the locals mouth).

Jaspersharpe · May 29, 2008, 02:29:40 pm

My God, that's utter shit then.

Houdini · May 29, 2008, 02:33:51 pm

Burn the Witch-Punter!

Shy Ted · June 03, 2008, 05:53:10 pm

Quote from: dobbin on May 27, 2008, 08:28:24 pm

Nige and I looked at this and it looked like a very swiss 8b to be honest. There are actually good holds on it for instance. Thats not to say it isnt, as neither of us pulled on, but it looked distinctly more feasible than other problems at that grade. Taking a grade consensus off 8a.nu is an interesting one - you could argue that this is what people think it is and thats why they put it down as that, or you could argue that people are putting down what it says in the topo and not what they think it actually is? how many take the guidebook grade, and how many are honest enough to claim what they actually thought it was worth? I take guidebook grades. Except if I think they are miles out. Oh, its all subjective, one mans poison blah blah and all that - its a great effort by a very talented young climber, lets not get over excited about whether it is or it isnt. Well done Barbara.

i agree. it does my tatties in, being obsessed with grades being a fraction wrong and constant down-grading. just take it at face value and think, 'ooh, that was an enjoyable experience'. bon effort

a dense loner · June 03, 2008, 08:55:20 pm

yeh right... this from a guy that gives 8a+ probs 7b on the board

Shy Ted · June 04, 2008, 10:09:00 am

have you been recently? is that your problem, new comer?

Andy Harris · June 04, 2008, 12:14:47 pm

Had a quick blast on this a couple of years ago with the lass in question and her namesake (but not relative or boyfriend) Bernd. Both v.nice.

I must admit it didn't feel 8b to me. Did all the moves in 30mins or so. Crux is 1st move (if you do it the direct way) then 4/5 tricky but not desparate moves, then a v.small fingery move (2nd crux). Great problem but probably solid 8a+. I guess at Chironico it would also be 8b but no where near as hard as any of the Cresciano 8b's.

Mark Katz had fallen off the last move a couple of times on his 1st session. A fine effort.

Andy Harris · June 04, 2008, 03:31:36 pm

in reply to my last post, my comment wasn't meant to be derogatory. Just an honest opinion. It doesn't take away what is a great ascent of a bloody hard problem in real board style climbing. Actually Barbara is mini so I guess the moves would have been bigger and hence harder for her.

richdraws · June 06, 2008, 02:37:49 pm

I was looking on the 5.10 site in her profile she is listed as being:

Height: 064cm

Dwarfism, in medicine, is the condition of being undersized, or less than 127 cm (50 inches) in height. The term midget is usually applied to physically well-proportioned dwarfs

she is definitely midget material.

SA Chris · June 06, 2008, 03:09:48 pm

Wonder if she is a member of midgets of the world united?