[ksjs]

tried this last sunday as part of the rather excellent red circuit in the new stanage guide. didnt spend too long on it as this was only number 11 out of 40 problems and it was pretty tricky. does anyone know if youre allowed holds out left - not the arete but just left of The Bell scoop / feature there are two holds which makes things a bit easier: a high pocket / edge for your left hand and the edge of a rounded flake for your left foot. both holds can be easily reached from your position in The Bell: are these in or not?

[Fiend]

Think this is just piss and totally overgraded, it's nice tho.

[ksjs]

so these holds are allowed then (if yes then i totally agree about grade)?
ta

[Fiend]

Well. I have no idea really, maybe it is an eliminate but it doesn't say so, so we just climbed that bit of rock by the most obvious means.

[r-man]

Think I vaguely remember going up the centre using crimpy things or something. Grade seemed about right. Seem to remember it was a shame you didn't really use the feature much.

[Rice Boy]

Well. I have no idea really, maybe it is an eliminate but it doesn't say so, so we just climbed that bit of rock by the most obvious means.

Again with no knowledge, I thought this has always been a gift.  Possibly as a means to encourage new starters to aim high. Incidently this was one of my first problems when I first started climbing and I had visions of double figures for days to come, a visit to Curbar shortly after pissed on that parade.

What does the arete beside it go at? Thought this is a real gem.

[ksjs]

after doing it using the holds out left i tried without and it seemed nails: i had right hand on ok pocket / edge and had left hand in a kind of gaston (almost horizontal) on top part of the bell feature. hence youre pulling up with RH and down with left hand just before attempting move with LH to ok pocket / edge just left and above centre of bell. doable but not without special effort. sounds like i should take the tick...

[ksjs]

Well. I have no idea really, maybe it is an eliminate but it doesn't say so, so we just climbed that bit of rock by the most obvious means.

Again with no knowledge, I thought this has always been a gift.  Possibly as a means to encourage new starters to aim high. Incidently this was one of my first problems when I first started climbing and I had visions of double figures for days to come, a visit to Curbar shortly after pissed on that parade.

What does the arete beside it go at? Thought this is a real gem.

this is Bell End V1. i didnt climb it but partner did and it looked cool.

[grimer]

I remember using that gaston thing. doesn't your elbow almost point upwards? I think i pulled on like this, and maybe, yes, a pocket, and pulled on into a really strenuous position and lurched for crinkly crimps (or maybe they were slopers) with the left hand, matched and moved up? Perhaps in this way, you use the feature more?

[r-man]

Think that's what I did too. That's not climbing the feature though. That's climbing a collection of crimps and sidepulls that also happen to be there. Like kissing warts disguised beneath lipstick. Maybe.

[ksjs]

I remember using that gaston thing. doesn't your elbow almost point upwards? I think i pulled on like this, and maybe, yes, a pocket, and pulled on into a really strenuous position and lurched for crinkly crimps (or maybe they were slopers) with the left hand, matched and moved up? Perhaps in this way, you use the feature more?

exactly - elbow pointing upwards! i think this is the V5 version and the pockets / flakes i used arent in at the grade.