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Big News (Read 9387 times)

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#25 Re: Big News
May 22, 2008, 03:59:18 pm
I can't see why a pad would make a difference on this.  It's not going to help you on that sandy top out!

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#26 Re: Big News
May 22, 2008, 04:27:02 pm
Hi Ian, Brenva sit doesn't feel 7b, Chez's Arete feels more 7a, didn't realise Can Opener was a crack only affair as I normally use a pocket on the left (@ 6c?), I find Carbon Fibre nails but I'm shit at dynamic stuff more 7a ish.
To be honest I'm totally nit picking & being a bit petty, grades are only a guide one mans 7a is another mans 6c and vica versa.
I usually climb what looks good & try not to get caught up in this type of grade debate, but then I'm not a 7c boulderer.
Anyway think you & the other local boys have done an ace job on the bouldering front with new routes & info in the new guide.

ian h

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#27 Re: Big News
May 22, 2008, 05:03:39 pm
Hi Ian, Brenva sit doesn't feel 7b, Chez's Arete feels more 7a, didn't realise Can Opener was a crack only affair as I normally use a pocket on the left (@ 6c?), I find Carbon Fibre nails but I'm shit at dynamic stuff more 7a ish.
To be honest I'm totally nit picking & being a bit petty, grades are only a guide one mans 7a is another mans 6c and vica versa.
I usually climb what looks good & try not to get caught up in this type of grade debate, but then I'm not a 7c boulderer.
Anyway think you & the other local boys have done an ace job on the bouldering front with new routes & info in the new guide.

To be honest i thought the Brenva sit had gone in at 7a+. It is quite hard sorting the grades out as you are looking as to how the problems feel in perfect conditions, which as i suspect you know are pretty elusive on Southern Sandstone.

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#28 Re: Big News
May 23, 2008, 08:30:58 am
I can't see why a pad would make a difference on this.  It's not going to help you on that sandy top out!

Exactly. Said sandy top out was the reason I never soloed it. You could jump off the crux without a pad anyway it was the top that worried me as even when cleaned it was still sandy and a fall from there would not even be worth considering with a pile of fatdocs airpads.

 

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