[SA Chris]

and apparently moving like a rich syrup derived from sugar.

http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/

[dave]

molasses?

I notice on that website their reporting Adam Watson having done 3rd ascent of County Ethics - is this not more like the 4th ascent Banksy?

[Jim]

Also, is it any good?

[SA Chris]

There were some sample pages attached to a recent edition of Climber magazine. They have employed pretty much the same format as the Northumberland Routes guide which, while not a triumph of modern guidebook design, adequately gets the information across.

Also it has Font grades.

[lagerstarfish]

Also it has Font grades.

 

[Andy B]

I notice on that website their reporting Adam Watson having done 3rd ascent of County Ethics - is this not more like the 4th ascent Banksy?

Yep.

[Chris Graham]

Hi guys,

Just to say that I think at the moment it is only Wildtrak in Newcastle who have the book, it should be on its way from Cordee nationwide by now though.

You can probably blame/thank me for the u-turn towards font grades, hopefully it was the right decision, I can certainly sleep at night!

And I'll make sure the county ethics things gets amended correctly, thanks for that.

Cheers

[Jim]

well done for using some usable grades

[Greg C]

As Dance Variation once pointed out - "V's are for Churchill and hippies".

[Greg C]

well done for using some usable grades

  I realize you prefer Font grades, but are you really saying V-grades are unusable?

[fatdoc]

well done for using some usable grades

  I realize you prefer Font grades, but are you really saying V-grades are unusable?

well, having never been to hueco.... i'd prefer the premier area of sandstone bouldering in the Uk ( c'mon, it is.... ) to have the same grading system as the best sandstone bouldering in the world...

i'm all for font grades

[philo]

amazing news. i loved the old guide but with all the new problems it should be good.  this guide has been so long in the making!  whens this video your making coming out chris? looking forward to it

[richdraws]

I believe Jim is probably referring to the last effort of a northumberland bouldering guide that used a bizarre variation on the 'B' grade. The entire thing was entirely unfathomable.

I hope the new guide is as good as the area deserves.

[Chris Graham]

Damn I knew someone would bring up the video...it's like a ton weight that I'm dragging along on a chain behind me  ...end of the summer I hope, it's rising up my priority list again...

Cheers

[philo]

i know you must get asked alot and i didnt mean it ina grrr come on hurry up kind of way,
but it will be good, even if it does have adam gangling his way up a couple of epics 

[richdraws]

Is it gonna have Monk Life on it?

C'mon we have been wating years!

[Chris Graham]

Ok ok...

Yes it has Monk Life, here's the featured stuff...

Monk Life 8b+, Blood Sport 8b, Desperado 8a+, Queen Kong Sit 8a+, The Bitch 8a+, Under Siege(?) 8a+, The Magician 8a, Caterpult 8a/+, Roadside Wall Sit 8a, The Dark Side E9, Endless Flight Direct E8, Off the Rocks E8, Greenford Road  E8, Masterblaster Direct E7, AKA Mr Vegas E7, Masterclass E7, Time and Motion E7, Savage Slab E7, County Ethics E7...Plus all the classics, esoteric new stuff, the 'ald geordie legends and genuine old footage of Bob Smith on Australia Crack...

...but no I can't go any faster! 

[Jaspersharpe]

Sounds as if it will be worth the wait........not wanting to increase the pressure any like.

[Jim]

I believe Jim is probably referring to the last effort of a northumberland bouldering guide that used a bizarre variation on the 'B' grade. The entire thing was entirely unfathomable.

I hope the new guide is as good as the area deserves.

Nail on head there.
Only been once to the county, within 5 minutes of being at bowden, worms copy of the old book had been opened, breifly looked at and then thrown away.
It is indeed a crock of shite, lets hope the new guide is as good as it sounds

[philo]

ONLY been once?
oh my

[SA Chris]

Finally got my grubby paws on the guide this weekend, and it is is really, really good, haven't managed to put it down. Nicely laid out, good clear crag shots, maps and descriptions and some fantastic photos, notably from Mark Savage, but from others as well. A snip at £20, and haven't found a typo yet!

Dare I enquire about the DVD again?

[Chris Graham]

  What DVD?! Oh shit yeah, trailer and date soon I promise...I've been slightly preoccupied doing other things.

[SA Chris]

I saw that Chris, looks like a great venture, good luck with it.

[slackline]

I've been slightly preoccupied doing other things.

Quality the building used to be called "Byker Swimming Pool"    Will PJ and Duncan be there for the inaugral opening 

[SA Chris]

I expect their appearance fees must be ludicrous. Just hire two mutant dwarves, one with a forehead larger than the rest of his body put together.

[philo]

yeah i heard the plans and from i hear it will be unreal.
first climbing wall in the northeast with a "training" section?
andy and chris etc know what they are doing so it should be a top gym

[richdraws]

I hear they are having trouble with the padded walls installed to prevent foot breakage when kicking walls in anger, but they have had some success in adopting surf board style leashes to prevent too many chalk bags flying. 

[Darren S]

yeah i heard the plans and from i hear it will be unreal.
first climbing wall in the northeast with a "training" section?
andy and chris etc know what they are doing so it should be a top gym

Didn't know I had changed my name   

And yes it will be unreal.

Regards

Mr etc

[Falling Down]

Not wishing to open a can o' worms but has there been any changes to amend FA details and names of some problems that were done in the late 90's at Bowden and elsewhere by folk from outside the county that were 'overlooked' during the writing of the previous guide?   

[philo]

yeah i heard the plans and from i hear it will be unreal.
first climbing wall in the northeast with a "training" section?
andy and chris etc know what they are doing so it should be a top gym

Didn't know I had changed my name   

And yes it will be unreal.

Regards

Mr etc

sorry ;] dont know all involved just hearing bits and pieces!
is there going to be a powerball arena?

[Darren S]

Maybe a dodgeball arena 

 We are not having a DWS section, sorry, before anyone asks........


again.

[SA Chris]

Not wishing to open a can o' worms but has there been any changes to amend FA details and names of some problems that were done in the late 90's at Bowden and elsewhere by folk from outside the county that were 'overlooked' during the writing of the previous guide?   

If that's not a bumper sized can o' worms, I would like to know what is.  There isn't a whole stack of FA information at all really.

[Falling Down]

Nothing too controversial but during the early to mid 90's there were regular trips to the county from the North and South when most of the new bouldering was developed.  When the harder lines were being done (The Crack etc.) there were loads of other lines cleaned and climbed.  Unfortunately, when the last guide was written, many of these lines were deliberately renamed and the FA details ignored.

No big deal really but it did seem a little petty and narrow minded at the time and it will be hard to unpick if anyone wants to write a definative history of development.

[jdal]

From Falling Down: 
Nothing too controversial but during the early to mid 90's there were regular trips to the county from the North and South when most of the new bouldering was developed.  When the harder lines were being done (The Crack etc.) there were loads of other lines cleaned and climbed.  Unfortunately, when the last guide was written, many of these lines were deliberately renamed and the FA details ignored.

No big deal really but it did seem a little petty and narrow minded at the time and it will be hard to unpick if anyone wants to write a definative history of development.

Which problems do you mean? Give's an example. Because there's bog all FA information in the 1st guide. If you look at the 90's, on Bowden the only problem given an FA by a local is Pulp Friction by Dan Smith. Non Locals Malcolm Smith(Flying Stag) and Richie Patterson (Staggered) are the only other mentions.
No problems are mentioned by name in Back Bowden or Kyloe In. There are a couple at Kyloe Out :- Albatross, Bar SKittles and Learning To Fly - AndyE, When The Fat Lady Sings - Bob Smith.

I keep meaning to have a go at updating the NMC online guide to get the bouldering FA stuff, maybe this winter.

[Doylo]

What DVD?! Oh shit yeah, trailer and date soon I promise...I've been slightly preoccupied doing other things.

cool, good luck. It'll be good to have somewhere to go when visitin the grandparents!