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calling of the lime (Read 113354 times)

teestub

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#500 Re: calling of the lime
April 18, 2021, 08:54:59 pm
The two North Yorks lime problems that fit your criteria (Matador at Attermire and Ribtickler at Goyden) are more like 1hr30 from South Leeds, and Attermire requires a bit of a walk in too. I guess Launch Control at Kilnsey it the line of weakness from a sit, whereas a lot of the other hard things there are blinkers on. Kilnsey from south Leeds in an hour would require a very decent run too.

As such Iím assuming your time limit leaves you only with the Mag Lime of which I have little knowledge, as I think Tideswell area stuff is >1 hour too.

lagerstarfish

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#501 Re: calling of the lime
April 18, 2021, 09:04:30 pm
Good weekend for an actual lime calling, this one  :2thumbsup:

I took my t shirt off for climbing today

I guess lime would be reasonable

Bradders

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#502 Re: calling of the lime
April 18, 2021, 09:10:44 pm
I guess Launch Control at Kilnsey it the line of weakness from a sit, whereas a lot of the other hard things there are blinkers on. Kilnsey from south Leeds in an hour would require a very decent run too.

Even Launch Control is massively eliminate!

moose

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#503 Re: calling of the lime
April 18, 2021, 09:47:53 pm
Good weekend for an actual lime calling, this one  :2thumbsup:

I took my t shirt off for climbing today

I guess lime would be reasonable

Crikey, you must run a lot hotter than me.  I was bouldering on quarried grit on Saturday and had to use a hand warmer (admittedly it was in the shade)! Today at Anston felt more temperate but I still wrapped up in a duvet jacket between attempts!

lagerstarfish

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#504 Re: calling of the lime
April 18, 2021, 10:00:44 pm
Good weekend for an actual lime calling, this one  :2thumbsup:

I took my t shirt off for climbing today

I guess lime would be reasonable

Crikey, you must run a lot hotter than me.  I was bouldering on quarried grit on Saturday and had to use a hand warmer (admittedly it was in the shade)! Today at Anston felt more temperate but I still wrapped up in a duvet jacket between attempts!

Pottering on easy routes at Burbage North.

I was wearing jeans though.

Denim is always hot

Plattsy

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#505 Re: calling of the lime
April 18, 2021, 11:16:52 pm
I'm tempted to try this lime thing too this year. Still bouldering though. Please could someone recommend me a good problem that meets the following criteria:

Within 1 hour of South Leeds
7C-7C+ ish (maybe 8A if its not actually 8A at 6'2)
Not too conditions dependent(that's the point isn't it?)
Sustained rather than cruxy (also the point of lime?)
Reasonably skin friendly

Absolute bonus points if it also:
Is actually a line
Stay dry / dries quickly
Midnight Caller and Hard Call at Earth Quarry.
Definitely a line and tops out.

Bradders

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#506 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 09:25:29 am
I'm tempted to try this lime thing too this year

Just a thought; if you've never climbed on lime before remember it is very different to grit. My own experience was having climbed a few 7Cs and a 7C+ on grit and in Font, and then getting utterly shut down on the mag lime at Anston Stones. Only just about managed the 7As!

Obviously it may suit you more than it did me but thought I'd say. All the lower 7s are also well worth doing too, would be a shame to miss them.

abarro81

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#507 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 09:53:07 am
I'm tempted to try this lime thing too this year

Just a thought; if you've never climbed on lime before remember it is very different to grit. My own experience was having climbed a few 7Cs and a 7C+ on grit and in Font, and then getting utterly shut down on the mag lime at Anston Stones. Only just about managed the 7As!

In my first couple of years at uni I was climbing about 7B+/C on the grit and about 7A/+ on the lime... nowadays I climb about the same level on the grit but my lime grade went up by a whole number grade or more... climbing's a funny thing innit!

Bradders

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#508 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 10:00:27 am
climbing's a funny thing innit!

Haha absolutely! Lots of respect to everyone who manages to be well rounded in all the different styles and rock types, it's not easy!

moose

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#509 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 11:30:27 am
climbing's a funny thing innit!

Haha absolutely! Lots of respect to everyone who manages to be well rounded in all the different styles and rock types, it's not easy!

I'm weak in many ways, and on all rock types, does that earn your respect?

Bradders

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#510 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 11:39:46 am
Well that's not true, but your commitment to self-deprecation is certainly impressive.

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#511 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 11:47:53 am
Ebola and Resonate at Anston Stones.

Thanks, these look very typical of lime (board-like with raw finger strength requirements) and should go on my list. Plenty of easier stuff to go at there too.

The two North Yorks lime problems that fit your criteria (Matador at Attermire and Ribtickler at Goyden) are more like 1hr30 from South Leeds, and Attermire requires a bit of a walk in too.

These 2 problems look excellent, particularly matador. A bit far for evening hits but noted as rainproof venues.

Midnight Caller and Hard Call at Earth Quarry.
Definitely a line and tops out.

Wow, this looks more like a gritstone problem! Definitely high on the list. I also did a bit more digging in the nearby area and found light worker and the hagg at levitt hagg, which look great too. I doubt these would get me strong like Anston but far more inspiring to me in the short-term.

Just a thought; if you've never climbed on lime before remember it is very different to grit. My own experience was having climbed a few 7Cs and a 7C+ on grit and in Font, and then getting utterly shut down on the mag lime at Anston Stones. Only just about managed the 7As!

Obviously it may suit you more than it did me but thought I'd say. All the lower 7s are also well worth doing too, would be a shame to miss them.

I suspect you might be right as I'm about where you were in terms of grades on grit back then.


Please could anyone provide approach beta for Lobwell wood (PM if needs be)? Source of Secrets looks very good. Kenzoku looks outrageously good for people better than me.



Duma

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#512 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 11:59:03 am
In my first couple of years at uni I was climbing about 7B+/C on the grit and about 7A/+ on the lime... nowadays I climb about the same level on the grit but my lime grade went up by a whole number grade or more... climbing's a funny thing innit!
Scrittle rewards talent,
choss rewards training.
#stereotypes ;-)

mr chaz

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#513 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 03:15:59 pm
Scrittle rewards luck,
choss rewards training.
#stereotypes ;-)

Fixed that for you

Fiend

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#514 Re: calling of the lime
April 19, 2021, 07:43:26 pm
Scrittle rewards luck,
choss rewards a lack of aesthetic sensibility and a high boredom threshold.
#stereotypes ;-)

Fixed that for you

 

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