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Significant First Ascents (Read 120494 times)

remus

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#475 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 25, 2024, 10:11:41 am
Dave Sutcliffe has added a pretty hot looking new line at Bailldon Bank he's called 'The White Horse', suggested E7 7A or ~7C protected by a couple of pegs.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/baildon_bank-537/the_white_horse-721118

Kingy

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#476 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 02, 2024, 08:44:08 am
Death of Villians 9a+ by Kai Lightner in the Hurricave, US

https://www.8a.nu/news/kai-lightner-fas-death-of-villains-9a%2B-n8pvs

remus

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#477 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2024, 07:46:13 am
Toru has established a new problem he's called Regret. 3 moves, 20 sessions, "harder than Lucid Dreaming".

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4CKIiOyueH/

remus

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#478 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 07, 2024, 03:47:42 pm
Nico Ceria has put up a very cool looking line in Sardinia he's called Aeropressing. As per he's not offered a grade, but he likened it to The Big Island (8C) and Owning the Weather (8B+).

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4NwP68Nq1u/?img_index=1

SA Chris

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#479 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 07, 2024, 06:05:28 pm
All his stuff he's posted recently looks very cool.

Fiend

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#480 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 07, 2024, 08:15:22 pm
 :agree: with the "very cool" descriptions  :yes:

remus

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#481 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 13, 2024, 04:19:32 pm
I don't really know much about Patagonia, but Sean Villaneuva ODriscoll is a beast so I assume this is pretty chunky.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4dHEJSOaqC/?igsh=dWswNWtpcWp6eTcy

Johnny Brown

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#482 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 13, 2024, 05:35:16 pm
It’s fucking incredible. To do the Fitzroy one was outrageous enough, now he’s done it in a different range. It’s worth noting that although Sean has done a few routes in Paine before, in general it is a much less travelled range and I suspect he’ll have had a lot less beta.

remus

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#483 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 13, 2024, 06:35:23 pm
Good context, thanks JB. Sounds like the weather was pretty tricky with this one too.

remus

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#484 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 13, 2024, 06:36:43 pm
In other news, Tom Bolger has joined the very short list of British people who've climbed 9b with the first ascent of E.L.L.I.E in Margalef.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4dtCeutfUW/

El Mocho

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#485 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 13, 2024, 06:49:52 pm
It’s fucking incredible. To do the Fitzroy one was outrageous enough, now he’s done it in a different range. It’s worth noting that although Sean has done a few routes in Paine before, in general it is a much less travelled range and I suspect he’ll have had a lot less beta.

I think Shipoopie soloed the three main towers the year we were in Patagonia Adam, or the year before?

https://www.mountainzone.com/2002/story/outthere/html/patagonia_schneider.html

Johnny Brown

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#486 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 13, 2024, 06:57:11 pm
Yeah I’d either forgotten or never knew that. Norte in 40 mins! I should have pushed on…

I’m still impressed with Sean.

El Mocho

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#487 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 14, 2024, 09:07:41 am
Yeah I’d either forgotten or never knew that. Norte in 40 mins! I should have pushed on…

I’m still impressed with Sean.

Yeah that wasn't a dig a Sean at all. He seems to have a sort of comfortableness just being in those mountains, happy with his own ability and the situation. I know when I was there I was semi gripped the whole time, and you get the impression from reading the Shipoopie account (and from meeting the guy!) that it was likely a much higher stress affair...

Johnny Brown

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#488 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 14, 2024, 10:00:02 am
I thunk the difference with Sean now is that he first had an incredible apprenticeship but, unlike pretty much anyone else, he didn't slow or settle down in his thirties. Watching Colin Haley's recent video on the Supercanaleta suggests age catches up with you mentally, but I suppose it depends what is driving you.

edshakey

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#489 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 25, 2024, 12:41:10 pm
New Toru Nakajima line, harder than Lucid Dreaming apparently (no grade).

https://www.instagram.com/saruzaemon9/p/C4CKIiOyueH/

Quote
Regret FA

So, I finally finished up this project on the right side of Emotion V14 in Ena, Japan. It started off with high 2 crisps, and then it was just 3 moves to the top with my beta. Took me over 20 days to connect these 3 moves together.
This rock is at the entrance of Ena, so I think the line is famous. I had been itching this since I climbed Emotion 10 years ago. I started trying last season and by the 3rd day, the move was solved. I thought I would be able to climb it right away, but I was terribly misguided.
Spending 20 days on just three moves, in freezing cold, is something I'll never forget. But, wow, those 20 days were something else.
Hands down, it was the hardest climbing challenge I've faced. But if you ask me the grade, I couldn't tell you. It feels harder than Lucid Dreaming V15 in Bishop, US, , which is kinda similar, but then again, who's to say if a 3-move V16 is a thing? While trying this challenge, I often thought back to my 20 days on Emotion 10 years ago. Just like anything else, looking back helps you get the full picture. Hopely someday I will know about this problem.

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#490 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 25, 2024, 04:25:41 pm
Toru has established a new problem he's called Regret. 3 moves, 20 sessions, "harder than Lucid Dreaming".

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4CKIiOyueH/
:whistle:

edshakey

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#491 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 25, 2024, 04:35:41 pm
:slap:

Just spotted it on the other channel and assumed it was pretty recent! Should have known it's impossible to beat remus to the breaking of news ;)

Fiend

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#492 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 25, 2024, 05:11:00 pm
Remusbot_AI predicts these ascents before anyone knows the climber is even trying the project  :ninja:

edshakey

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#493 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 25, 2024, 08:58:52 pm
Remusbot_AI predicts these ascents before the climber even knows they're trying the project  :ninja:

SA Chris

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#494 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 26, 2024, 09:00:46 am
In other news, Tom Bolger has joined the very short list of British people who've climbed 9b with the first ascent of E.L.L.I.E in Margalef.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4dtCeutfUW/

Looking at his posts, this thing looks like a proper brute of a route to redpoint.

 

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