[Adam Lincoln]

What grade does this get?

I presume the 7c on Stick It has been downgraded

Also whats the grade for Jasons Undecling Standup?

Cheers

[dave]

jason's undercling standup is about V6.

Zaffs - dunno, did it earlier this year i took thre 7c no question :D  but realised it felt very, lets say, approachable for 7c. I suppose if you start really low it might be harder, we just started pulling on and first move going for the right hand nubble like you see zaff doing on the vid. our mate steve can just about do it in trainers.

[Adam Lincoln]

jason's undercling standup is about V6.

Zaffs - dunno, did it earlier this year i took thre 7c no question :D  but realised it felt very, lets say, approachable for 7c. I suppose if you start really low it might be harder, we just started pulling on and first move going for the right hand nubble like you see zaff doing on the vid. our mate steve can just about do it in trainers.

Yes, approachable indeed! It was warm yesterday and my mate Pete nearly flashed it. Fell off rocking over. Was hung over to f**k though!

He got it next go and me, 6 goes later.

V8+...?

[dave]

yeah i fell off the top a couple of times anall. 7b+ maybe is fair. Probably still easier then blind date!

[Percy B]

This is the low nose thing underneath Nicotine Stain I presume. Polish Dave did the second ascent thinking it was the first, and gave it 8a (whoops!)
Ian Fitzpatrick promptly flashed it, and when asked what grade he thought it was said he agreed that it was fully 8a and he was just climbing like a god (although his tongue was firmly in his cheek!) - like I say....always take the grade!!!
I thought this was now settled at 7c - although its maybe an easy tick for the grade. However, not many people flash it and we grade for the on-sight, don't we?!? Took me a few goes, and even Vickers took two tries (although it was his warm-up, the bugger!) If you divots only want 7b+ for this - good for you! I'll take 7c, thank you very much!!!

Try Welfords Velvet Krab that takes the obvious hanging arete to the left of the above problem if you want to tick a 7b+, but take a spotter.... even Big Ron was scared topping this one out, but its a great problem and feels easier than the nose thing. :wink:

[dave]

I'll follow percy's lead and take the 7c then! Its a cracking problem , i hear welford did it even before zaff! (then it really would be 7b+!!!).

scouse had a nasty fall from the top of velvet krab earlier this summer, not down to my shoddy spotting you understand. Is it normal to finish in the crack/s at the top or do you have to rock back left onto the slab?

[Adam Lincoln]

I'll follow percy's lead and take the 7c then! Its a cracking problem , i hear welford did it even before zaff! (then it really would be 7b+!!!).

scouse had a nasty fall from the top of velvet krab earlier this summer, not down to my shoddy spotting you understand. Is it normal to finish in the crack/s at the top or do you have to rock back left onto the slab?

Oh i will take 7c! Pete reckons it was V6 and he has done harder in Font, but then, he couldnt grade flour...  :roll:

[Scouse D]

Fuck me, that velvet crab is a bit high but the climbing is proper bo. I fell off from the very top cos i didn't know whether you were allowed to use the crack where the arete finishes or rock out onto the slab. I tried and tried to rock onto the slab-pumped out of my tiny mind, untill gravity took over. Properly fooked my ankle up.

[Percy B]

I think rocking back left at the top is the way, although it doesn't matter too much. I didn't like the look of the crack thing much!!!! As I think the last post proves, its a bit naughty at the top, and I can heartily recommend giving it a brush before you try it as it tends to get a bit gritty and dirty towards the top - possibly due to lack of traffic?!?!?! (don't wire brush it though - the rock is too soft, and we wouldn't want to scrape big holds in it and make it easier!)

[Bonjoy]

The full story is, Welford did the prow from a low start off a rock and gave it V8. Zaff unaware it had been done pulled the rock out (to add a few moves) and was trying it from the lower start (starting off left in slot), but was beaten to it by polish dave, they gave it Font 8a. I reckon its just worth 7c, but only just and only from the lower start.

[Adam Lincoln]

The full story is, Welford did the prow from a low start off a rock and gave it V8. Zaff unaware it had been done pulled the rock out (to add a few moves) and was trying it from the lower start (starting off left in slot), but was beaten to it by polish dave, they gave it Font 8a. I reckon its just worth 7c, but only just and only from the lower start.

Yeah, we did it left hand in slot and right hand in shit crimp at back of ramp. Lifted off the ground and clamped feet on

[dave]

think we did it from a move higher than that, on the assurance that "thats where it starts".

[dave]

might try and rectify the situation tonite adn try the low start - can i get a rewind? bo selecta.

[Adam Lincoln]

might try and rectify the situation tonite adn try the low start - can i get a rewind? bo selecta.

How dya get on?

[dave]

couldn't be arsed when we got there to be honest. tried to get a sequence on velvet krab, got a bit pumped, did nicotine stain again, soloed some stuff, went home. Those roof cracks in that cave are bo though.

[Adam Lincoln]

couldn't be arsed when we got there to be honest. tried to get a sequence on velvet krab, got a bit pumped, did nicotine stain again, soloed some stuff, went home. Those roof cracks in that cave are bo though.

Always gets me Nicotine Stain! Tricky little number.

What Font grade do you reckon for it?

[dave]

I'm sure if it was at cuvier it'd be black from resin, chipped and about a 5+ sandbag.

but realistically its probably like a 6c maybe, dunno, always avoid problem of that grade in font. I take the easy way out and stick to oranges or 7as and above

did it in knackered boreals last nite first go, funny how things can feel easy, was the living end when i first did it! also totally gripped on the gravelly top bit.

[mozzer]

Still haven't got that bastard. Managed about three quarters of it about 4th go then took a whipper and me julie managed to miss my flailing limbs. Hobbled off to easier things...

[Doylo]

This is 7b max and wouldn't be harder than 7a+ in font, cool prob though.