[Stu Littlefair]

I've run out of ideas. I'm looking for a shady, dry limestone venue for routage tonight with me and the Mrs.
Must be a reasonable drive from Sheffield....

 

[dave]

i don't think it's going to be too boiling tonight anyway, so you may be OK at the usual venues. the main wall at rubicon will be in the shade after about 6:30.Pplaystaion butress at the Tor? Staden quarry? if you're quick you could get to Max Wall in cheedale, assuming its dry. or hows about one of those queer gibson quarried venues?

[Bonjoy]

WCJ Cornice may well be dry enough by now. Long Tor Quarry will be dry and is fully shady, it's about 40/45mins drive from sheff and only a 30second walk in.

[Andy F]

The Embankment looks nice now the trees have been cut back, but I would guess you've alreday ticked the crag.

[jfw]

i love staden quarry!

[Stu Littlefair]

Hmm. Embankment, Staden have little attraction. Long Tor quarry sounds interesting though. Will run it past the lady of the steel fingers.

[account_inactive]

How is Ru? 

[Stu Littlefair]

Odd. There seems to be no 'how droll' smiley.

[Bonjoy]

If you do go to LTQ, some useful knowledge:
 Avoid the first 6c route as a warm up, it's a bit of a sandbag, the second one is much nicer.
 Ruby Fruit Jungle is good but has a monster reach on the lower wall, the other two 8as aren't reachy.
 If you are thinking of trying Mosey On Down the Crow Road bring a clip stick, it's bolted to start with the second bolt pre-clipped.

[Serpico]

 Ruby Fruit Jungle is good but has a monster reach on the lower wall, the other two 8as aren't reachy.

Are you implying something about Stu's lack of reach?

[Paul B]

If you do go to LTQ, some useful knowledge:
 Avoid the first 6c route as a warm up, it's a bit of a sandbag, the second one is much nicer.
 Ruby Fruit Jungle is good but has a monster reach on the lower wall, the other two 8as aren't reachy.
 If you are thinking of trying Mosey On Down the Crow Road bring a clip stick, it's bolted to start with the second bolt pre-clipped.

its a hell of a stretch that move, theres a dirty side pull that you can use instead but its really hard, the whole route is imo.

[Stu Littlefair]

Excellent, cheers for the beta. Looks like we will be heading to LTQ this evening. I will mostly try the Boltest but have my eye on Mosey On Down the Crow Road if that goes OK. No need to worry though, I don't go anywhere without my clipstick.

[Bonjoy]

The start of MODTCR is bouldery, do you want any beta?

[etjoset]

The right hand side of the Chee Cornice is dry - Unleashing (further left of this is still wet). I've not been but there are rumours that much of the WCJ Cornice is also climbable - both shady. The left hand end of Two Tier (Entree, Kali Yuga, Why Me, Orange Sunshine etc) is in the shade after 6.30 and in good nick at present.

[Paul B]

Which bits of WCJ?

[Stu Littlefair]

Interesting that the cornice is starting to dry, but I quite fancy somewhere new. I'll try and manage without beta cheers Jon!

[Bonjoy]

Good man

[JC]

Just got back from Long Tor, its in pretty good nick at the minute. Conditions were awesome. All routes dry at present

Bonjoy i bolted the line to the right of Pistol Fingers & tried it for a bit tonight. Its bloody hard, with 3 crux sections. I reckon maybe harder than pistol fingers 

[Stu Littlefair]

glad someone made it there.
I suffered a mutinee and ended up getting  spanked by e2s. Long tor goes straight to the top of my Venus to check
out list

[Neil F]

"I will mostly try the Boltest but have my eye on Mosey On Down the Crow Road if that goes OK."

"I.... ended up getting  spanked by e2s."

The perils of posting your plans on an internet forum, eh Stu?   

Neil

[SA Chris]

Venus to check out list

Once an astrophysicist.....

[Bonjoy]

Just got back from Long Tor, its in pretty good nick at the minute. Conditions were awesome. All routes dry at present

Bonjoy i bolted the line to the right of Pistol Fingers & tried it for a bit tonight. Its bloody hard, with 3 crux sections. I reckon maybe harder than pistol fingers 

Yeah, that's a hard line. It's got a couple of good holds and lots of shit ones. Great bit of rock though. Good luck!

[Paz]

I thought them juggy ones on tufa/flowstone right of Joint Effort and the Nails would be right up your street no? 

[Stu Littlefair]

Sorry Paz???!??

We went to Millstone, not Staden. Which was warm, and not shady. Nor Limestone. My wife needs talking to.

[Paz]

She sure does, if she's not getting you spanked on trad routes she's burning me off on bolts.