[Will Hunt]

As can be seen in this pic I robbed off UKC there are two obvious finishes from the ledge. One goes up the exposed scoop to the left where the bloke in the pic is going (The Scoop, VSevere) and one goes up the crack to the right (Zig-Zag, Severe).


Today I climbed the blank looking wall between the two to the intermediate break (v. good cams) using a faint diagonal crack/seam (just visible in the pic) and a pebble with a bit of reach thrown in.

This route aint in the guidebook so Ive put it into the new routes log on The Leeds Wall website as it was damn cool.

Just wondering, has anyone ever seen this done before or know of it being done?

[Will Hunt]

Oops

[Will Hunt]

This posting malarkey is harder than it looks. I screwed up again

[webbo]

i suspect the reason its not been written up before is that its barely independant and you can reach the holds from either of the routes on either side.

[SA Chris]

I think it looks fairly independant as the scoop actually tops out on the slight bulge you can see on the skyline and for ZZ you have your hands in the crack, although it's a while since I did either route? I suspect it has been done before, but probably not written up. Dave Mus will probably still accept it as a new route though, although it's probably just a direct finish.

[Jaspersharpe]

although it's probably just a direct finish.

Probably?

[SA Chris]

Stop quoting out of context.

Dave Mus will probably still accept it as a new route though, although it's probably just a direct finish.

By which I mean that if you give it a new name he will probably accept it, rather than just list it as a direct finish. Or an Eliminate if it pleases Webbo.

[Jaspersharpe]

Oh I see!

I propose the name "Direct Finish".

[webbo]

i'm more for "pointless filler in"

[Jaspersharpe]

I was being kind.

[webbo]

so was i.
i was originally going to suggest"how is it possible to be so shit at jamming" (see cidernuts thread for details)

[Will Hunt]

Dave Mus apparently did it in '82 as a finish to Quark Walk. He agrees with me though that those eliminate moves are probably the best on the route though. In light of that I thought it was worth recording as a direct finish. Apparently it'll go in the new routes database. If you're ever at Caley and fancy a nice couple of moves then have a go. Its a real nice finish.

[SteveM]

If you're ever at Caley and fancy a nice couple of moves then have a go. Its a real nice finish.

At what grade?

[Will Hunt]

To be honest Im crap at grading but I would suggest VS. Its harder technically than the scoop finish, especially if youve not got the reach but I dont suppose its as "bold". That said if you fell from the crux you may well land awkwardly on the ledge below before falling off this and letting the bomber gear take you.

Its not really hard. 4c? The top out goes straight to the highest part of the wall, not to the shorter part at the right.

[SA Chris]

The top out goes straight to the highest part of the wall, not to the shorter part at the right.

So it really is an eliminate then.

[BenF]

So it really is an eliminate then.

Nah, its just a tight line...

[Monolith]

Be wary of anything this man deems as an independent line. Pisa Wall at Pex has 1000 straight ups to him

[BenF]

None of which Monolith can do.  Or should I say, can do using the correct sequence.   

[Monolith]

Heel behind ear, forty hand movements to travel 2 metres etc.

Sorry for OT, he just does this to me.

[BenF]

I've seen your "concept project" mate and I'm much happier with what I do...  Do you actually have heels to know what they are? 

(No apology for OT, the topic is worth straying from)

[SA Chris]

Do you actually have heels to know what they are? 

Translation?

[BenF]

Sorry Chris (and everyone else for this ridiculous theft of a thread), Monolith has a rare, degenerative genetic disorder that has left him unable to place his heels on the rock when he's projecting crimpy razor edge basic problems.  Instead he can only drag his feet aimlessly behind his campusing torso and arms, with occasional attempts to hook his toes on large ledges or other features that any normal person would place their heels upon.  He even has special shoes made with only small rubber toe patches added for use on slippery limestone.  I understand that he aims to use these shoes when he finally makes his on-sight flash attempt at Rockattrocity.

[Monolith]

You don't catch the Big G with his heels on do you? What God are you following? You're going straight to heel bowye!

[BenF]

 

The religion (although it pains me to even suggest that your idea of climbing could be classed as anything more than the style of a teenage scally climbing the Wade Smith wall for the first time) that you're following is the equivalent of some loony, backwoods cult mate.  With three followers, one of which is you.  And Big G ain't one of the other two.

[SA Chris]

I guessed that was what you meant, but not what you wrote - just that the sentence was a bit of a shambles.

Feel the power of the heel.