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Indian face - Is it a route or is it just highball. (Read 11424 times)

james

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Right, I cant get any sense out of CT so I will ask on here even though it is just a tad to high to be considered bouldering :lol: .
Does anyone know how high the Indian Face is.  I want to put a rope on it tomorrow but I dont know if a single length will do will do.  Also if anyone has a picture that would be great.
Cheers

James

dave

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I doubt a single 50/60m rope will be sufficient, unless your belayer sits on the top. Bear in mind dawes worked it on abseil alone. Its probably not much shy of 45/50m.

Avoiding the Traitor

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Been told it was about 45 metres high.

I was making senses on CT!

james

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Thanks for that.  Sorry craggers, I didnt see your posts.  They do make sense.
Cheers

James

Avoiding the Traitor

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And again other advise.

Bring your other pant with you, again was told - easily shitting yourself just looking at it.

james

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ok will do.  The real scary thing is going to be hanging over the edge belaying all day  :shock:
Cheers

James

Johnny Brown

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I reckon a man of your talent should save it for the onsight. Improving at your current rate, in five years or so you should piss it.

Seriously, there are a few routes I am really pissed of I top roped when I was your age. They would have made great onsights. And I did very little toproping. Some of my mates will struggle to ever onsight E7 cos they headpointed all the obvious ones when they were young and desperate to be an E7 climber.

Bear in mind as well that what Johnny's 'toproping' actually consisted of. Basically trying moves whilst hanging on an ab rope. Not the same as doing it in one five times in a row before committing to the lead. That goes for gaia and most of his other hard leads.
I'm not trying to biog the guy up too much but its a fact that 15 years on almost none of his routes have been done in better style than he used. To me that makes the repeats pretty worthless.

dave

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I agree. If you're going to walk all the way op there better to consolidae your onsighting by doing like great wall or something.

I've only really toproped a couple of things that i coulnd't do on toprope in bad conditions and now deeply regret cos they are onsightable routes i'm now robbed of (entropy's jaw an kaluza klein). was stupid to even get on them in the first place given i was only doing E2 at the time....

Bubba

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What style was Gresham's ascent in?

I think JohnnyBrown is talking sense here - why not save it for the first onsight which would really move the game on? I remember that Adam Wainright flashed it on toprope years ago - if you did that, wouldn't it just be a waste?

Having said that, I think your mental to even be considering it  :wink:

james

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It is one of my friends who is getting on it.  I am just belaying him.   I dont think there is much chance of me seeing any of the moves from up there, I will probably be to scared to open my eyes.
Cheers

James

Avoiding the Traitor

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Interesting read

http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/features/profiles/neilgresham/neilgresham3.htm

Don't have Airlie as your belayer!!  :shock:

Bubba

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I hate belaying people on things where they might really hurt themselves, so I can understand Airlie being a bit stressed out.

How many people have done IF now?

hongkongstuey

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still only three i think

dave

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yeah, dawes, gresham and dixon innit.

in that article about NG says summert about death of Rachel Farmer. I keep reading things that make refference to this, but i think it was before i started climbing, so whats the crack? I'm not trying to be morbid or anythingm just genuinley wanna know what the story is.

Bubba

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Airlie was with Rachel Farmer, traversing an easy ledge at Buoux.

Rachel tragically slipped and took a huge groundfall, dying shortly afterwards. A very very sad thing to happen  :cry:

dave

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cheers for filling me in - thats pretty bad. :(

dobbin

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She was awesome too, first British woman to F8a (Raindogs) and quite a looker at that. What she was doing with an old dog like Gresham I do not know  :wink:

james

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This is a long shot.  I have looked online but cant find any info on how to find it.  Can anyone give me directions on how to find it.  I have a guide of the quaries but not one that is upto date enough.
Cheers

James

dave

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quarries? :?

Indian Face is at Cloggy, or did i miss something....

james

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I havnt got a clue where it is.  That is why I am asking :lol: .  Where is cloggy?  Dont laugh I am only young :lol:
Cheers

James

Avoiding the Traitor

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Have u tried this?

http://www.hotpud.com/ukroutes/RouteStats?i=27283

Got a link of the map where it is exactly.

james

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thanks again.  I hadnt seen that.  Now all I need is to find out which route it is
Cheers

James

dave

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if you're serious about trying the route, or your mate is, i seriously recomend buying the guidebook. Not only are you attempting one of the most serious route on british rock, if you also don't know where the crag is, or where the routes is then the odds are not stackewd in your favour. Get the cloggy guide from outside in the pass, and expect a 1 hour walk to the crag.

ALos worth remembering that james mchafie tried onsighting masters wall from an old copy of the guidebook, got off route somewher between masters wall and indian face, had to untie, drop the rope and wait (45mins?)on small holds (finger bleading?) for his belayer to go round the top and drop an ab rope, then it was in the wrong place so waited some more for it to be dropped again, clipped into the ab rope badly and took a massive slide down the rope till he stopped. What i'm trying to say i cloggy is a seriously bad place to get anything wrong, be it routefinding or anything. its not like going to burbage and chucking a rope down parthian shot, this is serious shit!

dave

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see the little red dot in the middle of the face - thats patch hammond on great wall. Indian face goes soemwhere up the blank wall to the right of them. Not sure of the line, or where it goes at the top.


james

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cheers dave

 

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