[r-man]

I visited Pleasley Vale for the first time today. Lovely spot, pleasantly shaded from the sun and lots of friendly rock.

Aside from a reasonable number of good easier straight ups (unusual for limestone), there seem to be a few decent harder problems, plus the potential for desperate eliminates on amazing holds. One or two of the pinches are almost sexual.

So I thought it would be nice to get some font grade opinions for the harder stuff, plus maybe some knowledge about eliminates if anyone has any...

These are the problems in the rockfax guide that get B7 or above. I've gone with names plucked from 8a.nu. Problem numbers refer to the rockfax guide.

Yew Tree Wall

11. Yew Tree Wall B7 - ft 7a - nice body tension to move up from the horizontal pinch and right hand sidepull pinch.

14. The Pinch B8 - ft 7a - great steep and slappy climbing to go straight up the bulge, using the pinch.

15. Pinch Superdirect B10 - ft? - I presume this climbs the bulge without the left-hand slot? And perhaps without left hand arete jug at top? Only sequence I could see was maybe gain the nasty spock crimp with right, match just to left on a crap edge with left and slap to pinch with right, then throw over the top with left. Is this right? If so, looks absolutely nails! Beta please...

19. Thin Wall B7 - ft 6c - Using everything apart from arete jugs this still isn't that hard, but fingery. Looks like an obvious burly eliminate is possible on fat holds though. Anyone know about this?

21. Yew Tree Traverse B7 - ft? - Trav just above the break in either direction. Didn't try, but it's described as superb.

Other stuff

Anyone locals know anything about the eliminates? Looks like those on the bulge of the pinch wall could be really good.

Also, on 8a.nu someone has Arete sitting start on their scorecard as ft 7c. What's this? A sitter to The Pinch? I can imagine that being quite tasty.

[JC]

I used to do quite a bit of bouldering here a few years ago, its quite a nice little spot isn't it? Not been for quite some time though. I've done all the problems described in the rockfax guide, but didn't do any eliminates. I thought problem 14 was one of the best  The pinch Superdirect thing i did as you described (no slot) but didn't think it was worth B10. Maybe 7b/+ ish. 

[dave]

had a session here last summer with scouse. unfortunatley a lot of the holds were wet down low, making the full yew tree traverse nails, felt like 7b but a good grade of that must have been the dampness. when dry its probably in the 7a+ region.

that direct to the pinck looked nails and I'd be amazed if it was only 7b+. i seemt o remember the holds were tiny, poor and miles from the pinch.

heres a photo of scouse on something or other, can't remember exactly.

[GCW]

I quite enjoyed going here.  Looooong time since I've been.

This is the only photo I've got.  Some fat lad (wasn't then though) on Problem 19, B7.  Felt about Font 6b when I flashed it.



What a cool dude!!

[r-man]

heres a photo of scouse on something or other, can't remember exactly.

That's problem 14, aka The Pinch. Enoyable hug-slapping.

I too would be surprised if the direct was only 7b+. I pulled on but the first right handhold seemed to shrink every time I had my fingers on it.

JC, just to clarify, did you use the sequence I described, or just the same no-slot concept?

Wish I'd taken a photo of this bulge. Stick a few numbers on the holds and we've got a whole new eliminates venue to reinvigorate the spirit of climbing. I'll let Dave name the problems.

[Bonjoy]

Used to go here quite a lot with Mr Crome as it was one of our nearest crags. I do remember inventing at least one class eliminate right of the Pinch. Anly a one mover but a brilliant move, we reckoned it was English 7a (this was pre-bouldering grades in UK). Can't recall the details though.

[dave]

i think me and scouse also did some eliminates and john lesley vale about 10ft right of the pinch, undercutting, crossthroughs etc. was very good for a summer day out but wouldn't go out of my way to return regularly.

[uptown]

I'll dig out my old climbing diaries - the right side of yew tree wall had quite a few nails eliminates done. Didn't Mr Happy Hart train here and do some sick stuff at some point?

[r-man]

I've stuck some numbers on a photo Grimer gave me. Would be great if anyone who makes a visit can add a couple of problems to the ukb memory station. And let's be having some of those old-skool concoctions...



Higher res version here:
http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/pleasley%20topo.bmp

[uptown]

I do remember inventing at least one class eliminate right of the Pinch. Anly a one mover but a brilliant move, we reckoned it was English 7a (this was pre-bouldering grades in UK). Can't recall the details though.

Found my diaries frpm '92 - Westside (English 7a) A superb slap for a useless hold.

I don't think that helps does it... I've got a couple of home drawn topos too, but would need to go back there to apply the lines to your numbers r-man.

[TonyS]

Just thought I would give this a bump and let folks know what has been going on.

Last year some trees got cut down (dont know exactly who but I am lead to believe climbers) and the wood not disposed of. Consequently the local youths started a few fires under pinches.

Fast forward its May 2010 and I with others have invested lots of time cleaning soot, gluing up holds, colouring new exposed rock, so the place looks nice and is climbable again.

More trees have been cut so I have removed the wood. (please if you know who it is or if it is you yourself, stop cutting the trees down it will make naff all difference to the conditions down there, althogh may make it too warm from the sun in summer.

I am in the process of colating a topo which I will post when finished.

Lots of new eliminates have been done all existing problems recleaned so its a nice venue to go to.

Grade wise upto Ft 7c+ maybe 8a

The pinch super direct is Ft7c/+.  This is due to the fact the the floor level has droped since it was first done and you now have a lower move to get the starting crimps of old.

Great place and more traffic would keep it fire free.

[chris05]

Thanks for the update and the hard work. Whats the access like? Think I'd heard there are barriers which can be down?

cheers

chris

[TonyS]

Hi Chris, Yes there are barriers if you try and entre through the industrial estate off the roundabout from pleasly its self. But if you entre from Mansfield Woodhouse as the old guide books tell you to, then your fine and no problems.

The only problems I can forsee is those that the farmer is very displeased with the cutting of the trees (but as it looks like he is bulldozing a pathway in from an entrance above the house I dont see this as an issue anymore)

Hope you enjoy and hope to bump into you.

[chris05]

Great, thanks for the info, will give it a look as soon as I get chance. Will look forward to the topo. See you down there!

[rich d]

Anyone got the directions from mansfield woodhouse, I've only been once about 10yrs ago and it's now only just down the road from me.
Cheers Rich

[ChrisC]

It's roughly in the center of this map



Approach up Vale Road from Mansfield Woodhouse, park up at the coordinates: 53.18070, -1.2131 and follow a track along a stream into a field, crags on your left.

[rich d]

Thanks for that.