[Bonjoy]

Re-equipping 08

Mostly thanks to Jon Clarke. 

Upper Circle - WCJ
Pragma
Eat The Rich
The Inch Test

Cheedale

Entrée

High Tor

High Torquing
Wil E. Coyote
Pump Out The Squealies
Squeezing Out Sparks
Limelight

Turkey Dip Rocks

Step On It
The Land That Time Forgot
Animal Antics

Long Tor Quarry

Future Primitive

Rubicon

Zeke The Freak

WCJ Cornice

Albattrocitty – Recently done by Neil Bentley. Not using PBF kit, but thought I’d mention the fact it’s been done in case people wanted to get on it. Neil – I can provide you with some replacement bolts from the PBF stock for the ones you used and more bolts if you are thinking of doing other routes.

Jon C also mention he intends to do lots more down Cheedale soon, especially at Two Tier.

Not bolt related, but as an outcome of a meeting I had with Henry Folkhard and a guy from the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust last year, a number of Sycamores have been removed at the Embankment down Cheedale. This should hopefully mean that the good routes on the right end of the crag (Barefoot In A Pool Of Sharks, Fishing Without A Licence etc) should actually come into condition this year. There was also talk of removing some Sycamores from below The Nook, a great little crag in desperate need of sorting out (tree clearance and rebolting).

General points


 What gets rebolted is largely a function of who is bolting and what they are interested in. Re-bolting is hard, time consuming work and it is therefore not surprising that when people take time and effort to do it they will re-bolt the things they or their friends want to climb. It is conceivable that people might criticise the emphasis of the re-bolting as elitist. All I can say is, if you have routes you want re-bolted, learn to place bolts (contact the BMC and badger them to do a workshop), ask me for the kit and do some bolting. So far the PBF has not done a great deal because we don’t have people with the time, skills and inclination to get bolting. So much so that I have been loath to make any further pleas for donations.
 What work we have done has been mostly on relatively hard (upper 7 and 8 ) routes. This is for several reasons:
•   Resources, both time and money are very limited.
•   The bulk of the PBF funds have come from paypal donations, via email. To a large extend I therefore know who has donated what. A large proportion have been donations from people I have met at one time or another and who are or have been dedicated sport climbers operating in the (relatively) harder grades. I think it only fair that their interests/priorities are served first.
•   Gary Gibson does a great job re-equiping the peaks easier routes. In all fairness, unless people come to us with a desire to get involved and use PBF funds on easier routes, if you want to see your money go to re-equiping lower grade routes you may be better off donating to Gary’s fund. This isn't a deliberate policy, it's simply a consequence of who has offered assistance bolting. I'm keen to see routes of all grades re-bolted.
•    To a large extent the peak’s best sport routes (using stars in guides as a gauge) are either already fairly recently equipped or in the harder grades. This is partly because over the years Gary and others have put lot’s of work in at crags like Horseshoe, the Embankment, Harpur Hill etc. It is also related to the point below. There is an argument for re-quipping good quality routes before lower quality routes, even if the higher quality route will be less popular due to factors such as location and grade.
•    Because many of the peak’s hard steep crags are also it’s dirtiest and wettest, the gear rots faster and the routes are more hassle to re-equip. I would caution anyone to be VERY careful which bolts they trust at the Cheedale Cornice!

Please, if you have time and you know how to bolt, get in touch. The crags are drying off at the moment, now is the time to get involved.
If you don’t know how to bolt but you want to get involved, hassle the BMC for a workshop. Start off by downloading the excellent info on the BMC website here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2411


On a personal note I sometimes feel like an idiot for starting this bolt fund and then not really delivering the good as far as bolts in crags go (although we have raised a reasonable quantity, £1,500 approx, plus successfully bidding for a number of bolts from the BMC for re-equipment of the Cornices). I especially feel bad about accepting the donation of an expensive drill from Neil Foster, which has yet to see much action. I’d like to have the time to set an example by doing more bolting myself. On the other hand I have donated at least as much time as anyone else and a fair bit of money. Really I started this thing as a result of lots of people saying it needed doing. Me and Paul have put in the effort to start this fund, it would now be nice if a few more people threw their hats in the ring. I wish I had the time to do more, but the fact is I don’t, so unless I get some more offers of help the fund is not going to get used properly.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Re-equipping 08

         Cool thanks for the update Bonjoy. Thats quite a few routes that have been done this year sofar then. Well done all involved.


Cheers
Tim

[account_inactive]

I'm often free during the week so would be keen for some bolting.  Would it be possible to start by accompanying someone bolting before we are let loose on our own.  I've had a bit of experience with bolting but not a huge amount.

On another note thanks very much to all the people who have given up their time to get this started and equip the routes 

[Bonjoy]

Cheers Dylan. I might be out one evening next week going through how to bolt stuff with Paul. I'll let you know if it goes ahead, you're welcome along

[fat man]

ok so i'm a newbie on this forum and just wanted to add my thanks to the guys doing the rebolting!! great job!!!

i would also like to know what the line of bolts left of the sissy are?...is that a retro on the angler or something new?

Thanks again for the effort!!!!

F/M

[Kingy]

Its something new, although I have not tried it myself.

[pig]

That route to the left of sissy is a new project of zippys. Dirty little bouldery thing.
The sissy also has new bolts and a lower off (as for zeak), doing away with the tat.

[Bonjoy]

The original post had some mistakes and ommisions, I have editted.

[reeve]

Jon, is it plausible to teach bolting in an evening (to someone with a base level of practical skills approaching zero)? If so, can you let me know when you're off out with Paul, would also be keen to lend a hand.

I'd also like to thank all involved already  x

[fat man]

thanks for the info on that route.

does this mean its a 'closed' project as in i shouldnt try or has Zippy done it and its cool to get on?....apologies if the answer is obvious!

F/M

[Bonjoy]

I'll let you know Reeve

[Kingy]

does this mean its a 'closed' project as in i shouldnt try or has Zippy done it and its cool to get on?....apologies if the answer is obvious!

As far as I am aware, Zippy has not yet done it as it is a project.

[Houdini]

As far as I am aware, Zippy has not yet done it as it is a project.

This is some C & P from a late 80's article.

[Kingy]

Yes some things in the Peak just never change

[cowboyhat]

Great job on Zeke, (I believe it was Cristian?), Thanks. A good classic route brought up to date, proper 'ard innit.

This guy was asking about 'Too old to be Bold', which has in fact become very bold indeed. I wondered if there were any plans to sort the bolts out? Though it could easily be dismissed, I think it serves as a good introduction to the short bouldery routes of the area, being a bit easier and less weirdly reachy than Wild in Me.

I mention it only as I thought it may have been overlooked, though obviously some things have to be prioritized, others dismissed, Jons post covered these issues perfectly.

[Bonjoy]

Not a bad idea. TOTBB was my first 7c and although it's no super classic it is a good intro to hard Rubicon stuff. Could be a good one for Fi to get on. Might bolt that one myself when I get a chance

[cofe]

whereabouts is it at boobicon?

[Bonjoy]

Just right of Dangerous Brothers

[Slide]

Pennyworth:

May i suggest that Someone organises a bolting workshop one evening for anyone to turn up.  This could be a great way of getting many peoples up to speed quickly and whoever turns up can make a donation too?

[cowboyhat]

TOTBB was my first 7c

Me too. October 1993.

[Oli]

As a student, I have most of the summer off to climb, and as such would be happy to donate a few days to rebolting stuff if someone could teach me how to bolt. Although I've done very little peak sport climbing (I've only just found the psyche), I'd quite like to put something back into climbing.

Oli

[Bonjoy]

Cool. The drill batteries are at the fixers at the mo, but once they are back we'll get some sort of worshop thing together

[dave]

Word, if anyong was reading this thinking of getting on Too Old To Be Bold i can recommend it as a nice route, now with good bolts, although it still has a 20ft runout up piss easy ground at the top. all the shit it got in the last BMC and rockfax guides about being way too pollished is undeserved.

Secondly, would dangerous brothers be worth a rebolt? the bolts themselves must be getting on now, and the "belay" at the break consisting of two shonky looking pegs tied together with some old tat looks like an abortion and would benefit with sorting out.

[dave]

word, at the upper circle we looked (visually) at Pragma, cun't see any grips on the lower bit - has anyone got any noise on this one? specifically what the fuck you do? its give a grade easier than ETR but looks tons harder.

[Bonjoy]

I think the Chimping Almond Habanero has done Pragma, he might remember something.
Request for bolting DB is noted.