[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi All,
           can anyone give me any beta or info about Aberration,Minus and Celebration? My main questions are about where these Routes all cross.

• Does Minus go through the roof at 2/3rsds hight direct or just right of the roof, ie left of the bolts or directly up the bolted rounded arete.
• Does abberation continue traversing just under this small roof at 2/3rds height on minus, till it is right of the minus bolt line and then move upwards just left of the peg?

found it difficult to determine which methods to use on these routes. When pulling over the roof on minus once you get stood up, apart from some almost unuseable flat crimps i found some holds so far out right that i couldnt get them from the left shoulder i was using. It was almost as if you diddnt go over the roof on the good holds as it left you stranded?

Tried the start of minus and its utterly desperate. I must get stronger.........


Cheers
Tim

[Bonjoy]

Do you mean Minos on Sector Nadin? It's been ages since I did it. All I can remember is hard slab/wall move rightwards, at roughly half height, involving not much for hands. Seem to recall thumbing a tiny hold, possibly an undercut.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Do you mean Minos on Sector Nadin? It's been ages since I did it. All I can remember is hard slab/wall move rightwards, at roughly half height, involving not much for hands. Seem to recall thumbing a tiny hold, possibly an undercut.

Aye that sounds about right. Problem im finding here is that you have a good left hand gaston, and just above your head some very por slab holds. At about your waist out a metre right there is a small positive crimp and again further right another move positive crimp.

aaarrrrrgh just have to have another look next time.

Just spent quite a bit on it trying to workout if from below the roof it went.
*Up,horrendous slab moves and up
*or up and very balancey reachy moves right and up
*or up right of the roof and direct up the arête.
the most likely felt like a combination over the roof directly and then some wierd moves i couldn't quite establish to get through the two crimps rightwards and onto the arête.

Cheers
Tim

p.s. Also do you think there are any ethical reasons why the top of aberration doesnt have bolts in it?

[etjoset]

Minos pulls over the roof using good holds about 1 m left of the bolt line (it originally went direct where the bolt line runs but has long since lost holds). The actual moves through the roof are easy. Once over the roof you can stand in balance almost no handed and recover. It is then quite a stretch right to clip the next bolt (helps to have a long-ish draw on). The move right from here across the slab is quite baffling. Basically, you stand on the flake above the roof in balance, put your right toe out right and quite high in a very small divot and lean a long way right to reach a small sidepull with you right hand which you cannot see unless it's well chalked. Use this to step on to your poor right foot hold and bring your left foot through. You should then be able to cross your left hand over to better sidepulls and step through onto good holds. This slab move is puzzling and feels precarious on first acquaintance but is considerably easier than the moves off the ground.

Abberation crosses the Minos bolt line about 2-3 m below the roof. I think you clip the thrid (?) bolt on Minos as part of this traverse.

If you cannot manage the start of Minos then do Celebration which starts up Abberation and finishes up Minos (hard 7c or easy 7c+) - really good climbing.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Minos pulls over the roof using good holds about 1 m left of the bolt line (it originally went direct where the bolt line runs but has long since lost holds). The actual moves through the roof are easy. Once over the roof you can stand in balance almost no handed and recover. It is then quite a stretch right to clip the next bolt (helps to have a long-ish draw on). The move right from here across the slab is quite baffling. Basically, you stand on the flake above the roof in balance, put your right toe out right and quite high in a very small divot and lean a long way right to reach a small sidepull with you right hand which you cannot see unless it's well chalked. Use this to step on to your poor right foot hold and bring your left foot through. You should then be able to cross your left hand over to better sidepulls and step through onto good holds. This slab move is puzzling and feels precarious on first acquaintance but is considerably easier than the moves off the ground.

Abberation crosses the Minos bolt line about 2-3 m below the roof. I think you clip the thrid (?) bolt on Minos as part of this traverse.

If you cannot manage the start of Minos then do Celebration which starts up Abberation and finishes up Minos (hard 7c or easy 7c+) - really good climbing.

Cool I think i'll do celebration then. As the start of minus is beyond me at the moment. do fancy Abberation but not sure how the moves/gear goes at the top. Probably worth taking some wires i guess?

Cheers
Tim

[Peanuts]

Just to add, the start of Minos is not significantly different from its originnal condition, it was a horibly butch move on poor undercuts and still is. This was always the crux unless you are 'really' bad at slabs 

[StuM]

don't mean to hijack the thread...well, actually I do, but, does this mean two tier is dry?

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Not sure. It's first time ive been there and i went on saturday. It rained somewhat on sunday however. It wasn't totally dry but there were a team on why me and the 7 next to it. i went on quality control for a warmup and the top of that was very seepy in places.



Cheers
tim

[etjoset]

Cool I think i'll do celebration then. As the start of minus is beyond me at the moment. do fancy Abberation but not sure how the moves/gear goes at the top. Probably worth taking some wires i guess?

Most people climb to the last bolt on Abberation and call that it. I don't think the final moves add much difficulty. There was talk of (re)equipping the top bit and adding a proper lower off but it's a pain to strip. Most ascendants bolt-to-bolt reverse the route taking the draws out as they go.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Cool I think i'll do celebration then. As the start of minus is beyond me at the moment. do fancy Abberation but not sure how the moves/gear goes at the top. Probably worth taking some wires i guess?

Most people climb to the last bolt on Abberation and call that it. I don't think the final moves add much difficulty. There was talk of (re)equipping the top bit and adding a proper lower off but it's a pain to strip. Most ascendants bolt-to-bolt reverse the route taking the draws out as they go.

Must have been a bit blind then but i thought that the bolted arete on minos has the last bolt of abberation? i seem to remember then seeing a 4 mere runout to a potentially dodgy peg and then potentially another 4 metre runout to where i suspected the belay was but it was out of sight?

so if people finish now on the last bolt where is this roughtly in respect to doing the start of abberation till it meets minos at the roof?

Cheers
Tim

[Kingy]

Tim I'm sure you can do the start of Minos, just give it some beef. It was years ago and I have not done the whole route but I remember reaching up into a high glued undercut with crap feet...burly. The rest of it is really balancey rather than desparate although the slab move at the top will give most ppl pause for thought.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hmm,
           not so sure about that ted. Might take a matt next time. And not entirely sure it hadn't lost more holds. Weather is gorgeous and im stuf in an unairconditioned office for the whole week. 


Cheers
Tim

[Kingy]

Fair play I don't know what state the start's in at the minute. I would be keen to check it out if you fancy going there this weekend (I will call you nearer the time). I am not working til mon but have a dicky finger so can't go out    Still, hopefully the physio will give it the all clear tomorrow. Meanwhile the Dave Mac icebaths continue...

[The Sausage]

I did Minos (not Minus) last year just before all the rain, so presume it hasn't lost any holds since then. The start felt terribly hard (i.e. impossible) until I gritted my teeth and tried a bit harder. Cruxy 7c+s should be hard. It's just a bit intricate after that, but if you get it dialed you won't fall off.

[IanP]

Fair play I don't know what state the start's in at the minute. I would be keen to check it out if you fancy going there this weekend (I will call you nearer the time). I am not working til mon but have a dicky finger so can't go out   Still, hopefully the physio will give it the all clear tomorrow. Meanwhile the Dave Mac icebaths continue...

Hi Ted, have sent you an email, could be interested in getting out Sunday
Ian