Had a look at it on Tuesday eve, amazing in a very dismaying proper dirty Gaskins' style
Rubicon, England.This must must be a lot harder than the Low Left Press 8a+ (jugs in comparison!). I think Smit should try it and report back.
so,it's 8b then?c'mon..... everyone says it's monster, and harder than the 8a+ just next to it.......
The hold Dan has with his RH in the photo is a bit like the Revelations pocket (difficult to crimp, difficult to slope) requiring bizarre hang strength but probably 4 times smaller. However I reckon you can also gaston the right side of this hold with 2 fingers (equally horendous but in a differnet way).
Quote from: fatdoc on May 05, 2008, 07:50:54 pmso,it's 8b then?c'mon..... everyone says it's monster, and harder than the 8a+ just next to it.......nail on the head
Quote from: Doylo on May 05, 2008, 08:54:13 pmQuote from: fatdoc on May 05, 2008, 07:50:54 pmso,it's 8b then?c'mon..... everyone says it's monster, and harder than the 8a+ just next to it.......nail on the headI hope this does get upgraded (not that I'm in any position to judge either these grades or this particular problem but from reading others comments.....) because I always thought the top Peak climbers shot themselves in the foot a little in late '80s, early 90s. It saddens me to read comments such as 'Liquid Amber, maybe the first 8c+ in the world' or 'Hubble, may have been the first 9a in the world' when they could have been graded as such originally and become more lauded on a world scale. Likewise surely you have to wonder about something like Superman which is in the middle of the Peak, a Jerry tick and yet has still only recieved a handful(?) of ascents (I know about the crumbling foot holds and sidepull etc but even so).I know its minor point but it has the potential to skew history slightly, and for what? On the other hand if this problem really is 8a+ you can disregard the above , if you haven't already.Sorry I got a bit there, well done Dan!
It's not really a case of 'upgrading' to 8b. Going on what Dan said, I wrote 'minumum 8a+', i.e. 8a+ or harder, yet to be confirmed. These are big numbers and I imagine he's wary of going in with a big number. What's needed is some pedigree crimpers to give it a go to settle the grade.
I'd sooner see the grade confirmed by world class rock boulderers, not dog groomers.