Le Lepreux direct (Read 7829 times)

Dr T · October 21, 2007, 10:40:55 am

Can I get a cleared up answer on this on from someone who knows - becuase the locals tell me one thing then another...

are you allowed to reach in from the side pull for the 7a... especially since the undercuts to the left have been v. badly eroded away.

it's really not clear from the guidebooks

(vid courtesy of our friend the starfish)

and lager..

that's a fun one too did it a while back but not seen it in any guide...

dave · October 21, 2007, 10:47:43 am

when we did it it was undercuts (which were poor anyway) to the pair of slopers then top. since then (and since most of the guides were written) the undercut has bust, which explains why some of the guides don't mention it.

i've not tried it since this breakage, but since the undercuts weren't great to start with its probablt possible the same way justa bit harder. using the sidepull will probably be an easier 7a than it originally was cos althought the undercut move wasn't the crux, it wasn't trivial either.

a dense loner · October 21, 2007, 04:24:03 pm

it's much easier coming in from the sidepull, not 7a. you can still pull on the undercuts they're just awful tho, not 7a. take one or two on or off depending on which way you do it

Paul B · October 21, 2007, 08:18:42 pm

I agree regards the sidepull, makes it tonnes easier, however the u/cuts are not that bad and certainly dont warrent adding any more than a humble plus (IMO).

lagerstarfish · October 22, 2007, 01:42:10 pm

Reaching in from the big, positive sidepull makes the problem a one move affair. I find it impossible to grade one move problems. Does feel too easy for 7a, but I think that every time I do one. Jasper did it from the sidepull (easily) on the same day he did Le Coeur and found them comparible (in August - so quite warm). I've had differing info from locals about which starts are in for 7a. Grades eh?

squeek · October 23, 2007, 01:56:26 pm

Quote from: Paul B on October 21, 2007, 08:18:42 pm

I agree regards the sidepull, makes it tonnes easier, however the u/cuts are not that bad and certainly dont warrent adding any more than a humble plus (IMO).

Really? The hold bust between my last two trips, and on the first trip I was going for the top, and the undercut move was going ok. Last time I went I could do the move trying to use the undercut, or even come close. In fact I'm unsure anyone did the move off the undercut, and I was there with a few good climbers.

a dense loner · October 23, 2007, 02:03:54 pm

maybe they're just not very good on 7a(+ish) undercut moves squeek

i thought the move was harder, but not by too much. just very unpleasant

lagerstarfish · March 10, 2008, 11:58:45 am

someone starting from the undercuts... I think

Zods Beard · March 10, 2008, 05:15:46 pm

Quote from: Dr T on October 21, 2007, 10:40:55 am

that's a fun one too did it a while back but not seen it in any guide...

Is this too the left of the original problem? I think we did this on our trip, really nice.

abarro81 · March 10, 2008, 06:38:14 pm

A friend and I did it off the undercuts at new year and thought it was fine for 7a... but then we're both tall...

Fiend · March 10, 2008, 06:39:43 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 10, 2008, 11:58:45 am

someone starting from the undercuts... I think

Isn't this just an arbitrary eliminate?? I.e. instead of climbing the bloody obvious l-r undercut flake, go vaguely upwards desperately trying to avoid the obvious holds just by your right hand... Doesn't strike me as Font at it's finest...

Dr T · March 10, 2008, 06:48:19 pm

Quote from: Zods Beard on March 10, 2008, 05:15:46 pm

Quote from: Dr T on October 21, 2007, 10:40:55 am

that's a fun one too did it a while back but not seen it in any guide...

Is this too the left of the original problem? I think we did this on our trip, really nice.

it's on the boulder behind as you look at lepreux..

erm, sam · March 10, 2008, 09:16:04 pm

Quote

Doesn't strike me as Font at it's finest...

Yeah, but the sloping barely even holds quality of the erm, slopers is fantastic. Even if the rest (start and finish) of the prob are less magnificent

KH · March 10, 2008, 11:10:12 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 10, 2008, 11:58:45 am

someone starting from the undercuts... I think

Hey that's me! Sorry about the aggresive end, it was 35 deg. and those slopers were starting to get so bad I thought I wouldn't get it done.

I started from the undercuts and this was the hardest move on it.

lagerstarfish · March 10, 2008, 11:18:36 pm

Quote from: KH on March 10, 2008, 11:10:12 pm

I started from the undercuts and this was the hardest move on it.

Nice one Kev (assuming that you are Kev). What do you think, 7a?

KH · March 10, 2008, 11:18:53 pm

Quote from: Fiend on March 10, 2008, 06:39:43 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 10, 2008, 11:58:45 am
someone starting from the undercuts... I think

Isn't this just an arbitrary eliminate?? I.e. instead of climbing the bloody obvious l-r undercut flake, go vaguely upwards desperately trying to avoid the obvious holds just by your right hand... Doesn't strike me as Font at it's finest...

Maybe, but for me this felt as good if not better than other classic 7a's in the forest.

Also, grade wise, it felt bang on for 7a from the undercuts.

KH · March 10, 2008, 11:19:58 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 10, 2008, 11:18:36 pm

Quote from: KH on March 10, 2008, 11:10:12 pm

I started from the undercuts and this was the hardest move on it.

Nice one Kev (assuming that you are Kev). What do you think, 7a?

I accidentally gave you my answer before seeing your post.

lagerstarfish · March 10, 2008, 11:38:23 pm

Quote from: KH on March 10, 2008, 11:10:12 pm

Hey that's me! Sorry about the aggresive end, it was 35 deg. and those slopers were starting to get so bad I thought I wouldn't get it done.

I started from the undercuts and this was the hardest move on it.

Quote

Maybe, but for me this felt as good if not better than other classic 7a's in the forest.

Also, grade wise, it felt bang on for 7a from the undercuts.

This, plus the video to clarify matters = sorted

well, for me anyway

You satisfied, Dr T?

Dr T · March 11, 2008, 03:00:44 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 10, 2008, 11:38:23 pm

You satisfied, Dr T?

always easily satisfied me.....

ferret · March 11, 2008, 10:37:21 pm

u now jump start 1st move. rh undercut jump to lh sidepull. once on the wall go again of the undercut (this move is no harder than it was) establish on slimps dyno top. the crux is still the last move and its still 7a

Jaspersharpe · April 16, 2008, 10:18:00 am

We redid this the other week with the proper start in decent conditions (i.e. not August) and 7A is fair. Pulling on with a high step is the crux imo. It is a very nice problem and doesn't feel eliminate at all as once you pull on then moving out right to the big sidepull on the 6A would be unnecessary, feel like you were moving offline and probably be harder anyway.

Quote from: ferret on March 11, 2008, 10:37:21 pm

u now jump start 1st move.

No you most certainly do not.

lagerstarfish · April 16, 2008, 11:11:47 am

Jasper did it like this...

His previous ascent was much better, as he did it completely static - the camera must have put him off.

KH · April 16, 2008, 02:08:01 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on April 16, 2008, 10:18:00 am

We redid this the other week with the proper start in decent conditions (i.e. not August) and 7A is fair. Pulling on with a high step is the crux imo. It is a very nice problem and doesn't feel eliminate at all as once you pull on then moving out right to the big sidepull on the 6A would be unnecessary, feel like you were moving offline and probably be harder anyway.

Quote from: ferret on March 11, 2008, 10:37:21 pm
u now jump start 1st move.

No you most certainly do not.

Good work Jasper! Agree that it doesn't feel like an eliminate at all when you pull on and the problem is excellent. Pulling on was the most difficult part of the problem, but no harder than 7a IMO too.

Le Lepreux direct (Read 7829 times)

dave