UKBouldering.com

Full Mwyn Traverse goes down! (Read 2794 times)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 12, 2008, 08:10:57 pm
Holger the German has done the traverse of Pantymywn starting from the sitstart of Thug Mentality and finishing at the top of Firestarter. This is a very long problem which probably weighs in at Font 8a or F8b+ route grade. This effort was even more impressive considering that two holds on the Mental extension have broken recently making the problem harder. Pantontino has got some pics.
Also at the Mwyn Danny got the second ascent of his bro's Under Pressure/Be Ruthless link downgrading it to 8a with a slightly different sequence. :thumbsup:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#1 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 12, 2008, 10:18:38 pm
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#2 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 12, 2008, 11:37:10 pm
Nice one Hol, and nice one for sticking with it.

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#3 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 13, 2008, 09:32:26 am
Great effort. He was doing many laps on the original V11 + a bit more when I saw him last month.

There and back next?  :-\

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#4 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 13, 2008, 09:37:52 am
The original bit is probably a tricky 7c+ now the holds broke, i reckon the final thrutching across the break just about bumps it up to 8a.
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Too many projects as it is sausage!

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#5 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 13, 2008, 10:49:32 am
Effort Holger!  And it's not mono's through and through so he wasn't on home ground doing one armers on nasty pockets.  Makes it worth while leaving the Frankenjura after all...

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#6 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 14, 2008, 10:43:09 am
A pic of yer man Holger showing the closing sequence leading into the top of Firestarter:



Plus a load more here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=340

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#7 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 14, 2008, 12:30:31 pm
is there a topo for the bouldering in this area anywhere??

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#8 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 14, 2008, 01:01:15 pm
is there a topo for the bouldering in this area anywhere??

There is no up-to-date topo but there is one for the right sid eof the crag here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=327

There is also a topo for the bouldering in the clwyd rockfax limestone.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#9 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 14, 2008, 07:42:52 pm
The original bit is probably a tricky 7c+ now the holds broke, i reckon the final thrutching across the break just about bumps it up to 8a.
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Too many projects as it is sausage!

Speaking of projects, fancy a trip to last great project in Wales? Get a crew together with lots of pads....

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#10 Re: Full Mwyn Traverse goes down!
April 14, 2008, 08:31:37 pm
The original bit is probably a tricky 7c+ now the holds broke, i reckon the final thrutching across the break just about bumps it up to 8a.
Sounds like one for you Chris.....

Too many projects as it is sausage!

Speaking of projects, fancy a trip to last great project in Wales? Get a crew together with lots of pads....

not my scene, i'm a married man...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal