[SA Chris]

Patrica in the woods, where is it?

It's actually been renamed Sally in the Woods, no idea why.

r-man is on the money with directions though. There is an obvious path and boulders can be seen from it walking in either direction. Worth a stop if passing, but not a journey.

Houdini reminded me of some S Wales stuff; theres a great arete at Porthcawl too. and some amazing wave washed stuff below Ogmore.

[Houdini]

Chaos Emerald Crack V5/6c or Limpet V6/7a at Angel Bay.

Well its reassuring to know I've done one of the top five lime problems in the uk, in the opinion of perhaps the most respected prolific writer on the subject. It was still wank.

[BenF]

BenF - the slopey sidepull (technical delight) left of Borg is Crystal. 

Sorry, I meant the problem up the wall just left of Crystal, via two slopers to undercuts in the roof.  About 7b I think, very good and not eliminate before anyone asks.

Pantontino or anyone - whose problem is Chaos Emerald Crack?  I like the Sonic reference?

I think it's Simon's actually.  Most things at Angel Bay sem to have been climbed first by him!

[fatdoc]

Pinch II variant undercut move !

is this *punter pinch* i.e: go over for the BIG left hand hold in the small break, and use the *naughty* left foot hold...#


best 7b+ / 7b in the world....

[cowboyhat]

I'm with Dave/Jasper. Pathband or Staminapath.

Specifically, Staminapath climbs from the start of staminaband to the jug at the start of PUTP. I don't like doing the last move...

[Paz]

BenF - Ah, the obvious gap! It's been done?  I always thought there were no holds on that.  Cool I look forward to trying it.

I've been to that amazing trench near Ogmore too Chirs.  Didn't do anything, there were no holds on it ;-). 

[Andy Harris]

Cor blimey what a question.

Maybe Blueband as I used to be able to outlap Stuart Cameron on it and it's everything (burly, fingery, tensiony (is that a word).

Or possibly Seans problem at Crag X which is class.

Always liked PowerAllowance in Tom's

Sean's at -10 was always a classic

and ok so it's a route but Jehovakill has fantastic moves, especially if you can lock the crux

[BenF]

BenF - Ah, the obvious gap! It's been done?  I always thought there were no holds on that.  Cool I look forward to trying it.

Get to it Paz, it's very good and unlike much else at the crag.  Make sure the sun isn't on the holds though as the slopers need good conditions to work. 

[Pantontino]

Pantontino or anyone - whose problem is Chaos Emerald Crack?  I like the Sonic reference?

Both Chaos Emerald Crack and The Limpet were first done by Patch Hammond. I was down there trying Sonic Boom, fell off last bit, and then went and did Limpet as a consolation prize, only to bump into Patch later, who told me he'd climbed it the day before.

[Idol eyes]

Rene Arete!!! this area is one of my favorite slime stone areas

[Pantontino]

Chaos Emerald Crack V5/6c or Limpet V6/7a at Angel Bay.

Well its reassuring to know I've done one of the top five lime problems in the uk, in the opinion of perhaps the most respected writer on the subject. It was still wank.

One day JB you will see the (lime)light, it happens to even the most ardent grit fanatic. Look at Pete Robins these days, you can't get him to climb anywhere else but Parisella's.

[Doylo]

yeah Pete got bored with grit years ago thats why he moved to wales.

[BenF]

Both Chaos Emerald Crack and The Limpet were first done by Patch Hammond.

I stand corrected.  I guess Simon would know. 

[Pantontino]

Rene Arete!!! this area is one of my favorite slime stone areas

Pat, great problem, and unusually for limestone involves a funky mantelling maneouvre.

[El Mocho]

I've been to that amazing trench near Ogmore too Chirs.  Didn't do anything, there were no holds on it ;-). 

I make a point of going here every time I am 'working' anywhere near. I love the place.

The entire place is covered with holds, you just have to give them a tap first so they grip on. I like to remove a couple at ground level and carry them up in my chalk bag, I can then place them just where I need them on the crux (limpets in case you don't know what I am talking about...)

[Richie Crouch]

Under The Bridge at Pantymwyn for sure.

Also a close 2nd is the problem Ben and Paz were thinking of - Passion 7A+/B at Roche (with the big rockover off the greasy left hand sloper to undercuts in roof).

[SA Chris]

I've been to that amazing trench near Ogmore too Chirs.  Didn't do anything, there were no holds on it ;-). 

I make a point of going here every time I am 'working' anywhere near. I love the place.

The entire place is covered with holds, you just have to give them a tap first so they grip on. I like to remove a couple at ground level and carry them up in my chalk bag, I can then place them just where I need them on the crux (limpets in case you don't know what I am talking about...)

I have also been to the trench Trench, with nae grips. This is the boulders directly below the main crag itself. Had some great fun on them waiting for the tide to come in so we could do EE. Went back a month later and the beach had moved so they were just about buried. Worth keeping an eye on them as they can re-emerge at any time, like mushrooms through the pavement.

[Paz]

Yeah you can eat them too if you get hungry.  Quite nice if the sea's not too muddy there.  If there's enough seepage down the back then The Trench has everything required to sustain life.

[DubDom]

Agree with that, hence my overlooked favourite smashes the myth by starting on the ground and topping the bloc out -
Repetitive beats at that esoteric spot near Doncaster. (ask bonjoy for directions!)
[/quote]


Is that sprotbrough by any chance - is it worth a trip?

[BenF]

Also a close 2nd is the problem Ben and Paz were thinking of - Passion 7A+/B at Roche (with the big rockover off the greasy left hand sloper to undercuts in roof).

Only greasy after you've been near it you greasy fat punter. 

[andy_e]

Rene Arete!!! this area is one of my favorite slime stone areas

Pat, great problem, and unusually for limestone involves a funky mantelling maneouvre.

Where is it?

[Monolith]

Angel Bay.

[Bonjoy]

Agree with that, hence my overlooked favourite smashes the myth by starting on the ground and topping the bloc out -
Repetitive beats at that esoteric spot near Doncaster. (ask bonjoy for directions!)

Is that sprotbrough by any chance - is it worth a trip?

Yep. Andy's prob is great and the one to the right is also good. In general I didn't think the crag was up to much tough. However it may look a lot better with more lines cleaned and chalked.

[Paul B]

Moffatrocity

[Jim]

rockattrosity for me.