[k2ted]

apologies if glaringly obvious.

normally train at the wall a few nights (outside when can!) then 1-2 fingerboard sessions per week with upto 20kg extra.

Are weighted hangs to be used as part of a stength cycle say for 3 weeks only then no extra weight (during fingerboard sessions) for all other parts of training??. Or would you train with weighted hangs throughout the year with whatever cycle your training??

Reason being that (sometimes)if I do a 90 minute weighted hangboard session it can sometimes leave forearms sore (DOMS) for upto 3+days.

[Paul B]

DOMS for three days regularly after a session? If so you're not eating right.

[k2ted]

so does that mean you can do weighted hangs all the time?

think my diet os OK but had doms for about 4 days. Did vary the holds a little too which is part of thre cause.

[Paul B]

so does that mean you can do weighted hangs all the time?

think my diet os OK but had doms for about 4 days. Did vary the holds a little too which is part of thre cause.

You're diet might be clean as a freshly washed sheet but its simple if your getting DOMS for that long then you're not getting enough protein at the right times to recover, hence the long period of DOMS. I'm not the one to answer you on hangs as i've never done them, Dylan et al. will be able to answer that for you i'm sure.

[k2ted]

cheers. will try for more protein following training, drinks etc every 4 hours.

started hangs as I'm 14stone and finger strength was lacking severely. Improved lots now.

[Nibile]

obviously you can do weighted dead hangs throughout the entire year, but not in the same way, not with the same aim. you can't (as i was trying to do) always train finger power by raising the weight.
as said in the other thread (fingerboard and campusboard routines) as part of a power developing cycle you should dead hang for around six sessions, or three weeks, and that will give you the highest gains.
as i found out, after that your efforts are not rewarded by coherent gains: you waste time and energy training not well.

[Monolith]

By fluke, I managed to find two weighted belts today although sadly together they only total 20lbs. Looks easy enough to strap a weight plate to with a small tape, but what resistance are people dead hanging/board climbing with?

[Paul B]

20lbs is what like 8kg, I think thats more than enough for board climbing.

Hangs god knows, a lot I think.

[Nibile]

20lbs is what like 8kg, I think thats more than enough for board climbing.

Hangs god knows, a lot I think.

exactly.
i went up to 47,5 kilos on 8 mm edge. it hurt my hips as hell. never done it again, far better to shift to one arming.
gullich was tested by german scientists up to 175 kilos, then they had no more weights in the lab...

[The Sausage]

i personally do 1 hand hangs, using a pulley/counterweight with the other arm to get greater than half body weight loads. the advantages are that it's far more comfortable than hanging weights off you, and you need to use your shoulder girdle more to stay front on.

[Robbo]

I've gone and tweeked my ring finger A2 doing weighted hangs on my fingerboard. I'll never do that again. Better off doing one handed assisted hangs i reckon

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

What do people think about the weight verses the size of the hold? is it better/safer to use the same size but increase weight or do people still use tiny sizes with weight?

Cheers
Tim

[galpinos]

Robbo, is that Lapin ou Canard in your avatar?

[Serpico]

I've gone and tweeked my ring finger A2 doing weighted hangs on my fingerboard. I'll never do that again. Better off doing one handed assisted hangs i reckon

Same difference; if you weigh 70kgs and wear a 30kg weight belt it's 50kg per hand, if you hang one handed but use assistance to take 20kgs off it's still 50kg of strain on your hand.

[Serpico]

What do people think about the weight verses the size of the hold? is it better/safer to use the same size but increase weight or do people still use tiny sizes with weight?

Cheers
Tim

As long as it's 1st joint, stick with the same size hold and add weight/decrease assistance/increase time etc.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

What do people think about the weight verses the size of the hold? is it better/safer to use the same size but increase weight or do people still use tiny sizes with weight?

Cheers
Tim

As long as it's 1st joint, stick with the same size hold and add weight/decrease assistance/increase time etc.

thanks mate. suspected this was adequate and safer but wanted some backup advice.

Cheers
Tim

[account_inactive]

What do people think about the weight verses the size of the hold? is it better/safer to use the same size but increase weight or do people still use tiny sizes with weight?

Cheers
Tim

As long as it's 1st joint, stick with the same size hold and add weight/decrease assistance/increase time etc.

The angle of the PIP joint is the most important aspect. I find that smaller holds rely more on friction and pain tolerance than working different aspects of grip.

As Le Saucisson mentioned, one arm hangs will also develop shoulder girdle stabilisation.  I often find it easier to hold one handed holds in a locked position due to weak shoulders.

[Serpico]

I often find it easier to hold one handed holds in a locked position due to weak shoulders.

Same here.

[galpinos]

As Le Saucisson mentioned, one arm hangs will also develop shoulder girdle stabilisation.  I often find it easier to hold one handed holds in a locked position due to weak shoulders.

Which means it's better to do assited 1 hand hangs as opposed to weighted 2 hand hangs? Or is it better just to mix it up?

[Serpico]

There's pro's and cons. Ste Dunning swears by 2 handed deadhangs for the shoulders because he can use a wide grip. And if you have got weak shoulders 2 handed hangs won't limit the weight your fingers will take to the ability to stabilize the shoulder joint. I find with 2 handed hangs it's hard not to shift your weight under your stronger hand, and hanging 1 armed also means you can tailor the amount of assistance for each hand. The usual reason for switching from 2 to 1 arm hangs is practicality; there comes a point where it's easier to start using assistance than piling loads of weight on.

[k2ted]

whats your opinion on this...

With the moon fingerboard I cant crimp using both hands (too weak )   but train each hand (for crimping) seperately, open hand 3 fingers on one hand and crimp on the other. Would it be better to use assisted one arm hangs, adjusting the weight etc??

If so gonna get a pulley from somewhere. Any cheap places for a pulley?

[galpinos]

Cheers Serpico. I've got pretty wank shoulders, one of which has been operated on (dislocation and snapped/chipped glenoid) so am trying to work out whether the affect on the shoulders from the one handed hang would be good or bad.

k2ted - Cheap stuff in Decathlon, pulleys, handles etc.

[k2ted]

cheers. will have look in Decathlon.

[Monolith]

If so gonna get a pulley from somewhere. Any cheap places for a pulley?

Can you put a pullup bar in the doorway where your fingerboard is situated? Take a long sling or suitably sized piece of rope.  Knot t the end once you have put the appropriate number of weight plates on it.Put your harness on, hang your weights over the bar and deadhang away.

[k2ted]

will give it a try with weights over the bar 1st. sounds pretty simple... cheers

[a dense loner]

i don't really think one-arm assisted hangs are in any way similar to hanging on one-arm except in the name. the difference in the strength required across the shoulder girdle is massive