[belperpete]

Hi there and glad you rate the place. Been away for a while so will check out LPQ stuff. I know that the owner ( a building magnate, from Rotherham, I'm told)
is putting up some new housing development, but haven't seen plans. Likewise, I'll be really peed off if things go bottom up!

[Bonjoy]

 I wouldn't be surprised with the house building industry in it's current state the guy might choose to do nothing major with the land for now, at least until the financial climate is a bit more favourable.

[andy popp]

JC, Belperpete etc., there's a thread over on UKC asking what are the new lines of bolts at High Tor. I'm not sure but they (UKCers) might be getting them confused. You might want to see if they need putting right.

[Falling Down]

Could someone be kind enough to let me know which venues and routes are likely to stay dry this week?

[Bonjoy]

Long Tor should be fine so long as the rain isn't torrential. Lorry Park is ok in light rain but quite vertical so less protected. Turkey Dip is super steep, but can be greasy if it's been misty/drizzly. The High Tor Stuff should be fine so long as the rain is moderate. The bits at Willersley and New Bridge Buttress should be fine.

[dobbin]

Is Turkey dip access allright? someone mentioned it might be banned? and it certainly is on private land. If its allright then its certainly worth a visit.

[whealiebob]

I climb with a guy who works for Enthoevens who own the land. They did put 'No Climbing' signs up, but according to him they're really not that bothered. Think they just did it to cover themselves.

We go down there when its raining and never had any trouble.

Cheers!

[Falling Down]

Thanks Jon and Dobbin... will check them out this week.

[belperpete]

New routes at Lorry Park - Jon Clark climbed Dark Matter, the overhanging wall between Supercrack and Edge of Darkness today. It blasts off with some intense, bouldery style moves
and continues in a similar vein on pockets and crimps to final slopy moves and a slap for the finishing ledge. Possibly low end 8a (but no grabbing chain) and an absolute 3* classic wall climb.
An indirect start was done yesterday, using the bottom third of Edge of Darkness to reach the traverse into the middle of the wall at low end 7c??
These are just 2 of a number of brilliant climbs to be had and the quarry is in excellent condition at the moment.
Should be some more new stuff before long too. Check it out if you've been yet - you won't be disappointed (promise)!

[belperpete]

I meant to say, check it out if you've NOT been yet etc.

[Bonjoy]

Effort to Jon, that line looks uber thin!

[belperpete]

Effort to Jon, that line looks uber thin!

Hi Jon and yep, it's quite intense. Get down here - we need some repeats and it's truly excellent.
More news, JC completed 2 projects at Turkey Dip today, both bordering 8a - Overkill starts up Unleashed, reverses Onslaught and finishes up Pedal to the Metal.
Also, as yet unnamed, the left-side project starting over the cave and then, more off than on, grinding up the Font 7c boulder problem, overhanging wall to the lower-off. Different to anything else here.
More to come down here!
What have you been up to?

[Bonjoy]

The grit switch was flipped quite early this year, maybe due to the summer rains. I've been pretty exclusively tradding on the grit for the past few weeks. Even did a few new things in the Amber Valley.
Will certainly be checking these out when the lime switch happens again.

[belperpete]

  Although cold (obviously) crag conditions excellent at the moment, due to the dry weather.
See the following http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10727.0.html

[belperpete]

Conditions excellent on most crags down here and a few things to report.
A new line at Lorry Park - Squealer Direct (borderline 7c+/8a) - Jon Clark.
Misses out the moves leftwards, to the mid-height rest and powers straight through to the Squealer top wall.
 :dance1:More development to come.
By the way, recent clearance work in the quarry bottom signifies a need to keep a low profile.
Don't know what's gonna happen with the building scheme, so get in there and bag those routes!
Also, Newbridge Buttress now equipped and (just about) permadry.
A clutch of excellent routes, on perfect rock, from 6c to 7c+ and offering a great day or two's climbing.
Malcolm Taylor's route Trick Psychlist (7c+) is excellent and a new route here - The Mentalist (7a) - the right-hand line. Excellent!
The sport lines at Willersley have seen some attention and good feedback received.
Finally, I've got to give a plug for a truly great route of Gary Gibson's at Slaley Brook - Too Monsterosity 7a***.
18 clips - dead solid - an intriguing crux - awesome! Believe me, it deserves more traffic, for sure, because of the sheer quality!
What's prompted me to post this (but has reminded me how good the original route was) is an excellent new variation done by JC, climbing the steep wall to the left of the crux section at 7a+.
It's already been repeated by Mark Richardson.
Major 'new line' repeats needed at Long Tor, Lorry Park, Turkey Dip, High Tor etc.

[Falling Down]

Nice one Pete... where's Newbridge Buttress ?

[JC]

Nice one Pete... where's Newbridge Buttress ?

Wildcat  -  go over the bridge near the park and its straight up a steep slope in front of you, behind an information sign.

[Falling Down]

Thankyou sir... will check it out.

[belperpete]

You're more than welcome, but can I ask you, if you do actually get on any of these great routes, post some feedback.
I guarantee that you won't be disappointed with any of them!!

[Mark Lloyd]

Is there any potential for bouldering at New Bridge Buttress
Worth a lunchtime session ?

[JC]

Is there any potential for bouldering at New Bridge Buttress
Worth a lunchtime session ?

Probably not, nothing hard anyway. The bottom of the wall is mostly just off vertical.  Although i think it has been bouldered on a bit in the past.

[belperpete]

Jon climbed Pete Cresswell's old project at Lorry Park yesterday, to give an extremely good and technical 8a pitch.
It's just to the right of Deceptive, is very varied and, with no real resting holds, will all too
easily spit the weak out!! No name, as yet. Get on it, somebody.
Updated Lorry Park topo (as well as Newbridge) on the way soon.

[belperpete]

http://Lorry Park Topo.jpg[/img]]

[JC]

I've posted a basic topo for Lorry Park over at UKC. So you've got no excuses for not going now! 

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1169

[Dolly]

I've never been to any of these places, which are most likely to be dry at the moment ?
Are any of them in the sun ?