[Bonjoy]

Good work! That block was a death trap. Does it alter the end of rinsemeal?
I'll update logbook when I get a chance

[belperpete]

Good work! That block was a death trap. Does it alter the end of rinsemeal?
I'll update logbook when I get a chance

Hi Jon. Yeah the block was completely detached and basically glued to the corner by its' own weight. Would probably have stayed in place for a while yet, but I certainly feel better about going under it.
Nothing's changed on Rinsemeal. The block just caught the edge of the arete lower down, but no probs. Jon Clark said he stuck his left foot on the side of the block while clipping lower-off on Pistol Fingers, but that was only 'cos it was there and will be fine without. Pistol seems much more 'open' at the top now, if you see what I mean.
Jade actually looks like a classic open book corner bridging exercise and will now go right to the top. Not bolted yet, but it will by very soon.
By the way Jon put extra bolts on the traverse of Tatanka in place of the pegs. They've now all gone.

[belperpete]

 :oops:I forgot to say, Crystaline turned out to be much more amenable than I thought and is a lovely little climb at a friendly 6b+/c'ish grade.
There's plenty of 'warm-up' stuff now, but good routes in their own right!

[Jerry Morefat]

Does anyone know if long tor, in particular the boltest is likely to have survived last nights drenching?

cheers

[belperpete]

Does anyone know if long tor, in particular the boltest is likely to have survived last nights drenching?
cheers

Can't say as yet, but prob gonna call in there this afternoon (to bolt Jade, hopefully). Will post details asap.
Also may call in at Turkey Dip to see what that's like. Don't forget the High Tor sport dries out faster than most places too.

[uptown]

Has anyone been up on house of commons butress recently? I remember there being a couple of worthwhile short and bouldery things which would probably benefit from traffic.

[belperpete]

Has anyone been up on house of commons butress recently? I remember there being a couple of worthwhile short and bouldery things which would probably benefit from traffic.

Yeah it's still there and does have some decent climbing on it, roped and bouldering style. If it wasn't so tucked away in the trees it would get visited but as it is???
Can't make up my mind - may well have a serious look, later this year, to see if it's worth the time, effort and money.
Bend Tor's another local crag with some good routes on it and a few extra possibilities.

[belperpete]

Does anyone know if long tor, in particular the boltest is likely to have survived last nights drenching?

cheers

  :dance1:Just got back from Long Tor and all routes from the left up to and includingg Exit Wounds are bone dry. A little dampness in odd patches, but looks like no route holds affected.
Pretty dismal in there, but with this shit weather who cares, at least you can climb! In fact Duncan and Graham turned up as we were leaving and were well chuffed to be getting
some climbing in. High Tor was in the clouds, literally.
Jade has now been bolted!! It's in absolutely top class condition, but we didn't climb it today. It looks like there's 2 starts to it.
The indirect is to climb Rinsemeal (clipping the first 2 bolts of that, then a new bolt in bottom of groove) to get onto and around the arete into the groove. The other direct way is straight up
(via the 2 new bolts below the groove) to the break and then straight into the groove. Will do both ways and let you know, but if anybody gets on it before us, just post the beta.

[belperpete]

  Oh my god! How wet has it been the last 2 days? Pretty crapped out everywhere. Interestingly Long Tor Quarry lasted the first days soaking by Wednesday, but with the continuing rain had crapped out by Thursday morning.
Called in to have a look on way home tonight and it was 50% dry. Doesn't get sun so will take a day or two of dry weather to get on form. High Tor had dried out pretty well (as always) and a team on Main Face, but sport stuff seemed generally dry, with nobody on it as per norm!!

[belperpete]

Conditions update - Been climbing at Turkey Dip during last 2 days. It's survived the wetting well and should continue to do so.
Jon's nearly got one of his hard projects done - a real gymnastic stamina-fest on good holds!
Plenty of High Tor sport OK. Long Tor pretty good, but with the weather crapping out tonight it's gonna suffer!

[JC]

Started some re-bolting work and cleaning at lorry park quarry recently. Today i re-bolted The Squealer (7c) and also cleaned it thoroughly - took about 4 hours!      i must say it is an absolutely awesome route, just as good as the boltest at long tor i think. It's also very long, at least 25m with 10 clips!    Got my psyche on to do all the other routes there soon! Its a sadly neglected place but hopefully we can change that a bit, i think its just as good as Long Tor down the road.   

[Bonjoy]

Nice one, have always fancied doing Squealer!

[belperpete]

 :thumbsup:Been in Lorry Park tonight - more or less bone dry!
Edge of Darkness (6c*) done, Supercrack (7a+/b**) done and Squealer (7c+***) done.
The latter, a particularly fine flash effort by Jon and a real classic battle!!
Can't offer enough superlatives about this route, but all 3 top class. Pictures to be posted soon on UKClimbing.
Trad the cracks if you like (we've got them more or less clean), clip them up, or do both styles (the choice is yours).
Had a visitor in tonight, who was in with Pete Cresswell in '98 and promised to be back soon to enjoy - good on ya! Forgot to ask your name, but get in touch.
More work to follow on other routes - plenty there for everybody. Get in there and enjoy.
We've been using the 'rear entry' approach via John Hadfield House, during the day, but bear in mind they do put the barriers up in the evening,
so use the shitty approach from the entrance nearer M. Bath if staying later.

[dpb]

Jade getting an ascent lsat weekend. 

[belperpete]

Jade getting an ascent lsat weekend. 

 
       Hi Dave. Met a guy from Wirksworth at Lorry Park yesterday, who knew you and he said you'd been at Long Tor last Saturday.
Mentioned that you'd been trying Tatanka, but wet holds causing problems? Didn't say anything about Jade though - well done.
C'mon International man of Mystery, let's hear a bit more about it - which entry to groove, what were the moves like into the groove and so on? Grade?
Bet it's been a long time since it was last done. Are you up for Lorry Park this weekend. Been cleaning/drilling today. You'd wet yourself over Squealer - brilliant line!

[dpb]

Jade was good, from the break we came over with left hand to good hold in the arete, right above that to a crimp right of the arete, left up to an edge on the wall then rocked up with right foot on the good left hand hold to the slopy stuff and into the grove.  Is this how you do it?

Tatanka was wet in the middle, The Boltest was dry which did'nt stop me falling from the top twice, next time.

Hope to be out Sat, Lorry park sounds good but also tempted to go and get the tick on The Boltest.  Let me know what you and Jon are up to.

Good work again!

[belperpete]

     Dave, nice picture actually - why don't you post it on UKClimbing DBase (Lorry Park). I've put a couple of pictures on there tonight.
Listen, we didn't get round to doing Jade 'cos the weather crapped out, but very keen now. What F grade?
Tough luck on Boltest - yeah get it asap. Long Tor/Lorry Park/High Tor so close together, you could have plenty 'on the go', between the three!
Will contact Friday, be nice to get together this weekend.

[belperpete]

Sorry Dave I meant Long Tor for picture

[Bonjoy]

I notice there's a draw on Pistol Fingers. Someone trying it?

[belperpete]

Hadn't spotted that. Had a look in today and still some seepage from the last soaking - not too bad.
Been to Lorry Park again to find some ba***rd had nicked my pruning saw and used it to chop 10m off the end of
a hanging rope I'd left in yesterday. Some guys working on the mess left in the entrance way I think.   
Jon resin bolted Hell's Angels all the way, ready for Sunday hopefully.
He also repeated Squealer Indirect (7b), which starts up Supercrack and traverses across to join Squealer just before the
tough moves to reach the halfway rest. Be useful for anyone not able to do the full Squealer crux section.
Should have Thunder Road bolted for Sunday too.

[dpb]

I notice there's a draw on Pistol Fingers. Someone trying it?

The draw was in from tatanka.  Not been on Pistol fingers yet but its def on the to do list.

[belperpete]

Update on Lorry Park - Thunder Road 6c cleaned, bolted and climbed Sunday - excellent.
Hell's Angels cleaned and climbed. Re-bolting and cleaning going at a pace and new routes on the way.
Absolutely bone dry. Sun in morning, shaded mid-day on with a nice breeze yesterday.
Have a look on http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/craginfo.html?id=1169 for piccies (if you've not seen yet) - more going on soon.
Between High Tor (shade in morning) and Lorry Park (the opposite), climbers could get out the sun all day,
or in the sun all day as conditions dictate. Of course Long Tor/Turkey Dip shaded all day and now in excellent condition.

[JC]

Nice one, have always fancied doing Squealer!

Here's a pic bonjoy to wet the appetite! 
http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/89765.jpg

[Bonjoy]

Nice!

[belperpete]

Nice!

There's even more tasty goodies on offer - best NEW Peak District sport route (only new sport route?) of the year, so far!!
Update - Today, Jon completed his new line between On the Road and Squealer, called Ground Zero at about 9 bolts, 25m+ 7c?? ***.
I looked up this fantastic wall a couple of years ago and was convinced there would be something there.
Recently managed to convince Jon and, with a sustained cleaning/bolting effort, between the two of us and great climbing from Jon, it's now done!
Similar in style to Squealer, with an intricate and crimpy bottom half to the same resting holds and, where Squealer escapes rightwards, a brutal uncompromisingly direct finish.
We've put a double ring lower off at the resting holds, as the bottom half makes for an ace pitch on its' own and well worth doing.
Mix the bottom/top halves of Ground Zero/Squealer and you've got two more top quaiity routes/eliminates - awesome!
More NEW stuff to come (some, but not all as hard!) and cleaning/retro/rebolting going well. Any help offers welcome.
Make me happy by getting in there. You will not go away disappointed  - guaranteed.