[dpb]

Are Plight of the rich and Light and Shade the two 7b/ish things?

Where abouts is the 6c+.  Is this from ground level to the cave?

Looking forward to getting down there and checking these out, lets hope for a some good weather this weekend!

[JC]

Hi mate hope to see you there over the weekend. PotR is the 6c+, and L&S 7a+. I also added a harder start to L&S yesterday at about 7b/+. Really good warm ups for the harder stuff.
The route up to the cave is a doddle, about 5+ or something. A bit dirty at present though, but will clean up nicely. 

[belperpete]

Don't forget, Long Tor in pretty good condition and High Tor perfect. Loads of good sport there.Jon and I are goingto clean and equip a simple approach route to the cave area, to avoid having to do the Skylight approach.

I think I say you on it the other day, how wet did you get?

PS Isn't it a shame you virtually never see anyone on High Tor these days?

We've been up there 3 days running, doing this stuff. Does anybody know anything about the origins of a line Jon bolted and climbed at 7b/+, which is between Light and Shade and Pump out the Squealies. Got 2 pegs in it, but I've drawn a total blank on its' history. It makes an excellent alternative start to Light...With regard to the weather, we've been lucky to miss all the heavy showers that have been around until Wednesday. Got a bit delayed cleaning the new approach route and got pi**ed on walking out. Luckier than some guys who'd just turned up to do a trad route. I think it was the clink of the heavy metal that brought it on!

[Bonjoy]

What time are the sport routes on high tor in shade? Quite fancy a day there at the weekend, but don't wan't to bake if it's hot.

[dpb]

What time are the sport routes on high tor in shade? Quite fancy a day there at the weekend, but don't wan't to bake if it's hot.

They'll be in the shade all morning and the sun all afternoon.

[belperpete]

  Hi Jon, hopefully the weather will settle down for a bit?
With regard to conditions in Summer, I must admit, with the weather being like it has been, we've not had to consider the possibility of being too hot yet!!
However, with crag facing more or less to the West, the sun drifts round the crag from right to left, which means the Cave area and Left Wing stay shaded a bit longer than Main face.
I don't think you'd see sun until early afternoon and it's a bit later when it's 'full on'. By that time, the sun's 'cooled' down a bit (if you see what I mean?) so being too hot shouldn't be a problem.

Also, with it being elevated above the valley floor, the air's more refreshing too, reducing humidity although, interestingly now I think of it, we've never really suffered from strong winds (well, of the meteorological variety) when we've been there during the Winter months.

You know, the more I advertise this place, the more I realise what a f***ing great crag High Tor (the combination of quality sport and trad is unique? - probably not!) and what an interesting menu for climbing there is in the area generally. Get some of your Sheffield mates down here.

I'll be up that way today and will post info on conditions on Long Tor and Squeezing..., Limelight, as there was some seepage down those lines the other day. I think it'll be gone by Saturday though.
There's loads of seepage free stuff, with a good range of grades for most climbers now, on the Tor, surely!

Hope that reassures you and anybody else - don't blame me if it rains though. I'm good, but not that god (that wasn't a typo)!
BTW, those drill bits are much better - get loads more holes out of them. Has Jon told you he rebolted Entree (2 Tier) last week. We'll get onto more down there, how's the Cornice coming on anybody?

Regards, Pete

[belperpete]

What time are the sport routes on high tor in shade? Quite fancy a day there at the weekend, but don't wan't to bake if it's hot.

They'll be in the shade all morning and the sun all afternoon.

Dave, have you checked your email this morning. I sent you some info earlier?

[Bonjoy]

Cheers pete. Will see if I can rustle up a team.
Glad to hear about Entree, quality route. Need to find more people like Jon who are psched to get involved in the bolting. Spoke to Kristian last night. He's made a list of what needs doing re-doing at the cornices. I'll Pm Jon about stuff and then do a PBF update thread.

[belperpete]

Cheers pete. Will see if I can rustle up a team.
Glad to hear about Entree, quality route. Need to find more people like Jon who are psched to get involved in the bolting. Spoke to Kristian last night. He's made a list of what needs doing re-doing at the cornices. I'll Pm Jon about stuff and then do a PBF update thread.

Cool, that'll be really useful. Jon and others like him deserve the support of the sport climbing community. There's plenty of 'consumers' out there, but not that many 'manufacturers', if you get my drift?
Need to start gathering the momentum now!

By the way, have you been following the UKClimbing thread about the Bolt Funds?

I hope we can keep things simple, 'cos I don't believe in politics. Too many vested interests for my liking!!!

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Glad to hear about Entree, quality route. Need to find more people like Jon who are psched to get involved in the bolting. Spoke to Kristian last night. He's made a list of what needs doing re-doing at the cornices. I'll Pm Jon about stuff and then do a PBF update thread.

Cool
      is there a current thread about rebolted routes? or are details on rebolted routes posted anywhere like rockfax or ukc?


cheers
Tim

[belperpete]

  That's what Bonjoy's talking about Tim. We all realise that there IS a need to tie in a developments information point of some sort, covering ongoing developments. I know Bonjoy is looking at that. If you've been following the UKClimbing thread, you'll realise that, unfortunately as always there's more to it than you'd think at first glance! I can see that you are a potential consumer of the exciting new routes and rebolting/retrobolting being done and that's encouraging to hear. I appreciate that all you want is the relevant info for planning your climbing time and to know that, if you turn up to a crag in the area, you can be sure that the routes you want to do WILL be in a proper state. Don't forget, we do like to climb a bit ourselves and all this work takes time, energy and (DON"T FORGET) money from our resources. I guess I'm putting the background to you in order to say "Have you, or your friends got any relevant skills, interests, equipment, time  etc. that you feel able to input to the process?" That may be simply the willingness to spread positiveness and info among your own climbing community, or it may be contacts in commerce and industry, or web skills....anything that will support the job would be useful.
Also, the money in the Bolt Fund pot won't cover more that a fraction of what needs doing, so he bottom line is "Everybody who sport climbs in the Peak District please donate".
Tim and anybody else reading this, please don't take any of this as criticism of those not into the mechanics of the rebolting process. Like climbers, if we had too many actual rebolters there'd be no room to fit em all in on our relatively limited crags!
Regards, Pete

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

dude ive been contributing to the peak bolt fund by direct debit since the bank account was set up.

unfortunately i dont live in the peak and have little time off work which i try to spend climbing. (poor excuse i know) would like to be more active in the bolting arena but think it will be a work/location circumstances change before this occurs.


cheers
Tim

[belperpete]

That's cool Tim and the work/play issue is a perfectly valid one. I wasn't directing the comment about donating at you, or others specifically - it was more of an appeal to the general climbing public! When I next visit the North Wales sport, I'll be more than glad that I'm climbing on their up to date gear, so well done everybody who participates in the overall effort in one way or another.
Hope you do make it to our area soon Tim, weather permitting you'll have a great time!

[Bonjoy]

Good to see you chaps yesterday. Hope Jon got on alright on the proj. I had a tough time on L&S, couldn't reach the juggy break at the start and spent a lot of time trying to boulder this move out, to no avail, then kept slipping off the smear on the move to the good flake. Good route though. Keen to go back when it's less hot and wet.

The bolting was fine, but on PotR I did think an extra one between the first and second would be good. Currently a fall just before the second would land you on the ledge. It felt a touch gnarly with the holds being a bit wet in the back. I thought L&S would be at least 7b+ if you can't reach between the undercuts and the break at the start, it's a hard boulder prob. Didn't this move used to get done off a pile of rocks? Might be worth finding a suitably large flat block and leaving it under the roof for shorties to use, as this move is way harder than the rest of the route and spoils it a bit.

[belperpete]

Yeah, it was nice to see the routes getting some attention. Agree with what you said re extra bolt on Plight... Also, I can't see any alternative way of getting round that start on Light and Shade, although isn't it possible to hang the bolt in order to reach the jugs? Next time we're on those 'warm up routes' we're going to belay from the path at the bottom, although would have to pull the rope through for Plight....
Jon's project is a tough one - got a looong reach from an undercut to a poor pocket to get on the upper wall. Still gotta work out how to set up for that. Could be longer term, but hope not.

[dpb]

Did Plght of the Rich and Light and Shade last night.  Plight of the Rich definately feels a lttle scary going for the 2nd bolt as you (or atleast I did) have your feet quite high and bunched up. 

I pulled on the bolt for Light and Shade while Tim lanked it.

Both good fun!  Wil E next

[JC]

Hey dude, sorry we didn't join you last night. Glad to hear you enjoyed the routes, i will whack another bolt in Potr next time i'm there. To get the full tick on L&S though you've got to find a midgets sequence to boulder out that start 

[belperpete]

Did Plght of the Rich and Light and Shade last night.  Plight of the Rich definately feels a lttle scary going for the 2nd bolt as you (or atleast I did) have your feet quite high and bunched up. 

I pulled on the bolt for Light and Shade while Tim lanked it.

Both good fun!  Wil E next

Dave, Must be that big Ible lunch that Tim had the other day that keeps him growing!! What did you reckon to the quality of climbing? That bit of pocketed wall above he ledge on POTR is great, but I'm interested, how did you do the move off the footledge to the bigger pocket? It's a really long reach from the smaller pocket below OR did you step up and left onto a good foothold and then work right to the pocket? Also, don't you think the climbing on L&S from the double hand jug is just fabulous? Admittedly, it's a bit scrappy just below the lower off, but even that's not bad. I think it's 2*.
Paid a brief visit to Long Tor early evening today. 2 guys down from Sheffield working The Boltest. The crag will soon be bone dry, although Pistol Fingers is just about the only route you would have real dampness problems on (at the top). We'll be back there tomorrow if anybody's interested - it's a brilliant crag for the hot weather, when High Tor would be too hot.

[dpb]

Yeah I found the move off the ledge on PofR quite hard.  After much faffing I used a small right hand crimp and poor left hand layaway, stepped my left foot high and reached over with my right for the higher left hand layaway pocket thing, matched that (felt hard) then reached back right to the good pocket and up to the better holds.  Hope that makes sense.  How do you do it?

LandS is good, really enjoyed the climbing before and up the flake. 2*'s seems fair.  The only thing that spoilt it slightly, as Bonjoy suggested , was having to pull on the bolt to get to the starting hold.  Reckon I'll go back and try bouldering it out at some point when the sun isn't setting.

Cheers for the pics of Pump out the Squealies but I've not been unable to unzip the files, its asking for a password!?  Any idea's?  Reckon I'm probably just being useless.

[belperpete]

Sounds complicated, but I kind of get what you're saying. Jon, as he does quite often, being blessed with a long reach and the finger strength to make good use of it, just latches the 'poor' crimp and goes through to the good pocket. I don't find the footholds that helpful there and struggle. So I'm with you on method, kind of! You'll have to try the 'indirect' start to  L&S (as yet unnamed), coming in from the right. It's solid 7b (+)?, but more in keeping with the rest of the route. We always said it was a better start to the route, in that it misses out that really hard 'boulder problem' take-off. Pity it joins the route above most of the 7a+ climbing bit. Incidentally, I think (although we haven't had a look) that this start would link into Pump... giving a slightly easier alternative to the crux start to that route? Great climbing on all the routes though. How was the seepage drying on Squeezing... and Limelight? I'd think it would be not far off dry??

[belperpete]

Hi Pete, I agree with you that Lorry Park could do with a makeover but I'm not sure that should include retro bolting the crack lines. Their probably unclimable in there current condition in fact I think theres a rather large bush growing in one crack line. Last time I paid a visit got molested by some travellers dogs, I reckon your best approaching from the DCC car park round the back of John Hadfield House instead of running the gauntlet.
Ian was keen to do the cracks a few years back (trad of course) not sure if he got round to it due to their state.
Is bend tor on your adgenda as well ?

All the best MarkL

Mark, I think I'm going to 'go for it' soon, as word has it that the Lee brothers are quite happy with the proposition and, let's face it, the routes stand a lot more chance of getting done as cleaned, more often climbed sport routes. For the benefit of the vast majority of modern day climbers (and there re plenty of dedicated trad enthusiasts who make use of and enjoy the alternatives, as vice versa!) isn't that potential better than their prospect as trad routes? I'm flagging this up, as I do respect the interest you've got in the place. I think I've still got your number and will try to contact soon. Regards, Pete

[abarro81]

Paid a brief visit to Long Tor early evening today. 2 guys down from Sheffield working The Boltest.

Not just working... we both just managed the redpoint before dark (with Reeve's ascent being not far from in the dark) Wicked route, definitely a fair bit easier for those of us blessed with lank. Good to meet you, even if we didn't connect the person to the ukb persona.

[Houdini]

Damn!

I wish I could contribute to this thread; I was born in Belper.  Is there any slate here? 

[belperpete]

Not just working... we both just managed the redpoint before dark (with Reeve's ascent being not far from in the dark) Wicked route, definitely a fair bit easier for those of us blessed with lank. Good to meet you, even if we didn't connect the person to the ukb persona. Likewise, I'd seen your earlier posts on this thread, so didn't know you were following up your interest. Aaah - the power of advertising!! If you want any more info on the area, just post it up. See you both around.

Awesome stuff - glad you got it. Makes the visit extra worthwhile. Thanks to Bonjoy for the work he put into the crag to kick-start the re-development. He knows a good crag when he sees it! I'd seen your posts previously, so it's good that you followed up your interest in the area. Aaaah - the power of advertising! We're just keen to the area recognised on the sport scene, for the quality routes around. See you around.

[belperpete]

Damn!

I wish I could contribute to this thread; I was born in Belper.  Is there any slate here? 

Hiya. Any chance you went to school here - if so, we've met! There is loads of slate in the area, as you well  know from having lived here. Trouble is it's all on house roofs (ha ha!). Seriously, strangely enough the climbing on Long Tor IS very much like steep slate - small, flat but positive fingerholds. Long time since I've climbed in the Llanberis quarries, but we're both keen to get back there. Pardon my ignorance, but have you been involved in the re-developments in North Wales? Don't :lol:if that's an understatement.