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Modifying V10's (Read 11457 times)

Monolith

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Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 12:23:10 pm
Ok, here's the score. I have a repeat prescription pair of V10's (the last pair of 10.5's from the shop). This time round, without resorting to plastic bags, I wondered if it might be possible to modify the toe patches so as there is a greater degree of flexibility on the inner of the shoe? The last pair made the skin on some of my joints bleed and I'm keen to avoid this happening again and don't particularly want to have to tape my feet up whilst the shoes are being broken in. The flipside is that I value the toe patches and don't want to completely lose them.

Yours, a lonely V10 user.


Paul B

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#1 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 12:50:13 pm
a crazy bloke once told me he used to put his pinks in a plastic carrier bag and take a hammer to them to break them in... :shrug:

alternatively i'd kiss the toe patches good bye. You can't have it all, or maybe you could pull them off then replace it with whatever doyle has on his cave boots as those don't look like standard issue.

slackline

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#2 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 12:57:46 pm
I thought this was going to be about chipping  :lol:

Nibile

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#3 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 01:08:54 pm
1 st) thou shalt not modify brand new climbing shoes.

namnok

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#4 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 01:18:06 pm
for mine i've had to modify the toe patch.

1 i carefully cut the patch off with a scalple, leaving a thin wavey layer of rubber which resembles a beach at low tide

the other i realised that i could get enough finger space and ripped the whole patch off thankfully not tearing the scacred yellow upper

it was too late to do the other shoe to the same standard so i have been climbing with "odd" shoes ever since....bring back the v10s!!

Paul B

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#5 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 01:52:20 pm
Dobbin has a good way of safely removing the toe patch, I think he just carefully pulled at the pointy end of the rubber patch then used some needle nosed pliers to finish the job, peeling the rubber back on itself.

Quote from: Dobbin


Monolith

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#6 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 02:10:22 pm
I didn't the know the great Dobbin was in Danish electrobilly band The Cartoons :-\



Cheers for that shout Paul.

Paul B

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#7 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 02:23:57 pm
I shudder to think i'm going to say  :spank:  this but you could try a pair of Jet 7's instead, sized a lot smaller than that though.

Monolith

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#8 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 02:27:30 pm
A friend bought some the other week from the Foundry shop but they only had sizes upto 8 at the time. I'd be keen to try a pair on at some point but will work around these for now.

Paul B

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#9 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 02:29:05 pm
You won't need any bigger than a size 8...trust me. I take 7.5 in 5.10 usually and the 7.5's are boats on me and this isn't variable sizing, Ned found the same  and so did Muscles as well I believe.

Monolith

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#10 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 04:04:33 pm
Sounds like a sort of shoe sandbagging. I'll be amazed if size 11 feet fit into a size 8 shoe but it sounds like they may do  :o


Houdini

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#11 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 04:10:25 pm
Just buy Dragons.  They're a better boot.  Boots are too expensive to savage.

cowboyhat

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#12 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 04:49:08 pm
I think you're being too hasty modifying second-gen V10's. Or am I the only one who likes them?

One of my all time hardest rock climbs used a marginal toe hook for which the V10's were absolutely perfect.

GCW

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#13 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 04:55:49 pm
One of my all time hardest rock climbs used a marginal toe hook for which the V10's were absolutely perfect.

Demon Wall Roof?   :P

Stubbs

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#14 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:00:38 pm
Or am I the only one who likes them?


I think they're great - i love the fact that the extra rubber on the top keeps your toes in a very aggressive downturned position and they've kept their rigidity. My dragons have gone quite floppy in the toes after about half as much use as my v10's and i think this is down to the structural element the extra rubber provides.

Oh yeah they're pretty much like cheating for toe hooking compared to any other boots I've used.

cowboyhat

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#15 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:09:31 pm
Or am I the only one who likes them?


I think they're great - i love the fact that the extra rubber on the top keeps your toes in a very aggressive downturned position and they've kept their rigidity. My dragons have gone quite floppy in the toes after about half as much use as my v10's and i think this is down to the structural element the extra rubber provides.

Oh yeah they're pretty much like cheating for toe hooking compared to any other boots I've used.

Exactly.

One of my all time hardest rock climbs used a marginal toe hook for which the V10's were absolutely perfect.

Demon Wall Roof?   :P

I don't know what that is, though I'm sure they'll be adequate for your 'Demon Roof'. Its ok, I'll get the trumpet out; Franks Wild Years at Cresciano. Uncle also did it using v10's I believe...

robertostallioni

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#16 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:15:58 pm
Crosshatching with a razor blade worked well on a mates green mad rock rubber uppers. This was done with the intention of increasing the size a little. It worked, so beware if your 2nd Gen V10's are perfect fit.

Monolith

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#17 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:18:26 pm
In principal, I love the patch but just wish it was marginally thinner. It seems to be the joint between the patch and the toe area where the greatest amount of discomfort seems to be encountered.

I stand by them, have signed the petition in the past and they are without doubt my favourite rock shoe around. Sandwich bags or a mod it'll have to be.

unclesomebody

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#18 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:22:13 pm
the best thing you can do is get it against a belt sander or something like that. Just shave it down from being uber thick to just a couple of mm. That way you don't get your toes crushed and you still have rubber to cheat with.

I say bring back the old V10. What a boot. I still have my one sending pair... which just got used!

Paul B

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#19 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:34:43 pm
Do people like that term "Sending"? I f*cking hate it.

Anyone who hasn't should sign the e-petition to save the v10.

Jim

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#20 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:47:32 pm
whats your preference then, crushing?

Paul B

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#21 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:49:22 pm
whats your preference then, crushing?

At least thats a little less American...

cowboyhat

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#22 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 05:59:12 pm
Do people like that term "Sending"? I f*cking hate it.

Up pipes Samuel Johnson. What is cool with the kids these days then youth?

Houdini

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#23 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 06:02:34 pm
I'm fond of the verb, to climb.

Equally hateful things are people shouting ALLEZ!  Or GO ON!  GO ON!  Or 'Ave it!






cowboyhat

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#24 Re: Modifying V10's
April 09, 2008, 06:04:01 pm
Yes! I fucking climbed it!

 

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