[slackline]

Futures Barbares is ok if you can crimp. The moves aren't very powerful but the footholds are poor. Cooler temps prefered. Amazing problem though. Probably the best hard problem at 95.2 IMO

That's Jasper screwed then 

[Jaspersharpe]

I have been known to favour the crimp it's true.........

We went on the penultimate day of our trip when I was resting to try to recover for Rubis on the last day. Just did a load of easy stuff but it was all really good. L'Ange Naif looks good but as you say nobody seems to think it's anywhere near 7C!

[dave]

ange naif is 7b unless we're bubbling crack or using the defunt dyno method. good problem though, shame that crimp can ruin skin post-haste.

[TomP]

It depends on what you use. The direct method is tricky and used to get 7c+. That was over graded but 7c is probably fair. If you use the huge hole out left for your foot it's about 7b. I reckon the dircet way is better personally

[r-man]

I just realised - that's Dai's new 8C innit. Karamu.

[neil h]

It depends on what you use. The direct method is tricky and used to get 7c+. That was over graded but 7c is probably fair. If you use the huge hole out left for your foot it's about 7b. I reckon the dircet way is better personally

I agree there, I think direct might be soft touch 7c as well

Did you tick Futures Barbares, I have been trying the direct without the left crimp.

[TomP]

I did Futures Barbares about 6 or 7 years ago in less heat but it was so hot and painful this trip. Me and my mate tried the dyno that trip too and could quite easily get to the jug but it was more difficult to hold than we thought. I thought the dyno was 8a but looking recently, it gets 7c - the crimp method is supposed to be harder

[r-man]

http://isaaccaldiero.blogspot.com/2009/04/flash-back.html

Pictured below is one of the most impressive lines in Joe's, definitely a project for the future, but not too far into the future.
It consists of about ten, V11 to V12 MOVES in a row, talk about power endurance.

Jon Cardwell and Andre Defelice...were extremely psyched to toss their carcasses towards an old time classic Black Lung V13. Having perfect temps, streamline beta and high motivation, I thought for sure the lung would indeed get another slap down from the young energetic crew, after all was said n done, the Lung won...Props to the legend Ben Moon,

[SA Chris]

Thanks r-man that's one of the minor mysteries of life solved - that bloke with the hair turned up at Area 51  when we were there and got straight on Resident Evil (V10) as a "warmup", and then was doing most of Black Lung without much effort.

[Jaspersharpe]

Jon Cardwell and Andre Defelice...were extremely psyched to toss their carcasses towards an old time classic Black Lung V13. Having perfect temps, streamline beta and high motivation, I thought for sure the lung would indeed get another slap down from the young energetic crew, after all was said n done, the Lung won...Props to the legend Ben Moon,

That's interesting. These are the chaps with the 8B+ Rubicon warm up traverse........ 

Incidentally, if you type "The Saddhu bouldering" into google images, about ten pictures in you get some shots of lagers. Shome mishtake shurely? They must think I meant "The Saddo bouldering" no?

[benpritch]

Thanks r-man that's one of the minor mysteries of life solved - that bloke with the hair turned up at Area 51  when we were there and got straight on Resident Evil (V10) as a "warmup", and then was doing most of Black Lung without much effort.

i think that is isaac caldiero.

[richieb]

A couple from up north...Highballing on the terraces above the Torridon boulders.

Dan on one of the new problems next to the ship boulder

[andy_e]

Pictures of Torridon make me wet. I think a visit might be on the cards this summer.

[SA Chris]

Choose a sunny breezy day if it is summer, it can be midgie hell. Or wait until good conditions in autumn.

[lagerstarfish]

Incidentally, if you type "The Saddhu bouldering" into google images, about ten pictures in you get some shots of lagers. Shome mishtake shurely? They must think I meant "The Saddo bouldering" no?

It is actually because the images of me in The Forest are linked to a video called "Elephants mating deep in the forest...".

Yes, really.

PS
this explains nothing

[Jaspersharpe]

Saddo. 

[r-man]

La Tortuga/ 7C /Tenerife / Impresive Line and Landscape near of the Vulcan "Teide"

[neil h]

were did youget the info on that problem r-man

I did this problem about 8 years ago, truely amazing setting, I have some photos but not quality as it was the days before digital

[GCW]

I tried to get this in a Lincoln Stylee, but I'm afraid I overexposed it terribly

[r-man]

were did youget the info on that problem r-man

I did this problem about 8 years ago, truely amazing setting, I have some photos but not quality as it was the days before digital

Just a pic from 8a.nu. Here's another pic from someone's flickr page:



http://www.flickr.com/photos/omarcaballero/

[Adam Lincoln]

I tried to get this in a Lincoln Stylee, but I'm afraid I overexposed it terribly

If you weren't an injured man.... 

[Fiend]

To be honest the impenetrable darkness is not the most obvious thing that's horribly wrong with that photo...

[cofe]

Mysko linje, Bohuslän

[GCW]

To be honest the impenetrable darkness is not the most obvious thing that's horribly wrong with that photo...

What, you wanted Nik to take his shirt off?

[SA Chris]

Mysko linje, Bohuslän

That bloke in the yellow t shirt has no legs.