[Drew]

Go on then. Where does everyone finish? I can get from the big break, to the smaller break, to the top break (pretty shit, but I can match it), but then I tried to traverse that break out right to the crack (guidebook says to escape, and I didn't really feel like going any higher!). Unfortunately that break was so slopey I couldn't trust it to get all the way to the crack. Quite glad I didn't as my mate did the 6a+ on the arete to the right, and as he was traversing off that, he decided to jump off instead of trying to traverse all the way. He fell of and broke his ankle!

[Andy B]

From the second of the two poor breaks/slopey seams reach up and left into a juggy fluting (can feel quite commiting). Once established on the fluting you can climb up into the wide broken breaks beneath the final overlap, and scramble easily, but carefully rightwards on to ledges and easy ground.

Hope this is of help.

[Drew]

Yeah, I looked at that from inside the big 3-foot break, but didn't feel massively comfortable committing to it. Next time, next time.

[Fiend]

Stick some cams in the breaks below the top bulge and go over the top!

[JohnM]

Sounds like your just being a bit of a pussy to me Drew  Who broke their ankle!?

[Drew]

Matt. He is going to have to postpone his flight to Manilla now! Gutted!

[205Chris]

Stick some cams in the breaks below the top bulge and go over the top!

Defintely worth the experience to top it out, I took a rope for it as well having done the boulder problem to the break a few weeks before.

[Drew]

What's the top out like? Are there actually any holds up there? I didn't even bother looking. It is just a gritstone grovel?

[Fiend]

What's the top out like? Are there actually any holds up there? I didn't even bother looking. It is just a gritstone grovel?

It is a grovel / mantel.

I had a look at it soloing (no pads) and decided against it - was a bit damp.

I went back later with gear and decided against it again - too cowardly!!

I'd say the problem is significantly better than the whole route.

[JohnM]

No way Matt!?  I can't believe you let him ruin himself on his leaving do weekend!  Was this a combined plot between you and Steve to keep him the country?  Everyone saw you pull the mat away Drew 

[Jaspersharpe]

Class problem. Much easier in good conditions.

[fatdoc]

Class problem. Much easier in good conditions.

bloody hell you're tall!!

missed out about half the moves!!!

[Jaspersharpe]

He's not particularly tall. I'm 6ft, did it exactly the same way and wasn't at full stretch. Mind you, compared to you both Lagers and I are giants so I can see your point. 

[dave]

thats the same way that everyone i've ever seen do it does it.

[fatdoc]

thats the same way that everyone i've ever seen do it does it.

under cut move to get to break, right foot up before left to desperate reach (crux) for bottom of flute or bit of a looong bounce to good bit of flute.

awesome little micr route / problem...

[lagerstarfish]

bloody hell you're tall!!

missed out about half the moves!!!

That's with me doing it the shorter persons way. I can reach the top ledge (sloper about 20-30cm R of the fluting) with my feet still on the starting break (on tiptoes mind). Shorties can reach that sloper easily (then match and then reach L of the fluting) with their L foot where I put mine in the vid at 0.35 - Dave Simmonite (not tall) did it this way in his trainers  

[lagerstarfish]

before left to desperate reach (crux) for bottom of flute

I'd never thought to try using the bottom of the flute. I'll try that next time. Isn't 'tinterweb great?

I ought to add that it is my favourite 6 in The Peak.

Another Non-Qual Vid

[fatdoc]

bloody hell you're tall!!

missed out about half the moves!!!

That's with me doing it the shorter persons way. I can reach the top ledge (sloper about 20-30cm R of the fluting) with my feet still on the starting break (on tiptoes mind). Shorties can reach that sloper easily (then match and then reach L of the fluting) with their L foot where I put mine in the vid at 0.35 - Dave Simmonite (not tall) did it this way in his trainers  

Nice one!!!

[lagerstarfish]

I say "trainers", but I think they might have been 5.10 approach shoes. It was earlier in the same session that he made his first ever ascent of the problem (proper footwear and chalkbag) and was well chuffed to get up it - so its not like he had it overly wired or anything. He was a happy little man that day. Good stuff to watch.