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7B problem on the Andle stone (Read 2578 times)

peterbull

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7B problem on the Andle stone
March 29, 2008, 03:48:46 pm
Any beta for the top would be gratefully received. LH is on good crimp near the arete, RH on the obvious shallow pocket/layaway, RF on good flat edge, LF still in good break. I'm weak and talentless so throwing for the top, slapping it three times on the trot before splitting my tip.  :-\

cofe

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#1 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 30, 2008, 06:51:10 pm
rock over to stand straight-legged, in balance on your right foot. i may have also put left foot on something at this point. i wouldn't have thought chucking for the top would work unless you're 7ft tall. it's quite knacky and frustrating but persevere.

Jim

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#2 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 30, 2008, 06:56:15 pm
peterbull has a long reach.
Its quite balancy from here on in if you don't want to perservere with the throwng method, left foot smear and pull on that shit sidepocket thing to get stood up straight and bring LH above to a sort of slopey pocket and then match or straight to the top. I've seen dense and Kim do it by throwing or the top

Andy B

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#3 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 30, 2008, 07:19:59 pm
As I remember it is worth climbing up the ladders and checking out where the best bits are on top in advance.
Especially if you're planning on throwing.

dave

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#4 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 30, 2008, 09:41:37 pm
putting the left foot on doesn't work for me, i found the key was boning the fuck out of the poor sidepull, standing tall on the right foot and just reaching up as slowly as you can. the top would be bad to hold on a slap, but for a semi-controled pop its ok. like banks says, have a recce.

peterbull

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#5 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 31, 2008, 04:46:47 am
Cheers Gents, will have a look at the static method but am guessing due to my lack of talent will end up slapping again. Didn't have a spotter either so didn't quite commit to the top move. I seem to remember Worm doing it with a jump and he's a short arse. Maybe there's hope for me yet!

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 31, 2008, 06:18:41 pm
I generally pop for the top unless conditions are superb/ I'm on fire.

It is possible very static for shorties like this:


However, I wouldn't recommend this unless your surname is wibble.

Houdini

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#7 Re: 7B problem on the Andle stone
March 31, 2008, 07:09:07 pm
Toe-dally fahaggin' kung-fu styleeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

 

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