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Dabbing (Read 4749 times)

The Sausage

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Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 04:36:24 pm
Every so often, I thin this needs bringing up, just to make things clear... you see it increasingly often - on videos and photos and at the crag. I worry that new climbers coming through will think it's acceptable, that there is somehow a 'reasonable' amount of dabbing allowed.

There aren't many rules in climbing, but here's one:

If a part of your body/clothing/hair/chalkbag touches anything that isn't a part of what you're climbing (spotter/pad/floor/vegetation/other rocks...) then you have dabbed and to carry on and claim the problem is as bad as if you'd fluffed the last move. Even the lightest touch that apparently made no difference voids an ascent. Even in Yorkshire. John Sherman wrote that if his shoelace brushed a leaf he wouldn't count it as an ascent. And if it's good enough for Verm, it's good enough for the rest of us.

Thanks.

GCW

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#1 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 04:44:01 pm
Chris Webb is gonna be pissed that he can't count his tick:    :lol:

And this sort of thing is definitely a no no:


Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 04:45:24 pm



  :o ;)  ;D
Right, me and my bowsaw are going back for the FA as soon as I get back from Buoux

Stubbs

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#3 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 04:48:09 pm
Holy shit - live by the sword and die by it - slap sausage odyssey is no more!

Did I dab yesterday?  I'm worried now... being from Yorkshire it comes so naturally, I forgot to change my habits for my peak visit.

Doylo

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#4 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 04:48:24 pm
did that branch go up his arse as he topped out? Lucky bastard if so.

Serpico

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#5 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 04:59:24 pm


The old 'Evil Dead Power Spot'; find a demonically possessed tree to push you through a hard move.
We've all done it.

Kingy

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#6 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 05:43:17 pm
Poor old Moony must discredit his Ben's Extension effort in One Summer when his foot brushes through the reeds below the shelf  :lol:

Kingy

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#7 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 05:49:50 pm
And all those who have used a strategically placed chalk bucket on the ground midway thru a traverse, its time to get that erasor out... :whistle:

The Sausage

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#8 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 06:35:13 pm
You bastards! first ascent still up for grabs then.

The Sausage

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#9 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 06:38:17 pm
...JB, was that the go I did it? I can't believe I was so blinded by ambition that I would have been happy with that. If so, I'm very, very disapponted with myself. Scrub my name from the record books...

Eddies

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#10 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 06:49:20 pm
And all those who have used a strategically placed chalk bucket on the ground midway thru a traverse, its time to get that erasor out... :whistle:



App pap pap!   :spank:

nathan wind

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#11 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 07:46:41 pm




nice looking prob.. where / what is it?

The Sausage

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#12 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 09:00:17 pm
it used to be called slap bass odyssey, at robin hood's stride - on the same block as Boysen's crack (you'll have done it, i'm sure), but I will happily renounce the ascent if Jonboy can remember if those pics were taken on the 1st ascent. I think it's right good. I think Johnny Brown and Somebody's Fool went and tried it/did it a few weeks ago.

To be fair, it was Jonboy's problem, I just happened to lank through the crux between showers.

...actually, i put in my original thread that touching anything that isn't the problem constitutes a dab... negotiating unhelpful vegetation is part of charm of some problems, including this one. I think. (is there a smiley for 'desperately clinging to last strands of dignity'?)

Bonjoy

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#13 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 11:35:58 pm
It was the FA I think. To be fair I think it's nigh on impossible to do without the tree dab, so unless someone else has lopped the branch I should think it hasn't had a 'clean' ascent, in the strictest le sausage defined sense of the word. Like you say in this case it's part of the charm of the problem. I remember discussing branch removal with you at the time but you poo-pooed the idea on aesthetic/ethical grounds.

GCW

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#14 Re: Dabbing
March 28, 2008, 11:40:04 pm
Tree dab is a clear cheat.
Farting to give lift is to be frowned uopn (yeah, Houd).
Can I claim an ascent with a prevailing wind?

Somebody's Fool

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#15 Re: Dabbing
March 29, 2008, 02:47:21 pm
I've sent Grimer my finished Royal Horticultural Society script this week.  And don't fret Sausage, your name is still in it.

Slap Bass Odyssey  V8 (6c)
A gem of a problem, one of the Peak's best. Dreary, reach-dependent climbing livened up by a charming wrestle with the neighbouring tree.

FDA Joe Le Sage 2007

...Or words to that effect. 


The Sausage

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#16 Re: Dabbing
March 30, 2008, 08:08:33 pm
That's what I'm talking about!

jed

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#17 Re: Dabbing
March 31, 2008, 11:57:22 am
That initial video is a shocker.

Chris Webb et al you should be ashamed of yourself :-[

 

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