[GCW]

Got a Christening to attend in May and I'll have one spare day whilst down in Dorset.
I've had a bit of a google about.  Seen the Rockfax Miniguide for The Cuttings, and heard of Neddyfields, Blacknor, and Agglestone.

Anyhows, I'm looking for any recommendations as to bouldering venues near(ish) to Poole to have a play at.  Grades up to about 7b, being a fat punter.  Topos are obviously an advantage.

C'mon, you lot- hit me with the gen.  Cheers in advance.

[andy_e]

Got a Christening to attend in May and I'll have one spare day whilst down in Dorset.
I've had a bit of a google about.  Seen the Rockfax Miniguide for The Cuttings, and heard of Neddyfields, Blacknor, and Agglestone.

Anyhows, I'm looking for any recommendations as to bouldering venues near(ish) to Poole to have a play at.  Grades up to about 6b, being a fat punter.  Topos are obviously an advantage.

C'mon, you lot- hit me with the gen.  Cheers in advance.

[Duma]

Drive to Dartmoor - bonehill/saddle tor are only about 2 1/2 hours away.

The aggle stone has some nice eliminates on it, Neddyfields a couple of problems worth doing, ditto the cuttings (+ boulderfield)

Seriously, I'd drive to Dartmoor.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

May? The DWS will be coming into season, get a shorty wetty and get yerself down to Swanage.

[Paz]

If you're not going to go trad climbing down the Ruckle I'll give it you straight: 

It's all shit.  I'd get wasted in The Square and Compass the night before, then have a full breakfast, a cream tea and a walk round Swanage, the cliffs or Corfe Castle. 

There are some (less than 5) problems down the bottom of the promenade but thinking about it there's a mile walk in and an abseil only to find they're greasy.  Stuff also at Dancing Ledge.  You must have found the guide by now... ?

[GCW]

Which guide?  I have the Swanage/Portland guide from years ago, is there a dedicated bouldering guide too?
Duma- 2 1/2 hours is probably a bit far, but cheers for the suggestion.
Paz- thanks for you honesty.  I'll strongly consider that option.
Andi_e- I didn't get your opint?  Did you mean to reply or just quote me for fun?   

[Jaspersharpe]

Andi_e- I didn't get your opint?  Did you mean to reply or just quote me for fun?   

Is that an Irish pint?

[SA Chris]

If I was you I'd hark to the Paz. Go for a walk and play on the Agglestone for a few minutes, or take a wander down to Dancing Ledge and dick about there. go for a walk with some bouldering on the way rather than seek it out. Then go chill on a beach. Or get the ferry out to Brownsea Island for a walk and some nice beaches.

[GCW]

Is that an Irish pint?

No, just a typo
Brownsea Island may be an option with the sprogs.  Although I think it's the BH weeken and everything might be busy.
I looked at the Agglestone pics on UKC, it ain't hugely inspirational.  Is it better in real life?

Found Dorset-climbing.net too, is it up to date?

[SA Chris]

I wouldn't actively seek it out, but I was in a similar situation to you (my gran lives in Parkstone) and found it a useful diversion for a couple of hours; nice walk and something to play on. Avoid using the Sandbanks Ferry on a Bank Holiday if you can, the queue is horrific. Bear in mind the roads around those parts are very slow and can be a nightmare on a BH weekend. I don't reacall the Brownsea Island Ferry ever geting that busy, but it's 18 years since I last went on it.

[Jaspersharpe]

Is The Cuttings really shit then?

[SA Chris]

If my geography is correct, aren't the Cuttings etc on Portland? It's at least an hour plus to get to Weymouth from Poole, maybe more on a BH weekend (depending whereabouts in Poole). I have never bouldered on Portland, only clipped bolts.

As mentioned above, Lulworth and Stair Hole might be a good option if you fancy a bit of DWS and can get hold of a shorty (might still be a bit chilly in the water in May). Nice beach, pub, walking, snorkelling etc.

[GCW]

I may be up for a trundle to The Cuttings if they are OK.  I'll try to get more info on the place (preferably without forking out £3.50 to the Empire of Ryan).

[Dr T]

Is The Cuttings really shit then?

personally I really like the place....
some of the stuff is really quite highball (i.e. in the cuttings itself) and the stuff on the boulderfield is difficult to access at times due to the nasty spikyness but the problems are certainly good
the grades are pretty accurate, a couple of real softies like Neil Armstrong, but otherwise I think they match up with everywhere else

I may be up for a trundle to The Cuttings if they are OK.  I'll try to get more info on the place (preferably without forking out £3.50 to the Empire of Ryan).

might be wrong but I I thought the proceeds from the mini-guide went to the portland bolt fund...

also check Ryan's website there's problems listed that aren't in the guide - hot ride for example is very very good

there's a few video's of portland bouldering on my web-site (the wife wrote it, she's the brains) nothing above V7 but then I'm not  big time wad really - see what you think - www.climbing-cats.co.uk go to the video page...

[GCW]

might be wrong but I I thought the proceeds from the mini-guide went to the portland bolt fund...

also check Ryan's website there's problems listed that aren't in the guide - hot ride for example is very very good

Had a look here but I can't see anywhere that says the £3.50 goes to a bolt fund.  I still suspect it goes into Mr Ryan's pocket?  I'd buy it instantly if it went into a bolt fund.

Cheers for the link Dr T, I'll have a look later.

[GCW]

Grades up to about 6b, being a fat punter.  Topos are obviously an advantage.

Just got it Andi.  If you'd put it in bold it may have been better   _Dick

[tubbs]

Try http://www.dorset-climbing.com/ - it has a short topo on the bouldering near Lulworth Cove. You'll be needing a mat or two though.

The Agglestone is worthwhile, and the kids will enjoy the walk and views (mine do). Lots of good-ish stuff up to 7b with sandy landings.

There's a long, pumpy traverse on the lower ledge at Dancing Ledge - you can't miss it.

The Cuttings is a bit of a drive from Poole (1.5 hrs), and May isn't the best time to be there as it's limestone. However, if it's an overcast day, it's worth it. Better for the kids is Hidden Cove near Portland Bill. The kids can hunt for crabs while you boulder a few metres away.

Drop me a PM before you come down and I might be able to get out and show you around any of these venues.

[Dr T]

The Agglestone is worthwhile,

is there a topo anywhere????

[GCW]

is there a topo anywhere????

I'd like to know that too.  I had a look about but didn't find one.

Tubbs, thanks for your info and offer.

EDIT:  A little more effort and boom a topo!!