[old cheese]

9 days to go, need some help. I am going with Worm and Dan Bradley and need some advice on problems in the 7a and above category, up to about 8a (for the bradley) which are quality. Easy for the grade problems will also be concidered (sorry JB but i am getting old and need the psycological boost at the moment )

I only have the bloc art book at the mo but will be purchasing the definative guide when i am there so if i can find them in bloc art great but any other problems will need to be explained carefully as my mind is not what it once was also. Some easy problems for the Worm would also be good 

[Doylo]

Easy for the grade problems will also be concidered

well it is chironico 

Get the definitive guide for sure, it is a substantial piece of work and very good.
The following recommendations are in real grades (some stuff in chironico is a bit soft).

as i said in this thread:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8516.0.html

Willenbug Dach 8a- 8a with jugs on , cool
No Mystery 7c+
Serre Moi Fort - Great problem, do the stand up if you can't do the sitter 7a+/b ish

These problems are well worth doing, if you can do No mystery you should have a crack on the easiest 8b in the world Schule de lebens 8a in real money, as they share the same first tricky move. Really aesthetic problems anyway in the Deliverance sector. The old classic vitruvian man is very good at 7c. Komilator is a cool 8a (would be more specific about areas but don't have the guide to hand i'm afraid). Dr Med dent 7a+, power strips 7c (by from dirt grows the flowers) and Klique Klaque 7b+ are all cool. Le pilier 7c+, bit weird at the start but good moves. Seriously there is so much to go at. If Mr Bradley gets up an 8a point him at Great Shark Hunt next, thought to be 8a+ by Liam Desroy, ben Moon and danny cattell. Flashed by James  . Really cool problem. Isn't it about time someone suggested Tomohawk (jim?)

[Jim]

I think you mean saltbeef for the tomohawk recomendation (its a really good line, just watch your ankles). Dr med dent is a really good 7b and well worth doing

[monkey boy]

Other top problems:
Made in Norway-7b at the shark hunt area
Monolith-7b+ at monolith area
Arete with a pocket-8a in the same area as electric ant (8b) get dan on this be good for his steely fingers
Plenty more to, like Doyle says buy the guide from tourist info in Belinzona and you'll be cooking!

Enjoy!

[Jim]

another vote for monolith here. quality problem

[old cheese]

Nice, cheers for those. Some of them are in the bloc heart book and look good.

Saw Dan tonight and he is keen to be our beta monkey. Also keen to try some 8a's as he missed in font last week despite nearly latching hard move on Fata morgana in shit conditions.

i can't wait  its gonna be great, just have the issue of 4 days narrowboating in North Wales to placate the missus first   

[Sloper]

OC I've got my 40th birthday coming up and would appreciate some tips on climbing when one's over the big 40, as someone with several years experience, what would you advise?

Enjoy the narrow boating, think of it as a chance to wear your special slippers.

[webbo]

OC I've got my 40th birthday coming up and would appreciate some tips on climbing when one's over the big 40, as someone with several years experience, what would you advise?

i would advise that you retire for several years then make a come back.you will have more excuses when you are able to say" i'm in my late 40,s i'll have you know"

[Jaspersharpe]

i would advise that you retire for several years over a decade then make a come back.you will have more excuses when you are able to say" i'm in my late 40,s mid 30's i'll have you know"

 

[old cheese]

OC I've got my 40th birthday coming up and would appreciate some tips on climbing when one's over the big 40, as someone with several years experience, what would you advise?

Oi cheeky sloper, i am only 38. By my rudimentary maths that makes me more youthful than you. I just look wisened because of alcohol and/or substance abuse in my former years. 

Also, we gonna be at cresciano too so ticks for that area helpful too

[old cheese]

Right! come on you selfish bastards. I am back from my narrowboating holiday and i need more ticks. This time for cresciano. I am off in 3 days so you had better be quick