[cowboyhat]

Westworld. Why is the original method down to 7c+? Don't see to many people lapping it, you done it yourself Jon?

Tried it the other day, still nails.

[T_B]

Visited eatswood for the first time yesterday. Nice spot. What was the story with the rope/boots Bonjoy? A sharp exit 

Anyhoos, that stand up undercut bounce into l-hand crimp thing then crack (hats for ?) seemed nails for 7b.

Didn't link the trav, but one of our team did and overall Font 7c felt pretty generous with good heels, knee bars and no small holds.

[r-man]

Hats for Clowns - it's a French start. One hand on the undercut, jump off the ground for the crimp. Gets 7a+ in the list. Standing start is much harder.

[T_B]

Hats for Clowns - it's a French start. One hand on the undercut, jump off the ground for the crimp. Gets 7a+ in the list. Standing start is much harder.

7a+! 

[Paul B]

I agree on the traverse, I did it a few weeks ago extremely quickly despite having to circumnavigate some of the latter holds as they were soaked. It felt like an utter gift at 7c.

The standup to HFC is a bit of a non problem, non? the real problem starts sitting on the crimp with the obvious broken bit? I was speaking to Ned about this and they'd been trying it the rockover crimpy way (you'll see the holds if you go), by using a heel toe lock in the jugs out left to reach from the broken edge to the nasty little holds, releasing it and rocking over to glory/failure.

[r-man]

Hats for Clowns - it's a French start. One hand on the undercut, jump off the ground for the crimp. Gets 7a+ in the list. Standing start is much harder.

7a+! 

Vaguely remember you can get a toe hook which makes the crux so much easier. (though I always found catching the first crimp the hardest bit). 7a+ does seem a bit mean.

[dave]

HFC jumpstart is a fine problem, 7a+ is fair.

On the traverse, i never tried it before, but it was never regarded as a soft 7b+ as far as I know pre-breakage, and the broken hold at the crux turned from a big inch-wide faux-jug into a halfinch rounded crimp, not to mention the good positive hold at the end of the traverse also used to be a finger jug, you could use that instead of openhanding that sloper). The main crux hold you have to use whatever the sequence really, i'd be amazed if it didn't effect the difficulty (lose a jug, gain a rounded crimp), although i've only been on it post-breakage.

[Paul B]

yeah but with all of the heel-i-ness....?

[dave]

sorry, were heels not invented prior to the hold breaking?

[T_B]

On the traverse, i never tried it before, but it was never regarded as a soft 7b+ as far as I know pre-breakage, and the broken hold at the crux turned from a big inch-wide faux-jug into a halfinch rounded crimp, not to mention the good positive hold at the end of the traverse also used to be a finger jug, you could use that instead of openhanding that sloper). The main crux hold you have to use whatever the sequence really, i'd be amazed if it didn't effect the difficulty (lose a jug, gain a rounded crimp), although i've only been on it post-breakage.

Not sure what you mean by the crux hold. If you mean the crux hold where the knee bar is, it's bigger than half an inch to be fair.

For tallies, you don't even use those holds on the lip at the end as you can lank to the fiinishing crimpers from under the roof.

Shorties who were pulling on the broken edge, sloper and crimpy sloper next to it had good heals and good conditions yesterday so perhaps that makes some difference?

[Paul B]

sorry, were heels not invented prior to the hold breaking?

no but I thought the fanny ish sequence that has now been perfected makes the climbing a whole lot easier.

[T_B]

the real problem starts sitting on the crimp

Gosh Paul I knew you had strong fingers but you must also have extremely powerful buttocks!

sorry, were heels not invented prior to the hold breaking?

no but I thought the fanny ish sequence that has now been perfected makes the climbing a whole lot easier.

That heavily chalked pinch sidepull that Ru is holding in the bouldering guide? We didn't use that at all.

[Paul B]

now that is confusing?

I showed my sequence to a mate last week sometime and Jon decided to prove the virtues of his new imrpoved sequence by pulling on, placing both heels and waving his hand around before taking the pinch sidepull pebble hold.

[dave]

not sure what you mean by kneebar. whatever size the broken hold in the middle is (I didn't have my vernier callipers with me) its still a fraction of the size it used to be. yesterday probably was very good nick, I did it again quickly on saturday, but I still think its harder than virtually every other 7b+ on balance. Given the amount of crack you must be cooking to think HFC is hard 7b I'd be inclined to not take your grade assessment as gospel in this case tom...

I don't use the Ru hold either, at least not on the R-L version.

Hang on, people are now telling me theres a lanky beta i could be using at the end of a classic ~17 move right-left 7cish traverse, that isn't the original sequence. I hope everyone appreciates the irony of this.

[Andy B]

Hang on, people are now telling me theres a lanky beta i could be using at the end of a classic ~17 move right-left 7bish traverse, that isn't the original sequence. I hope everyone appreciates the irony of this.

 

Although you probably lanked some other moves anyway.

[T_B]

now that is confusing?

I showed my sequence to a mate last week sometime and Jon decided to prove the virtues of his new imrpoved sequence by pulling on, placing both heels and waving his hand around before taking the pinch sidepull pebble hold.

In the middle section I used low left hand and r-heel on big jug to get r-hand pocket, then put left heel on (double heels) to reach into l-hand pockety crack thing (i.e. no sidepull /undercut pebble hold). Bring r heel out and put in left kneebar. Then reach to l hand edge above pockety crack thing. then r-heel into dish with knee bar still in, then match edge and/or cross through for jugs.

[T_B]

Hang on, people are now telling me theres a lanky beta i could be using at the end of a classic ~17 move right-left 7cish traverse, that isn't the original sequence. I hope everyone appreciates the irony of this.

To be fair the only one of us who actually linked it didn't lank it and also thought 7b+.

[(woz)]

The standup to HFC is a bit of a non problem, non? the real problem starts sitting on the crimp with the obvious broken bit? I was speaking to Ned about this and they'd been trying it the rockover crimpy way (you'll see the holds if you go), by using a heel toe lock in the jugs out left to reach from the broken edge to the nasty little holds, releasing it and rocking over to glory/failure.

Are you talking about Westwood?

For what it's worth I can't do HFC or the one to its left. My sequence on the traverse is about 3 moves long and piss.

[Bonjoy]

Surprised I missed a kneebar!
Now I've got the traverse totally wired it feels no harder than 7b+ and am inclined to change the grade back on my list if that's the majority view. The way I do it now is probably easier than the way I used to do it before the breakage.
Tom - Not sure how I ended up leaving rope and boots at the crag. I was a bit cold and delirious by the end of play and had bits of kit scattered all over the place. Has Nic got both of them or just the boots?
Paul - This is 2009, you are allowed to use all parts of your body to climb with these days, including your brain. Calling heelhooks 'fannyish', 'gay', 'faggotry' or other terms for homosexuality, went out with bad lycra, high pitched southern acsents and flat-tops.

[Stubbs]

Paul - This is 2009, you are allowed to use all parts of your body to climb with these days, including your brain. Calling heelhooks 'fannyish', 'gay', 'faggotry' or other terms for homosexuality, went out with bad lycra, high pitched southern acsents and flat-tops.

Word - was cursing my lack of stealth rubber covered knee pad last weekend - can't wait to pick up one of those bad boys in the states - if it's good enough for DG it's good enough for me!

[T_B]

Has Nic got both of them or just the boots?

He got em both. We thought the way in which the rope was simply dangling in a tree, perhaps you'd had some sort of 'incident'?!

Casual 

[Paul B]

Paul - This is 2009, you are allowed to use all parts of your body to climb with these days, including your brain. Calling heelhooks 'fannyish', 'gay', 'faggotry' or other terms for homosexuality, went out with bad lycra, high pitched southern acsents and flat-tops.

its just the obvious way of distinguishing between sequences. I was pointing out that if its graded for the easiest method of doing it then that is by the use of  a lot of 'trickery'.

[Jim]

My 2penth
famous grouse - very conditions dependanty 7c from standing, sitter is log IMHO
terrace - 7c and no more, main reason is that Worm has done it! I still can't do the first move but I haven't tried it very much TBH as its not very inspiring

[mini]

The standup to HFC is a bit of a non problem, non? the real problem starts sitting on the crimp with the obvious broken bit?

Interesting

[Drew]

Do you mean this list?

I was amazed to see that someone else thinks 7a+ for Pressure Drop