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The Golden Path (Read 4392 times)

Bonjoy

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The Golden Path
March 17, 2008, 01:48:26 pm
Bit of a long shot this. Has anyone done this Welford Highball 7c? The arete/roof right of BAW's Crawl/Shine On. Or failling that anyone know Welford enough to get some beta?
A few of us tried it yesterday and progress was made as far as the top of the arete, this bit was hard, perhaps 7b+ in itself, but the next bit seemed even harder and not a little gripping. Seemed like a damn fine prob mind.

dave

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#1 Re: The Golden Path
March 17, 2008, 01:53:45 pm
judge philip banks and ramond van barneveld tried this the other week.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: The Golden Path
March 17, 2008, 01:55:24 pm
Did they have any wise words?

dave

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#3 Re: The Golden Path
March 17, 2008, 02:05:53 pm
not that i remember!

cofe

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#4 Re: The Golden Path
March 17, 2008, 02:22:18 pm
seem to remember they returned to the plantation chewing wasps.

Bonjoy

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#5 Re: The Golden Path
March 18, 2008, 09:04:12 am
This was Mawson's high point. Above here there looked to be a poor crimp in the blackness on the arete, a rubbish slopey crimp on the face, then the break and not much for feet, except perhaps a commiting left foot heel-toe under the roof

Andy B

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#6 Re: The Golden Path
March 18, 2008, 10:17:42 am
seem to remember they returned to the plantation chewing wasps.
We came back to Brass Monkeys to see if you could fail on it from any higher up the slab.

There was a horrific biting wind up at Golden Path so we didn't try it for long, and didn't even get to the top of the arete. (We weren't even sure if that was Golden Path that we were trying). So no extra knowledge I'm afraid. I did think that it was a very good problem though, and would be keen to try it properly. Didn't John Welford top rope or shunt it first? If so it's bound to be fairly commiting up there.

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: The Golden Path
March 18, 2008, 11:12:59 am
That would make sense. All the obvious ways of doing the next move seemed well commiting to throw yourself at. One to try with a big team and without bitter cold wind (we had that too).

El Mocho

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#8 Re: The Golden Path
April 16, 2008, 03:20:39 pm
Here is the beta for you BonJ:

Do the start to the 'break' under the roof, instead of going with the R hand to the crimp on the wall (as in pic) have R hand in break under roof (just R of the L hand hold), put L foot on good hold on top of undercut and go over with L hand to the crimp. Swap feet and get L foot heal-toe under roof (where L hand was, make sure heal is on a little pebble) get a ok pebble with R, do a little move of the R foot R wards round the arete(commiting), get top, get toilet roll, wipe bottom.

Did it on my own today - even Klem had buggered off home with my mum so no dog spot. Felt somewhat scared on the top bit but after having a little talk to myself whilst holding the pebble I pushed on. I didn't quite poo myself though.

Felt OK for 7c, it was good.

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: The Golden Path
April 16, 2008, 03:35:39 pm
Here is the beta for you BonJ:

Do the start to the 'break' under the roof, instead of going with the R hand to the crimp on the wall (as in pic) have R hand in break under roof (just R of the L hand hold), put L foot on good hold on top of undercut and go over with L hand to the crimp. Swap feet and get L foot heal-toe under roof (where L hand was, make sure heal is on a little pebble) get a ok pebble with R, do a little move of the R foot R wards round the arete(commiting), get top, get toilet roll, wipe bottom.

Did it on my own today - even Klem had buggered off home with my mum so no dog spot. Felt somewhat scared on the top bit but after having a little talk to myself whilst holding the pebble I pushed on. I didn't quite poo myself though.

Felt OK for 7c, it was good.
Fine effort! First ground up ascent as far as I know.  :thumbsup:
 I thought it would involve a scary heel-toe.

Sloper

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#10 Re: The Golden Path
April 18, 2008, 09:38:48 pm
And no sneaky attempts at TYF? I'm disappointed ps I tried GW and got throughly spanked on it, glad to know as it's 7c I don't have to go back and try harder.

cowboyhat

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#11 Re: The Golden Path
February 03, 2014, 12:53:05 pm
We tried this yesterday with little success; couldn't do the first move.

I did eventually get up to where Mawson is in the above picture once; couldn't get back up there.

The time I did the move involved a LF toe hook out far left under the roof, bumping RF higher to be able to eventually slap into the crimp under the roof with LH. This sequence wasn't very pleasant and didn't really seem in the spirit of climbing the arete.

Can Bonjoy / El Mocho shed any light on what goes on with merely getting off the ground? Never mind the top bit...

How did Mawson get up there in the photo?

Its seemed like there might be a great problem hiding up there somewhere in the hurricane.

Bonjoy

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#12 Re: The Golden Path
February 03, 2014, 01:02:25 pm
I've done the lower bit two ways. Climbing the arete direct is the nicer way but harder, can't recall the details unfortunately as it was ages ago. The other way sounds similar to you - LF deep upside down foothook (aka gayleg) and a long lock to the crimp under roof, maybe with some RF bouncing.
I've also seen it done further left again - this seems even less like cricket.

 

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